Easy is not the word. First, go to any pepboys, autozone etc... and by 75wx90 gear oil. I use mobile one, and it is about 10 bucks and comes in a tall thin bottle.

Then, if you look at the hub, you will see a hex bolt. you undo that and that will have you looking into the gears. On the very bottom, there is another bolt that is probably a 17mm and you undo that and completely drain it.

You need to remove the crush washer from that bolt and get a new one and put it on. You can get that at the dealer. Put the bottom bolt back on and torque to 16.5 ft/lbs. Then fill up the top until the fluid is up to the opening. I do it on a lift, spin the rim and it will suck in the gear oil. Fill back up until it is just about at the top and put that cap back on and tighten down. You are done. If you don't have a jack, then have a board under your kickstand to level the bike up some for when it drains. After you fill it up, you can then put the top cap on, roll the bike forward a few feet, and then open the cap and add the last little bit.

 

$100 to change final drive fluid?!!!!

Holy crap, do what BP said and save yourself $87, plus your bottle of gear oil will last you at least 8 changes.

 

That is exactly what I needed to know. Thanks Big Papa! I couldn't believe that the dealer wanted so much, so I called another dealership and they told me the same thing.

 

Yea, that is a major rip off. When I do oil changes for people who are not friends, I offer to do the hub for free if they bring the oil. It is a total of 10 minutes out of my time and I do it while the regular oil is still draining. Dealerships really need to learn how to sweeten their overpriced service by offering a few perks that don't cost them anything. They should charge you $10 for the oil and do the labor for free.

 

Jmitchell,

Correction...A quart bottle will get you 3 changes..

 

Sorry I started seeing red, thinking about having to pay $100 for a fluid change. I got a little crazy.

 

Diff fluid

:bigthumbsup:

 

My bike is due for a fluid change. I have the dealer do the oil change, but they want $100 just to change out the fluid in the rear hub.

That's F***ing rediculous. They come by the term STEALER honestly I'd say.

I used Amsoil in mine. I'd suggest a synthetic over dyno.

 

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.

 

how often

how often or what mileage should this fluid be changed???

 

I've heard varying stories about differential intervals. I do mine every other oil change, or 7000 miles.

-Josh

 

I've heard varying stories about differential intervals. I do mine every other oil change, or 7000 miles.

-Josh

:agree: I did mine every oil change in the beginning, but now do it every other also.

 

I do my oil changes at 2500 miles oil and gear oil Motul 5100 in the engine and Motul 300 syn in the rear. Ya I know its to soon on changes, but, O-Well, I'm a maintence NUT. :joke::bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:

 

I used to do mine every oil change, then realized it was a big waste. I then did it every other oil change and noticed the oil looked brand new, smelled brand new and felt the same. So, I then went to about every 10k.

The manual states to replace at 1k. then only inspect every 12k and replace if necessary. So, after your first 1 or 2 times, simply wasting money if you do it under 10k. Not that it is much money though...just saying.

So, the point is...do it at 1k. After that, check it every 12 and if you want to do it before then, or every oil change....that is up to you and no big deal at all.

 

I have been doing mine with every oil change and didnt notice any changes like BP said. I have now gone to doing this with every other oil change just because I figured since I am changing the oil it literally takes 10min from start to finish, and the majority of the time is just waiting for it all to drain out.

 

There is oil in there???
I always wondered why that bolt was there.

 

Probably loose metal too if you haven't changed it lol!

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And the first couple times you'll get a lot of metal filings out of it, so don't be surprised. At the first change I actually dumped a couple ounces of new oil in with the drain still out to flush it out a little. You have enough in the bottle to do that and still get 3 good changes out of it.

I change mine about every other oil change now.

 

That is for sure I changed mine in a black pan in the sun and first thought I must have a barring out as shiney as it was but didn't stick to a maginet... so filled it took it for a drive came home and changed it agian.... :doorag:

Amsoil Gear lube sae 75W-90 synthetic.... :bigthumbsup:

 

I wouldn't pay $100 for the dealer to do an oil, filter, and rear end oil change even if the price of all the oil and filter were included, let alone paying $100 just to have them do only the diff oil. That's ridiculous! You can do it yourself for $5 and 15 minutes of your time....

 

Actually, if the dealer let me out the door for $100 with it all done...not a bad price.

You figure that in all fairness to the dealer, it is a total of about 1/2 hour job including the oil check. That is about $50 labor. Oil and filter is $30 so you are about $80 into it give or take. If you don't have the capability or know how to do it, that isn't bad.

 

The owner must love his servive dept!

OMG!!!!!!!

Did you ask them, to please change it twice All kidding aside, did they look you right in the eye, and say that? Or were they Smiling Did you tell them you weren't Dick Chainey, and to go Pound Sand:dontknow:

GL-5 is your spec for the oil needed. And our advice is only $50 bucks LOL
This tread blew me awayop:

 

I finally got around to doing this. It would have been a really quick job, except for two things. First, I turned the tire while draining the fluid in order to get it all out. In the process I knocked over the bowl that was holding the drained fluid and spilled it all over the garage. (I had the bowl sitting on a the 2x4 that I use to get the bike up high enough for the jack). So I raced around like a madman getting paper towels and cleaning up the fluid before it soaked in. After getting it mostly cleaned up, I had a hard time getting the crush washer off the bolt. Finally I just laid the bolt flat on the ground and against a board and tapped a screwdriver underneath it until I could get the dikes in to cut it. After that it was easy.

I rode it 8 miles to work today and didn't notice any drips yet. I'll give it a better look when I get home. As usual, thanks again for all your help.

 

in the owners manual it says to use a hypoid 90 weight..i work at napa auto parts and we sell valvoline part#831 80w90 recommended for all limited slip and hypoid applications..its so easy to do every three months when i change my oil i change my gear oil..and i use valvoline part#740 10w40 motorcycle oil..i don't use synthetic cause i change my fluids every three months regardless if i have 5 miles or 3000 miles being ive i worked in auto parts for so long i believe in three months or 3000 miles..good luck..:bigthumbsup:

 

FINAL GEAR OIL
• Keep the motorcycle upright.
• Place an oil pan under the final gear case.
• Remove the filler cap
and drain plug
to drain oil.
• Tighten the drain plug
to the specified torque. Pour the
specified oil (SAE 90 hypoid gear oil with GL-5 under API
classification) through the filler hole until the oil level reaches
the filler hole.
• Refit the filler cap
#Final gear oil drain plug: 23 N·m (2.3 kgf-m, 16.5 Ib-ft)
% Final gear oil: 200 – 220 ml
(6.8/7.0 – 7.4/7.7 US/Imp oz)

 

View attachment 33439

just dont drink it...