[cbxer55]

I have one inch lower risers. No one makes a one inch shorter cable. LOL!!

Fortunately the stock length works just fine for shorter risers.

 

[Fate9176]

Ok all,

As noted in my post a little bit ago, I went ahead and replaced my cable on my 2011. I just bought mine off ebay. Below is the link to the item.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro...els-64-0254/163825353218?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Don't mind the picture, that isn't how the cable looks when it comes. I have stock risers, so I didn't need to add a + to the cable. I also had a hard time with the pictures, so I just winged it. It was pretty easy. I don't have pictures, but I can explain it, it's pretty easy to do. I found it easier to thread the cable with the front light removed, on a 2011, it is easy to remove the unit, just 4 bolts on the back. Not sure about the other models.

1. remove the light
2. remove the side cover that covers the clutch. On mine it was just 3 bolts and it comes right off. From here, you can see the clutch cable attachment.
3. remove cable from hand lever. You will need to remove the tightening bolt and take it off, it will need to go on the new cable. Once you unscrew it all the way from the lever, it is easy to see how to slip the cable out, then it just falls right off.
4. There is a small bracket holding the clutch cable to the frame, down under the engine cover. Only one bolt holds this bracket on, easy to remove. Once removed, you need to remove it off the old clutch cable, just unscrew the top nut off the cable and you can slide it off.
5. Remember how far the bottom bolt is screwed in on the old cable, you will want to try and duplicate this distance on the new cable. When you see the old cable, you will understand what I mean.
6. Move the bracket to the new cable and screw the top bolt back on. Then just put the end wire in the same spot in the clutch and screw the mounting bracket back on.

****Stringing the new cable was the trickiest. What I found to be the easiest was push the new cable up from the bottom until you can see it next to your radiator fan. The old clutch cable run's along this fan as well. When I got the new cable next to the radiator and next to the old cable, I just took some electrical tape and taped the new cable to the old cable. Then you can push it up and pull at the same time from the top and you can push both cables up through the fairing on the handle bar. I just grabbed the new cable and removed the tape, then pulled the old cable down and out. I didn't have to adjust anything or move any thing. Adjusted the tension on the lever with the screw just a bit and I was good to go.

I hope this helps explain a bit for anyone that had questions.

 

[cbxer55]

Usually what is done is a piece of string is attached to the top of the old cable before you pull it through from the bottom. Then tie the string to the top of the new cable and pull it through from the top.

Remove the light? I replaced my cable on my 06 in 2013, the original broke while out riding. Rode it home sans clutch. Replaced it easy enough. Never removed the light.

I had to make numerous adjustments on mine while out riding to get it exactly where I like it, the sweet spot. Haven't touched it again since.

 

[Fate9176]

Usually what is done is a piece of string is attached to the top of the old cable before you pull it through from the bottom. Then tie the string to the top of the new cable and pull it through from the top.

Remove the light? I replaced my cable on my 06 in 2013, the original broke while out riding. Rode it home sans clutch. Replaced it easy enough. Never removed the light.

I had to make numerous adjustments on mine while out riding to get it exactly where I like it, the sweet spot. Haven't touched it again since.

Ahhh, haha, that makes sense, LOL. That probably would of been a little easier. haha. Yeah, I just took it for a ride and had to return home to make a few adjustments. To much slack in the cable and I didn't want to unscrew the tension bolt on the lever to far. I think I got it where I want it thou.

 

[cbxer55]

Yeah, like I said, took me maybe four adjustments to get it in the sweet spot. First two a bit more than two turns either way. Than the last two a turn or less trying to hit the sweet spot. Hasn't changed since, and that was back in 2013.

My original cable let go almost exactly at the 20,000 mile mark. Cable lulled out of the barrel at the bottom end while about two miles from home. Turned into a neighborhood behind my pad and floated all the STOP signs to get home. Managed to click into neutral on the downhill to my place, coasted down the street, hit the garage remote and coasted right on in. Had the cable changed in an hour. Have a spare under the seat, along with the prerequisite four foot piece of string.

 

[mleiter]

Hey all. Just replaced the cable on my 2009 this morning. I used the original guide posted. It was a great help. The fishing line trick is a must. I didn't have to remove the light or any panels. Just carefully tied the line to the old cable at the lever end. Then pulled out the old cable from the bottom. Once the old cable is out, untie the fishing line and tie it to the new cable. Feed the cable up from the bottom. Keeping tension on the line you, then reach with your fingers to guide the cable back up. It took a little bit of figeting but I was able to get the cable all the way in in about 10 minutes. The rest was easy. Just be sure to use strong fishing line so there's no worry of snapping it. I used 30lbs test and had no problems.

 

[Zoom]

I actually used a piece of paracord to do mine, and that same piece is tied around the spare clutch cable I keep under the seat in case it is needed again.

Glad you got it on without removing the cowl. I replaced my stock one with a Barnett cable years ago and I think the housing on it was stiffer, as I had a hard time getting it to lay in tight enough to the frame neck to get the neck cover to snap back on once the cable was installed.

I'm sure you've read it on here, but make sure you leave adequate slack in the cable lever. That's the number one reason most fail early is too little slack, which means the engine is pulling on it under acceleration.

 

[Joe RC51]

I actually used a piece of paracord to do mine, and that same piece is tied around the spare clutch cable I keep under the seat in case it is needed again.

Glad you got it on without removing the cowl. I replaced my stock one with a Barnett cable years ago and I think the housing on it was stiffer, as I had a hard time getting it to lay in tight enough to the frame neck to get the neck cover to snap back on once the cable was installed.

I'm sure you've read it on here, but make sure you leave adequate slack in the cable lever. That's the number one reason most fail early is too little slack, which means the engine is pulling on it under acceleration.

Any movement of the motor pulling the cable isn't going to pull it any harder than your hand pulling the lever. The clutch would merely start to disengage , it's not going to break a cable , it simply doesn't work like that.

 

[cbxer55]

I keep a piece of black paracord in my Corbin Smuggler, along with a spare cable. Could change it out on the road if necessary. Had to put a new cable on mine late last year. So it's on it's third cable now. Just recently turned over 38,000 miles.

 

[cbxer55]

Any movement of the motor pulling the cable isn't going to pull it any harder than your hand pulling the lever. The clutch would merely start to disengage , it's not going to break a cable , it simply doesn't work like that.

Maybe, maybe not. Recently I came upon a guy riding a Nine, his clutch lever had zero free-play. It was tighter than I'd ever felt. Took two turns of the spinner just to get a little free-play at the lever. I think even you would agree, that with it that tight, the clutch was not completely engaging, and the cable was under tension full time. The main reason for free-play is to make sure the clutch is fully engaging and not slipping. Secondary is giving the clutch cable a break from being under tension. My first cable didn't "break", it pulled out of the barrel on the bottom. Second one was badly frayed at the lever end. I was out riding, clutch started feeling "vague". Rode it home, pulled back the boot, and said "Holly shit, I barely made it home". It was hanging on by two strands only.

I've got my current cable set so that when riding serenely, there is always free-play in the lever. Only when accelerating hard does the slack vanish. I don't ride my bike like I stole it all the time, so that works for me. It's a happy medium, as I don't like it with too much free-play. The bike tends to try to keep moving at stop lights if kept in gear. SO typically, at long nap-inducing stops, I kick it into neutral.

 

[Joe RC51]

Maybe, maybe not. Recently I came upon a guy riding a Nine, his clutch lever had zero free-play. It was tighter than I'd ever felt. Took two turns of the spinner just to get a little free-play at the lever. I think even you would agree, that with it that tight, the clutch was not completely engaging, and the cable was under tension full time. THe main reason for free-play is to make sure the clutch is fully engaging and not slipping. Secondary is giving the clutch a break from being under tension. My first cable didn't "break", it pulled out of the barrel on the bottom. Second one was badly frayed at the lever end. I was out riding, clutch started feeling "vague". Rode it home, pulled back the boot, and said "Holly shit, I barely made it home". It was hanging on by two strands only.

I've got my current cable set so that when riding serenely, there is always free-play in the lever. Only when accelerating hard does the slack vanish. I don't ride my bike like I stole it all the time, so that works for me. It's a happy medium, as I don't like it with too much free-play. The bike tends to try to keep moving at stop lights if kept in gear. SO typically, at long nap-inducing stops, I kick it into neutral.

My point was that the maximum tension on the clutch cable , adjusted correctly or not , is not going to be any more than the pressure of the clutch springs.

 

[Zoom]

Any movement of the motor pulling the cable isn't going to pull it any harder than your hand pulling the lever. The clutch would merely start to disengage , it's not going to break a cable , it simply doesn't work like that.

I 100% agree with that. But the logic on here for years on why we break so many cables is that without some slack the motor is pulling on it. Granted, it's not pulling hard enough that it's going to break it, but if it's constantly pulling on it under power it just adds more wear to it.

With that being said, and a big knock on wood, I've never broken a cable on mine in 14 years and right at 40,000 miles on it. I replaced the stock cable with a +3 Barnett cable probably 10-11 years ago and it's still on it. Back when Barnett made cables for these everyone started buying them, then they had problems breaking so Barnett quit making them. I think most of the reason they break is lack of lube and having free movement at the pivot in the lever. If the barrel in the lever can't pivot easily it flexes the cable every time the lever is pulled. Too much of that and the cable breaks. I take the clutch lever off every year in the spring, clean the recess the barrel sits in, lube it, and reinstall.

 

[Joe RC51]

I 100% agree with that. But the logic on here for years on why we break so many cables is that without some slack the motor is pulling on it. Granted, it's not pulling hard enough that it's going to break it, but if it's constantly pulling on it under power it just adds more wear to it.

With that being said, and a big knock on wood, I've never broken a cable on mine in 14 years and right at 40,000 miles on it. I replaced the stock cable with a +3 Barnett cable probably 10-11 years ago and it's still on it. Back when Barnett made cables for these everyone started buying them, then they had problems breaking so Barnett quit making them. I think most of the reason they break is lack of lube and having free movement at the pivot in the lever. If the barrel in the lever can't pivot easily it flexes the cable every time the lever is pulled. Too much of that and the cable breaks. I take the clutch lever off every year in the spring, clean the recess the barrel sits in, lube it, and reinstall.

The reason most clutch cables on any bike break at the barrel is because the barrel isn't lubricated and able to rotate in the lever.

 

[Zoom]

The reason most clutch cables on any bike break at the barrel is because the barrel isn't lubricated and able to rotate in the lever.

Exactly, which is why I said what I said above about removing and lubing mine. There have been a few that broke on the lower end but far and away most start breaking strands at the barrel.

 

["Hunter"]

m109_asmc_005865_Clutch_Cable_Play_Adjustment-email-print

 

[cbxer55]

The reason most clutch cables on any bike break at the barrel is because the barrel isn't lubricated and able to rotate in the lever.

That is not the reason why the my stock cable simply and cleanly pulled out of the lower barrel at 20,000 miles. There was no fraying on the cable at any point. It would've lasted a lot longer if it hadn't done that.