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How to install Hydraulic clutch

32K views 73 replies 31 participants last post by  Wileypdf  
#1 · (Edited)
Remove engine side cover and loosen cable nuts , 12mm

loosen bracket bolt 10mm

uninstall clutch cable and make wire for it


pull the old clutch cable make wire follow it
Then hook new oil hose up
if you use riser extension under 2"
Please don't follow old way, Don't cross the motor mount
by-pass it and go the engine case bottom
Our oil hose is 155cm , it can fit stock length and 1" riser extension

ATT this holder , cross it.

make sure this posittion

remove the bar end chrome cover and uninstall grip with glass clearner

remove 2 bottom bolts

ready to remove stock lever with mount



this is new lever use bolt , add butter oil

install lever with master cylinder
Don't forget put the brass ball in it

insert the bolt in lever

tighten the 10mm nut
and install the lever switch(ignition)

install the master cylinder in handle bar
fit the old position

the bar bottom have a hole, this is switch assy check point.

install the grip back

install the bolt and washers with oil hose connector

tighten them 13mm and 14mm tools

remove the swingarm bolt 10mm

maybe you have to use hammer to push the swingarm out.

check the swingarm head to fit slave cylinder head

make sure swingarm could be swing very smooth

remove the shaft swingarm 10mm bolt and make a sign for it.
when you install it back use, you can setting in correct position.

remove it

remove those 2 bolts , 8mm
you got install slave bracket it back in 10 mins.
because the oil will be leaking

when you install swingarm back, it have a check point.
you must make it in correct position.
This is hard to install it back, you need screwdriver help you for it.
then pull the spring to hook swingarm.

tighten the slave cylinder top nuts 13mm

How to drain air out hydrualic, Please follow the user manual or ask other member.
use the compressior can be help you easy install and save a lot time.

This is a small "star" winch for drining air.
after all air is drained, tighten it and use water clean this part

use the cable tie for oil hose position.
Don't let the shaft linker hit it.

tighten the bolt 8mm back and mounting the cable in old location.

inspect all detail and make sure all bolts and nuts tighted
Image

You can try this way for make your handle bar more clean

pull the harness switch connector pins out

there are 2 pins from stock harness side
Image

New switch have 3 pins jump the middle
only use front and rear

finished

use the 3M BUTYL WINDSCREEN SEALANT for waterproof

Check it working then install side cover back



 
#7 ·
Great write up, only one thing left out......buying the Hydraulic clutch... when, where, how much, ect.
 
#9 ·
Amazing work as usual Rainey!:bigthumbsup::doorag:
 
#13 · (Edited)
ATT: This Suzuki C90 master cylinder painted is same with VZR1800 '09-On brake master cylinder.
If your bike is 06-08 , the paint color is a little different with right side brake master cylinder.
but Their master cylinder cap is same. you can order M109R master chrome cap exhchange it.

Image
 
#19 · (Edited)
What is total cost for everything required as listed below? Can we order everything from you? ???

So it's $199.00 for just the cylinder. We would have to order the these three parts.
Cutch Mater Cylinder ASSY: 59800-10F20 cost?
Clutch Lever ASSY: 57500-10F10 cost?
SWITCH ASSY: 57560-10F00 cost?
 
#20 ·
Cutch Mater Cylinder ASSY: 59800-10F20
Clutch Lever ASSY: 57500-10F10
SWITCH ASSY: 57560-10F00

I bought those 3 item is same with everybody from US. and I don't have any discount.
those 3 item cost about USD220.0 , but after add international shipping then return to US.
The cost is too high. My location is in Taiwan.
 
#21 ·
will do soon

just waiting for my Rivco risers and tach. relocator kit. Will add this kit to my wish list for later this summer. have to work a few OT days to get the funds But will Definitly be ordering the kit for 2-3 riser soon. Real nice How to also. Great job Rainey!!!!!!!!!
 
#26 · (Edited)
Nice video Rainy, this is definitely on my mods to do list, thanks for posting. Can I also make a few suggestions that may help in the future. First by good practice it is recommend to cover the paint when working with brake fluid. A little inadvertent drop will ruin your day pretty quickly on this paint! And when pulling the cable you should pull from the top down so that you don't scuff the show finish of the upper exposed portion of the cable/hose. Just thinking out loud I guess:dontknow:
 
#28 · (Edited)
RE-Design rod connector

We re-design the slave cylinder rod connector.
Then you don't need remove release arm when you install this kit.
After you finished all upper staff(master cylinder , lever ,switch, Please check this post history)
We suggest go to motorcycle shop that doing this kit install.

1.
Check the cable and slave cylinder best angle.
Then Tighten hydraulic cable connector

2.Drain air out
Image


3.Use the wrench turn the release arm down and install the pin to connector.
PS. This space is very small. You may need other people help you keep turn the wrench.
Image


4.Tighten the bracket bolts
Image


5.Install clip R pin.
Image


6.Push down release arm by hand and adjust slave cylinder position(up or down).
Image


7. Drain air again and tighten all bolts. Then use water clean all you did.

8.After check slave cylinder is vertical then use cable tie clamp hydraulic cable on frame.

Image

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#30 ·
just finished installing mine but now i have a problem.

after i bleed the system my lever will not compress. the shaft on the slave cylinder stays in. if i open the bleeder screw the lever will compress and the slave shaft will release. once i tighten the bleeder screw i am able to compress the lever once but then it will not compress again and the slave shaft stays in.

what am i doing wrong ?

Image
 
#31 ·
just finished installing mine but now i have a problem.

after i bleed the system my lever will not compress. the shaft on the slave cylinder stays in. if i open the bleeder screw the lever will compress and the slave shaft will release. once i tighten the bleeder screw i am able to compress the lever once but then it will not compress again and the slave shaft stays in.

what am i doing wrong ?

Have you installed it completely on the bike or are you testing it? The arm return spring pulls the rod out, and hydraulic pressure from the master pulls it down. I don't think that has in internal return spring in it.
 
#32 ·
I spoke to Rainey, he says I would have to bleed it before final mounting. Which shouldn't be a problem. Gonna tackle it when I get home. Besides that, this setup is pretty nice. I'm gonna try and video record it so others have an idea of what to do.
 
#37 ·
Can you pull the rod out of the slave with no problem? If you unhook the line from it and cover the fitting on the slave with your finger, you should feel suction on it as you pull the rod out. It could be a piece of debris in the inlet to the slave, so you might try just disconnecting the line and moving the rod in and out to see if something comes out. Brake fluid definitely will, so cover anything painted on the bike.

And that's an odd looking bleeder valve, are you sure that's what it is? It looks more like a flow restrictor. If you loosen it to bleed the slave, where does the air and/or fluid come out?
 
#38 ·
with the bleeder open, i can pump the clutch lever and it works fine. fluid will spray like a geiser. once i close the bleeder the lever will not budge.