[Canuk]

I'm due to replace my clutch hub, part# 21410-48G00. I've long since done the bluey fix. Worked great, but the vibrations slowly came back. I'm going to start over and get a new basket.
Question for those that have replaced their basket before. Did you also replace the "Gear Assembley part#21100-48G01" and the "Disc Pressure part#21462-48G00".
Or did you just replace the basket. Just wondering what other parts are maybe a good idea to replace at the same time. My clutch is fine, so I might put in a new wave washer and seat for good measure.
Click the picture below to expand.

#1 SPACER 21151-48G00
#2 GEAR ASSY 21100-48G01
#3 HUB 21410-48G00
#4 SPRING 21413-48G00
#5 PLATE #1 21413-48G00
#6 PLATE #2 21441-48G10
#7 PLATE #3 21441-48G20
#8 PLATE #4 21441-48G30
#9 PLATE DRIVEN #1 21451-48G00
#10 PLATE DRIVEN #2 21451-48G10
#11 DISC PRESSURE 21462-48G00
#12 SEAT 21471-48G00
#13 WASHER 21472-48G00
#14 BOLT 21482-41G00
#15 NUT 09159-24010
#16 WASHER 09160-25056
#17 WASHER 09160-25056
#18-1 2006-07 WASHER 09164-24006
#18-2 2008-09 WASHER 09164-20008
#19 BEARING 09263-32020
#20 ROD 23110-24F00
#21 ROD L 23111-48G00
#22 PIECE PUSH 23121-41G00
#23 BALL 23122-02FR0

 

[Gramps]

I thought you need #2 replaced to help the oiling and #3 to help the vibration? no?

 

[Canuk]

That's correct. Replacing part#2 will stop the vibrations, as this part contains the springs.
I don't know that Part#3 will help with the oiling though. Some have said they changed how many holes Suzuki drilled in it, but I don't know that for sure.
I also don't know that this new part has fixed any vibration issues because of more holes in it. I'm changing Part#2 to stop the vibrations. I know someone else here has done that, and I was wondering if replacing other parts while I'm at it is a good idea or not.
I will inspect my clutch when its apart to see if anything is worn or not. Is suspect just replacing part#2 is good enough. Along with a new wave washer and plate.

 

[Gramps]

Canuk, I have always respected your posts and opinions and I think if and when I go into the clutch I will also try a new type basket, if there is a new number on it and the hub or pressure plate at the same time. I have some clutch vibration but not enough to bother me,although less would be nice. I also have no shudder from lack of clutch plate lubrication but I'm good with more oiling as well. I am the type of rider that holds the clutch disengaged while waiting for a light which might account for my lack of shuddering but as long as I'm in there a few hundred more dollars for these parts wouldn't bother me if it might "upgrade" my clutch. I have not had a tube nut problem so far nor a cable go on me yet and I am working on 17,000 miles...just my opinion please keep us informed on what you do :bigthumbsup:

 

[Canuk]

Thanks Gramps.
I will let you know how it turns out.

 

[TruckGuy13]

Hey Canuk, any chance I could get your old part #2 and #3 if you replace them? I've been thinking about this vibration issue for a while now and I am contemplating reverse engineering and updating the spring assembly. Seems to me that it should be possible to stiffen up the springs or develop some type of tuned mass damper system to eliminate the 3000-4000 rpm vibration. Let me know if we could work something out.

TruckGuy13

 

[FattAss]

PART NO 3 HAS THE SPRINGS ???? PART 2 IS JUST THE HUB , NO SPRINGS IN THERE ????:dontknow::dontknow::dontknow:

 

[Canuk]

Hey Canuk, any chance I could get your old part #2 and #3 if you replace them? I've been thinking about this vibration issue for a while now and I am contemplating reverse engineering and updating the spring assembly. Seems to me that it should be possible to stiffen up the springs or develop some type of tuned mass damper system to eliminate the 3000-4000 rpm vibration. Let me know if we could work something out.

TruckGuy13

Sure why not. I'll let you know when I change them out. The shipping might cost you a little.

 

[Boogs109]

Canuk, I think you have your 2's and 3's mixed up in your 2nd post, but i'm sure we all know what you meant

I have a quick question...Whats the go with #7-8? Where do they fit in the diagram??

 

[TruckGuy13]

Sure why not. I'll let you know when I change them out. The shipping might cost you a little.

Great! I'd love to take care of that vibration once and for all. Since Suzuki won't do anything, I'd sure like to try.

No problem with the shipping, just send me a pm and we'll work something out.

TruckGuy13

 

[Listan1]

I thought you need #2 replaced to help the oiling and #3 to help the vibration? no?

:agree:
# 3 with some luck will help the vibration issue, as that's what cause the vibrations
# 2 may help with oiling clutch pack, but it is the fix for loose tube nut problem

as for the other parts listed, you only need to replace them as needed

 

[Canuk]

Canuk, I think you have your 2's and 3's mixed up in your 2nd post, but i'm sure we all know what you meant

I have a quick question...Whats the go with #7-8? Where do they fit in the diagram??

Thanks, missed that, but that is what I meant.

Part#6,7, and 8 are the same part, they just have different widths.
You only need one of the three. Which one you buy depends on the overall clutch stack width. You need to measure the stack, then choose the right part.
I can't remember the target width of the stack off the top of my head, but you get the idea.

 

[Boogs109]

Thanks, missed that, but that is what I meant.

Part#6,7, and 8 are the same part, they just have different widths.
You only need one of the three. Which one you buy depends on the overall clutch stack width. You need to measure the stack, then choose the right part.
I can't remember the target width of the stack off the top of my head, but you get the idea.

Sweet, thanks for the info :bigthumbsup:

I checked the service manual and I can't find any mention of stack widths in there. I have to replace my clutch and want the new basket also.

If anyone else can shed some light on part #'s 6, 7 & 8 and the relationship to clutch stack widths it would be muchly appreciated :a18:

Cheers,
Boogs...

 

[Canuk]

I never did find the stack width either. Believe it or not, the dealer I bought the parts from measured the width and told me which one I needed based on the overall width.
I never did remember what the width was. I did order all 3 plates though. That way when they arrived I knew I would have what I needed regardless of width. I just kept the other two for the next install.

Next time I'm in that dealer again, I can ask him. Hopefully you still havn't done your clutch by then.

Most people seem to just order and use part#6 and I think that would likely work in most cases.

I needed a different part# for my install and it works great. The clutch plates I ordered and installed the first time didn't work out so well because I had the wrong width.

Again, I think 9 times out of 10, part#6 is likely going to just be fine. It would be good to get the stack width set up perfectly though.

I think the stack width and getting the right part# for the right width is more important for after market clutch plates rather than stock. I'm just guessing, but I think the stock clutch plates/fibres, are more often going to work with part#6, than some after market plates/fibres.

In any case, replacing your clutch is actually very easy overall. Couple of things to get right. When you remove the clutch cover, number each bolt so you know which hole they go back into. Also, read the manual carefully on how to properly re-adjust your clutch once your new plates/fibres are installed. Don't skip steps, or the order. Otherwise, you will be taking it apart and doing it again. (been there)
I found the hardest part of the whole process was getting the adjustment right after I installed it.
I havn't heard anyone else say that though, so it's probably just me.

Good luck.

 

[Boogs109]

I never did find the stack width either. Believe it or not, the dealer I bought the parts from measured the width and told me which one I needed based on the overall width.
I never did remember what the width was. I did order all 3 plates though. That way when they arrived I knew I would have what I needed regardless of width. I just kept the other two for the next install.

Next time I'm in that dealer again, I can ask him. Hopefully you still havn't done your clutch by then.

Most people seem to just order and use part#6 and I think that would likely work in most cases.

I needed a different part# for my install and it works great. The clutch plates I ordered and installed the first time didn't work out so well because I had the wrong width.

Again, I think 9 times out of 10, part#6 is likely going to just be fine. It would be good to get the stack width set up perfectly though.

I think the stack width and getting the right part# for the right width is more important for after market clutch plates rather than stock. I'm just guessing, but I think the stock clutch plates/fibres, are more often going to work with part#6, than some after market plates/fibres.

In any case, replacing your clutch is actually very easy overall. Couple of things to get right. When you remove the clutch cover, number each bolt so you know which hole they go back into. Also, read the manual carefully on how to properly re-adjust your clutch once your new plates/fibres are installed. Don't skip steps, or the order. Otherwise, you will be taking it apart and doing it again. (been there)
I found the hardest part of the whole process was getting the adjustment right after I installed it.
I havn't heard anyone else say that though, so it's probably just me.

Good luck.

Since they are only $12 each i'll be buying all 3 as well. Won't be doing my clutch for another month or so, so if you do get some more info on the stack widths let me know. I'll also try to dig up some info and we can compare yanky/aussie info.

Thanks again for the info mate :bigthumbsup:

 

[Boogs109]

Since they are only $12 each i'll be buying all 3 as well. Won't be doing my clutch for another month or so, so if you do get some more info on the stack widths let me know. I'll also try to dig up some info and we can compare yanky/aussie info.

Thanks again for the info mate :bigthumbsup:

I can't seem to find anything and don't know any mechanics well enough to get a straight answer.

The only thing that makes common sence to me is that a brand new clutch would use the thinest one, a mid life clutch - the mid sized for adjustment, and the thickest one for a final tightening of the stack before the clutch needs replacing.

Over the last couple of months my clutch has started clattering at idle in neutral, without clutch pulled in, so maybe I need to go to the next thicker part to tighten the stack back up...and come to think of it, I think the shuddering started around the same time.

Does this make sence to others?

Cheers,
Boogs...

 

[V42A9]

Boogs, what Canuk was speaking of and calling stack width is actually the clearance the clutches need when completely assembled. If the clearance is too small the clutch won't disengage properly and burn. If the clearance is too large the clutch won't engage properly and slip, then burn. The clearance is critical for lubrication also. The external adjustment made by the throwout bearing or cable only adjust the release point in relation to the lever not actual clutch engagement. The clutches are boxed or caged within the basket and engage/release within the confines of that enclosed area. Proper clearance is critical.

 

[Zoom]

Over the last couple of months my clutch has started clattering at idle in neutral, without clutch pulled in, so maybe I need to go to the next thicker part to tighten the stack back up...and come to think of it, I think the shuddering started around the same time.

Does this make sence to others?

Cheers,
Boogs...

That rattle has nothing to do with the clutch plates or stacked thickness, it's the springs in the clutch hub rattling. The clutch pressure plate is pressing on the plates any time the lever is out, so they can't rattle. If you pull the lever in and the noise lessens, it's the clutch hub and they all do it.

 

[Snowblind]

The red circled springs in the image below are what is causing the rattling noise...

 

[Scottchman]

I'm due to replace my clutch hub, part# 21410-48G00. I've long since done the bluey fix. Worked great, but the vibrations slowly came back. I'm going to start over and get a new basket.
Question for those that have replaced their basket before. Did you also replace the "Gear Assembley part#21100-48G01" and the "Disc Pressure part#21462-48G00".
Or did you just replace the basket. Just wondering what other parts are maybe a good idea to replace at the same time. My clutch is fine, so I might put in a new wave washer and seat for good measure.
Click the picture below to expand.

#1 SPACER 21151-48G00
#2 GEAR ASSY 21100-48G01
#3 HUB 21410-48G00
#4 SPRING 21413-48G00
#5 PLATE #1 21413-48G00
#6 PLATE #2 21441-48G10
#7 PLATE #3 21441-48G20
#8 PLATE #4 21441-48G30
#9 PLATE DRIVEN #1 21451-48G00
#10 PLATE DRIVEN #2 21451-48G10
#11 DISC PRESSURE 21462-48G00
#12 SEAT 21471-48G00
#13 WASHER 21472-48G00
#14 BOLT 21482-41G00
#15 NUT 09159-24010
#16 WASHER 09160-25056
#17 WASHER 09160-25056
#18-1 2006-07 WASHER 09164-24006
#18-2 2008-09 WASHER 09164-20008
#19 BEARING 09263-32020
#20 ROD 23110-24F00
#21 ROD L 23111-48G00
#22 PIECE PUSH 23121-41G00
#23 BALL 23122-02FR0

I just replaced my Gear Assy., Hub,
#12 Seat
#13 Washer
#19 Bearing
#2 Plate: 21441-48G10 (out of tolerance on flatness)
Disc Pressure: (it had some .003 to .005 grooves in it)
#10 Plate Driven (common to the Disc Pressure)-it had gooves in it
#10 Plate Driven common to the 21441-48G10 #2 Plate.

You are absolutely correct about the "Vibrations slowly come back". The clutch works fine but until the springs are locked into position and that assembly spun balanced prior to installation I think we will continue to experience the Vibrations. JMHO :bigthumbsup: