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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well this is how I did my wheel bearings and it was the first criticism welcomed, as this was the first for me.

 

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Good job. However, this kit is better.

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08...r=8-5&keywords=motorcycle+wheel+bearing+tools

You just slip the collet in, turn it over and put the collet on a block of wood. take the rod through and hammer it in to the slot on the collet. Then, you pull the block of wood out, and put the wheel on 2 blocks of wood so there is nothing under the bearing. Smack the rod and comes right out on one hit.

To put back in, I have this kit and it works great as the perfect size sits on the bearing. It also has the perfect size for the dust seal as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Be...=8-22&keywords=motorcycle+wheel+bearing+tools
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good job. However, this kit is better.

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08...r=8-5&keywords=motorcycle+wheel+bearing+tools

You just slip the collet in, turn it over and put the collet on a block of wood. take the rod through and hammer it in to the slot on the collet. Then, you pull the block of wood out, and put the wheel on 2 blocks of wood so there is nothing under the bearing. Smack the rod and comes right out on one hit.

To put back in, I have this kit and it works great as the perfect size sits on the bearing. It also has the perfect size for the dust seal as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Be...=8-22&keywords=motorcycle+wheel+bearing+tools
Cool thanks for the heads up, purchase the seal drivers thanks. I saw that kit just didn't know how to work it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You're welcome. I use both sides. The tapered side I put down on the bearing. Then I flip it over to lay flat on the dust seal. Real easy.
:bigthumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Great Vid Buddy, 2 things that can help that job, Use the old Bearing as a Drift to get the new in, And the old seal inverted to get the New one in. :bigthumbsup:
Right on brother duly noted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Very nice, I enjoy watching your video's Andy! :bigthumbsup:

When did you realise you never put the brake rotor back on? ;)
Yeah battery was low so wanted to at least show the finish product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)

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Thanks for posting the vid. :bigthumbsup: Bearing removal isn't something I've had to tackle yet.

I was going to buy that same bearing puller, but I was waiting until I needed to remove a bearing first.

I'm not fully understanding why the Motion Pro version is better. Because it doesn't use a slide hammer? It pounds the bearing out from the other side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for posting the vid. :bigthumbsup: Bearing removal isn't something I've had to tackle yet.

I was going to buy that same bearing puller, but I was waiting until I needed to remove a bearing first.

I'm not fully understanding why the Motion Pro version is better. Because it doesn't use a slide hammer? It pounds the bearing out from the other side?
Yeah me either, I brought the one I thought would work the best
Once again, great job Andy. I always bookmark your "how-to" 109 videos . . . much appreciated!
Nice glad to be of service.
 

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Thanks for posting the vid. :bigthumbsup: Bearing removal isn't something I've had to tackle yet.

I was going to buy that same bearing puller, but I was waiting until I needed to remove a bearing first.

I'm not fully understanding why the Motion Pro version is better. Because it doesn't use a slide hammer? It pounds the bearing out from the other side?
The one Andy has, you have to slam the slide hammer. If the bearing is stuck in there, you really have to slam it hard. For the motion pro, you insert that collet in the bearing, and put the wheel, bearing side down on a block of wood. You then insert he long rod through the rim until it sits in the slit in the collet. You then bang it hard with the sledge hammer and that spreads the collet that then grabs the inner race. Then, you simply put the rim on 2 blocks of wood so as that the bearing area has nothing under it. Slam the rod with a hammer once or two times and simply drives out the bearing. I have used both, and the motion pro is by far easier to use. You will understand the first time you slam the heck out of the slide hammer and it doesn't hold and comes out of the bearing.
 

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That makes sense. I definitely see why the Motion Pro is much easier to use. I think I'll try that tool first and see how it goes. Thanks for the advice!
You're welcome. Just did them yesterday on the rear wheel which has 3 bearings. Start to finish was 10 minutes to remove and install the bearings with the motion pro. Obviously that doesn't include wheel removal. Lol
 
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