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1. Remove the seat. Remove the plastic left side panel by removing the button head Allen bolt
securing it at the bottom and the plastic peg securing it on the top, underneath the seat area. The
plastic peg must have the center pushed in, in order to extract it from the plastic panel.

2. Place the Fi2000 control module and harness next to the battery. Feed the Fi2000 wire harness
(except the ground wire), forward through the notch in the front of the battery box, see Figure 1.
Route the wires forward to the left side of the motorcycle and next to the wires at the ECU, which
are now exposed from removing the left side plastic panel.

3. Locate the gray wire with white stripe and the gray wire with black stripe going to the ECU from
the main harness and attach T-taps to both of these wires, see Figure 2. Now locate the orange
wire with white stripe on the sub-harness with the white connector and black rubber cap. Attach a
T-Tap connector to this wire also. Now plug the Fi2000 blade connectors into the matching color
wires on the T-taps.

4. Velcro the Fi2000 module as shown in Figure 1.

5. Attach the black ground wire to the negative post of the battery. Before reinstalling the seat and
side panel, verify connections.

6. Remove the door from the Fi2000 module to expose the LED’s. Verify the wire connections by,
(1), turning on the ignition while watching the 3 LED's. They will all light up and remain on until the
engine is started. This is correct. If there are no lights visible, make sure the side stand is up,
bike is in neutral, clutch is in and handlebar engine switch is set to run. If there are still no lights
visible, re-check that all connectors are fully engaged and the ground wire is connected correctly.
(2), After achieving a steady light from all three LED’s, start the motorcycle; the green light should
now be the only LED on. If all three LED’s are still on after start up, verify the injector connectors
are correctly attached. Reattach the access door when finished and install remaining

The Fi2000 has the ability to efficiently tune the EFI system on your motorcycle for slip-on or full
exhaust systems. It comes pre-set from the factory for popular brand name slip-on mufflers. Both
dyno testing and on-road exhaust gas analysis have been used to develop the best base settings for
drivability and power. Not all slip-on mufflers flow exactly the same. Some eliminate power valves
and others don’t. Some are made with street baffles, others with race or competition baffles. Full
exhaust systems offer even greater variation in construction, features and performance. The Fi2000R
has the ability to tune the EFI system on your motorcycle to any of these exhausts by applying a
logical and systematic approach to altering the base settings supplied with your Fi2000R. These
suggestions should be followed step by step and help you achieve success.
** Only attempt adjustments on a fully warmed engine **

1. Start with the base setting; see Figure 3, even if you have a full exhaust system. Adjust and test
only ONE adjustment pot at a time until you are happy with the result.

2. Start with the left hand or green light pot. This adjustment works either from idle or above idle
(varies with bike) to a R.P.M. of about 5000 (also varies with bike) while the bike is driven at a
steady throttle or slowly increasing throttle. This is the cruise range and is where the emissions
leanness creates issues like choppy on-off throttle application, surging, and backfiring on trailing

3. Turn this pot back to zero, and make one position increases until you feel the best performance in
this range. Do this test a few times to make sure you have it correct.

4. The middle or yellow pot is an engine load- triggered fuel adding adjustment. A rapid increase of
the throttle at any R.P.M. will add additional fuel and as long as that predetermined load is
present, fuel will continue. As engine loads increase in higher gears the acceleration fuel will stay
on longer and be more effective. Starting with the base setting, test ride the motorcycle in 4th or
5th gear and perform moderately fast roll-on throttle from a repeating standard R.P.M. or speed.
Increase the pot one position at a time and stop as soon as you do not feel any improvement.

5. The right hand or red pot is for the fuel setting required when the engine is maximizing its R.P.M.
and power delivery. This pot is similar to the main jet in a carburetor. It will take a combination of
a minimum R.P.M. and a predetermined amount of engine load to initiate this fuel. The
straightaway on a racetrack or an inertia dyno are the best places to set this pot. Full exhaust
systems of high quality construction increase flow characteristics and will increase fuel demands
over our base settings. Also, air filters specifically designed for higher than stock airflow can
create need for higher fuel setting. Try an additional one-position pot setting at a time.
6. Camshaft changes can alter an engine’s volumetric efficiency and create a greater demand on
the engine’s fuel system than the Fi2000 may have the ability to adjust for.
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