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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New member here. Installing an aftermarket exhaust this weekend. Can anyone provide the torque specs, either ft/lbs or N/m, on the exhaust flange bolts?
This forum rocks by the way. :bigthumbsup:
 

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I will look it up later when I am home. You should consider getting a service manual, that way you can get the numbers from "Suzuki" directly vs a person that may be incorrect. It is the only mod that pays you back.

:welcome: to the forum also.
 

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16.5 Ft Lbs is the spec on the mounting bolts. be sure that the flange is seated properly and your gaskets are in good shape. The flanges tend to go up uneven easily and can cause you to have a leak if you run the bolts up unevenly. I went with new gaskets but you can get away with using the old ones over as long as they are again seated properly and in good shape. They are crush type gaskets but have been used over by many here several times without incident.Run the bolts up by hand and with the hex socket and extention before torquing them down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the help, have already purchased new copper crush gaskets. Heard too many different stories of people having/not having gaskets present upon new exhaust installation. Didn't want to take a chance.
Dragsters going on this Sat! :hot: Time to be heard.
 

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Thanks for the help, have already purchased new copper crush gaskets. Heard too many different stories of people having/not having gaskets present upon new exhaust installation. Didn't want to take a chance.
Dragsters going on this Sat! :hot: Time to be heard.
Cbird, so your next post isn't "I have a FI light on, what gives?" make sure you remove the SET valve actuator cam correctly. You MUST hold the cam with a wrench while removing or installing the allen bolt, or you WILL strip the plastic gears inside the actuator. Your only option then will be to tear it apart and try to fix it, or pull a wire off the ECU to disable the light.

Good luck with your install. :bigthumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After hearing all the fuss about the SET (rightfully so I might add), I was extra careful when removing it. Everything went well, pipes are on now and sound awesome. Scary loud at times.
I did notice a decrease in HP/TQ around 3000 rpm and haven't heard of a good fix yet. Looking at either the Big City Thunder Baffles or just going to make my own version since they don't look that hard to make, and it's tough to justify spending $130 on a set of the BCT's.

Any advice?
 

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After hearing all the fuss about the SET (rightfully so I might add), I was extra careful when removing it. Everything went well, pipes are on now and sound awesome. Scary loud at times.
I did notice a decrease in HP/TQ around 3000 rpm and haven't heard of a good fix yet. Looking at either the Big City Thunder Baffles or just going to make my own version since they don't look that hard to make, and it's tough to justify spending $130 on a set of the BCT's.

Any advice?
Did you install any type of fuel management system (like an FI2000 or a PCIII)? Freeing up the air intakes would help too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No fuel/air changes yet. From what I understand a fuel processor won't solve the lost hp problem. Pretty sure my problem is a lack of back pressure from the open pipes. I think that messing with my fuel will either make it too lean/rich and it's really not something I want to deal with

Seems like more than a handful of guys on here are running dragsters with some type of intake (K&N usually) along with an FI2000R, and they are reporting only minimal HP/TQ gains if any.

I think if I can provide these pipes with a little more backpressure, I'll get back the power where I want it, between 2500 and 3500 rpm.
Like I said before, looking at either Big City Thunder baffles or a home made version (they really do look pretty easy to make....)

I got a guy at Midas that says he can bend 2 sections of 2.25" pipe however I want them..........for $15! I'll weld the washer in place and BAM! there's my new baffle
 
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