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Here's my build, 2006 M109R, The Ghost
Welcome to the best motorcycle forum in the world Alpine. Your bike looks AMAZING Bro. Have you considered adding some LEDs to light up the grille area of your bike? I think it's would balance out the lighting throughout your bike. Nevertheless, it looks GREAT Bro. By the way, I'm just down the road a bit from you in Elizabethtown, KY. I hope to meet up with you one day soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Sean.....

All I can say is goose bumps.....drop dead gorgeous! You sir are a bad, bad influence on my wallet lol.

Marty
Thanks Marty! Just doing my part. Had several members here that did the same to me and my bank account. Hahaha! :bigthumbsup:
 

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The Ghost upgrades:
1. Custom white paint job (superwhite)
2. RC component savage wheels and
matching air filters ( filters are for a
Harley Davidson Road King)
Front rim 17x6.25, tire 170/60vr17
Rear rim 18x10, tire 300
3. D&M cycle air filter adapter backing
plates to mount the ait filters
4. Swampworks two-piece Chrome
swingarm
5. Chromed front forks, Upper & Lower
Triple Tree, handlebar risers, accessory
covers, front & rear brake calipers, rear
hub and front & rear rotors
6. Relocated tachometer to top of risers
in a chrome housing
7. Chrome medieval levers and kickstand
8. Diamond cut the heads/jugs
9. RIS design diamond cut grips and foot
pegs (matching set)
10. Progressive front lowering springs
11. 2 inch rear dog bone lowering kit
12. Low and mean Busa kit with irate Grill
13. Integrated rear light assembly
14. Also radiant integrated turn signals
under rear light assembly
15. Hackers Mayhem short exhaust
16. TFI fuel injector module
17. Joe Florida LED lighting kit
18. Front HID headlight
19. Custom seating white alligator and
black ostrich flames
20. Swampworks modified 300 rear tail.
section ( no Steel under tail section)
21. License plate relocation kit rear wheel
 

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The Ghost upgrades:
1. Custom white paint job (superwhite)
2. RC component savage wheels and
matching air filters ( filters are for a
Harley Davidson Road King)
Front rim 17x6.25, tire 170/60vr17
Rear rim 18x10, tire 300
3. D&M cycle air filter adapter backing
plates to mount the ait filters
4. Swampworks two-piece Chrome
swingarm
5. Chromed front forks, Upper & Lower
Triple Tree, handlebar risers, accessory
covers, front & rear brake calipers, rear
hub and front & rear rotors
6. Relocated tachometer to top of risers
in a chrome housing
7. Chrome medieval levers and kickstand
8. Diamond cut the heads/jugs
9. RIS design diamond cut grips and foot
pegs (matching set)
10. Progressive front lowering springs
11. 2 inch rear dog bone lowering kit
12. Low and mean Busa kit with irate Grill
13. Integrated rear light assembly
14. Also radiant integrated turn signals
under rear light assembly
15. Hackers Mayhem short exhaust
16. TFI fuel injector module
17. Joe Florida LED lighting kit
18. Front HID headlight
19. Custom seating white alligator and
black ostrich flames
20. Swampworks modified 300 rear tail.
section ( no Steel under tail section)
21. License plate relocation kit rear wheel
WOW! That's $1.5M in mods :joke:, time for me to step up my game. Good job on your masterpeice!
 

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Next, it was time to deal with the EVAP system / charcoal canister. It is located under the front part of the battery box, directly under the fuse box. It needs to be removed to make room for the compressor for the air ride. There are 2 screws under the fuse box that hold it in place, so both the main fuse and the fuse box for the other circuits have to be removed in order to remove the canister. In the first picture you can see the 2 hoses that connect to it. The way it works, the fuel tank is vented to the canister. The charcoal inside absorbs the fumes, then a second line runs back up to the intake to route the air from the tank back into the motor.

View attachment 322577

The hose from the canister to the intake needs to be removed. I disconnected the hose at the connector where the 2 hose clamps are sitting right above my pair valve block off plate as shown in the picture below. Be sure and keep this hose once it is removed. You will reuse it later.

View attachment 322569

Once the hose is removed, you will see the hose connector. I used a vacuum cap I picked up at the local auto parts store to cap it off.

View attachment 322561

The hose that attaches to the bottom of the tank routes down to a one way valve, then there is a short "U" snapped piece of hose that runs from the valve to the canister. I considered leaving the one way valve attached, but I was unsure if that would be a good idea or not as it is one more point of failure. I chose to remove it. I replaced it with a hose connector like the one pictured above. I then used the hose I removed above to extend this line down to the left side of the bike where the frame and skid plate meet with the rubber boot. My rational was that any fumes that vent out would be farther from the exhaust and other sources of heat.

View attachment 322553

This leaves lots of room for the compressor, air lines, and wiring to be routed.
What about just routing the vent right to the hose that feeds into the throttle bodies. Pros and cons?
 

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2008 M109R, 2016 FJR1300, 1999 VMax
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What about just routing the vent right to the hose that feeds into the throttle bodies. Pros and cons?
@Rush Weaver ,
I suggest you start a new thread under M109 shop talk. This thread had not been updated since 2018, and the author has not logged in here in a long time.

Welcome to the forum! You should also introduce yourself under New Member Introductions.
Cheers!
 
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