I did a search, and while I was able to find several discussions on the subject, I wasn't able to locate a "how to" thread. Have any of you accomplished this procedure and if so, could you post a "how to" or a link? I need to cure my bike's high idle problem. Thanks.
Throttle body sync procedure needed
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Yes, and it says to connect an ISC valve coupler and a mode select switch. I know I don't have these special tools. Are they something you can just make yourself, or do they need to be purchased from Suzuki? I figured there might be someone on this site that's done this procedure without these tools, or they just made something themselves to do it with.
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The Mode Select Switch can be made as described here which is definately "home-made". The diagnostic mode displays any codes the computer has generated plus it puts the SET valve to mid-range. I read somewhere it also sets something in intake side of the engine (maybe the ISC valve).
I don't know about the ISC valve coupler.
I don't know about the ISC valve coupler.
Every time I start my bike up, it idles around 2800 rpm's. It takes right off when I let the clutch out and I love it. If you have high idle, are you idling around 5000 rmps?
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Your idle is high!
I am at 1k usually give or take 100 rpms...
The manual says idle should be 900+/- 100.
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Buy an adjustable power band.
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=30
It makes a huge difference. But, make sure you buy Wii remote straps too, you'll need them after installing the new adjustable power band!
Does it go internally? I am very happy with it idling at 2800. I can let the clutch out on a hill and it takes right off very smooth.Buy an adjustable power band.
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=30
It makes a huge difference. But, make sure you buy Wii remote straps too, you'll need them after installing the new adjustable power band!
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Nope... Plug and play! Enjoy! You will need a 24" pipe wrench, and pipe dope to put it on though! Be very careful!
I really hope you're joking.
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I'm going to reply only with the obvious, which you probably have already done. Check for any vacuum leaks, a vacuum leak is unmetered air that will cause the bike to idle fast. Another thing to try is disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to clear all fuel trim. Did you check the ISC to see if it is sticking? Just some things to check before taking it to the dealer for their proprietory tool hookup. (another pet peeve, seems every manufacturer thinks mechanics can't really fix anything unless they have 'factory' training).
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You must have stock pipes. I hated the one time by bike was idling 400 rpms higher then normal. That would be hella loud if my bike idled at 2800....
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I have to get a couple of those powerbands, will use at least 4 to get the maximum torque possible. Thanks HINK for the great find!!!!!!
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watch out for sharks. don't miss the boat while you're out 'norklin'. :joke:
Kuba diving in the O-chin.
op:op:op:op:
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I was just looking into doing this myself. A friend of mine who has done this on a few of his bikes in the past said you just need a throttle body sync meter. They have digital ones and vacuum (older) ones.
I hanv't looked into it yet, but he said it was quite easy. After reading this thread, I'm now wondering.
In any event, I will follow this thread, and let you know what I find out once I've delved into it.
:tools:
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Found a few threads for other bikes. This is one guy that adjusts his every oil change on his GXSR.
You need a carb sync tool in order to do this, motion pro makes a good one: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/syncpro/
Its kinda easy to explain if you have worked on your bike before.
1) Prop up the tank and remove the air box. Here is the Spark Plug DIY, it tells you how to do remove it:
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114103
2) Unplug the vacuum sensor (SEE PIC). On the bottom of this sensor you will see a piece of tubing, from this tube it will branch off to the throttle bodies, these are your vacuum hoses. Remove the VACUUM hose from each throttle body. FYI There are 2 hoses on each throttle body, the vacuum tube is the LOWER hose.
3) Replace the VACUUM tubes you just unplugged with the tubes from the sync tool, 1 per throttle body.
4) Start the bike, you will have an FI error, its ok, let the bike warm up. Once its warm adjust the idle to around 1500-2000 RPM, using the idle adjustment screw. Furing this entire process try not to REV the bike too hard because you will suck fluid into the throttle body (bad joojoo).
5) Adjust the throttle body using the small GOLD adjustment screw located on the top of the throttle body (SEE PIC). What you want is the vacuum pressures to be even across the tool. So adjust each one to make this happen. If only one cylinder is out of sync, then just adjust that one first. Keep in mind though, if you adjust one the others might move too, so its a balancing act. Dont get frustrated, just keep making small adjustments and eventually they will all even out.
6) Once your done, replace the vacuum tubes and plug in the vacuum sensor, replace the air box and its tubes, put everything back together that you took off. Start the bike again and enjoy.
More threads
I use a Carb-Tune II. NO fluid. Anyone who has used it will swear by it. Real easy to do. Use it twice and you've already saved yourself some money
I still hanv't looked into this for the 9 yet, but I will.
You need a carb sync tool in order to do this, motion pro makes a good one: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/syncpro/
Its kinda easy to explain if you have worked on your bike before.
1) Prop up the tank and remove the air box. Here is the Spark Plug DIY, it tells you how to do remove it:
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114103
2) Unplug the vacuum sensor (SEE PIC). On the bottom of this sensor you will see a piece of tubing, from this tube it will branch off to the throttle bodies, these are your vacuum hoses. Remove the VACUUM hose from each throttle body. FYI There are 2 hoses on each throttle body, the vacuum tube is the LOWER hose.
3) Replace the VACUUM tubes you just unplugged with the tubes from the sync tool, 1 per throttle body.
4) Start the bike, you will have an FI error, its ok, let the bike warm up. Once its warm adjust the idle to around 1500-2000 RPM, using the idle adjustment screw. Furing this entire process try not to REV the bike too hard because you will suck fluid into the throttle body (bad joojoo).
5) Adjust the throttle body using the small GOLD adjustment screw located on the top of the throttle body (SEE PIC). What you want is the vacuum pressures to be even across the tool. So adjust each one to make this happen. If only one cylinder is out of sync, then just adjust that one first. Keep in mind though, if you adjust one the others might move too, so its a balancing act. Dont get frustrated, just keep making small adjustments and eventually they will all even out.
6) Once your done, replace the vacuum tubes and plug in the vacuum sensor, replace the air box and its tubes, put everything back together that you took off. Start the bike again and enjoy.
More threads
I use a Carb-Tune II. NO fluid. Anyone who has used it will swear by it. Real easy to do. Use it twice and you've already saved yourself some money
I still hanv't looked into this for the 9 yet, but I will.
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712 Posts
I would be visiting a different dealer.
Couple of questions. With the object being to get both throttle bodies at the same vacuum level, is there a desired vacuum level you should be shooting for on the first one before you balance them out, or doesn't the amount of vaccum matter as long as they're both the same? And where did you get your Carb-Tune II?
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