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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I have done a bunch of work to my bike over the winter, so I expect there to be some kinks to work out.

That said, I had my rear brake seiz up today.

My pads have been rubbing my rotor since I put it back together.

Now, with 600 miles on it, my rotor has been heated to the point it is blue and when I came to a light today, I shifted down, pulled the clutch in to coast the last few feet to the stop line and it was like I was full on the rear brake.

As it came to a stop, I hear a metal on metal type EEEEEEEEE

I tried to pull forward to the line and stalled it because the rear wheel did not want to move.

After amout 2 minutes at the light, I was able to get it moved off the road with a good deal for force.

I sat there and let it cool down for a while and a guy in a truck stopped and asked if I needed any tools.

I took a wrench and loosened the bleeder bolts to let the fluid out of the claiper.

After that, it would spin free and I limped it home without touching the rear brake again.

It is just about cooled down now, so Up on thelift it goes to diagnose and fix this.

Any thoughts while I am here working on it are welcome.

Wish me luck
 

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brake issue

for one if its gotten that hot would change and flush the fluid. Is the fluid in there the right type? did you change it over the winter? Did you change anything in the rear where your caliper is now mis aligned? may need to shim? (had to that on gsxr when when to rci rim. also had to remake the strut rod that supports the caliper from rotating.) Just a few thoughts
 

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it sounds like the brake fluid is not going back to the reservoir ,,, did you use a line lock while doing your mods, and kink or damage the inside of the brake line or something,,,,it's a start:dontknow:,,,, hope it helps,,,
 

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draggin brake

Well, I have done a bunch of work to my bike over the winter, so I expect there to be some kinks to work out.

That said, I had my rear brake seiz up today.

My pads have been rubbing my rotor since I put it back together.

Now, with 600 miles on it, my rotor has been heated to the point it is blue and when I came to a light today, I shifted down, pulled the clutch in to coast the last few feet to the stop line and it was like I was full on the rear brake.

As it came to a stop, I hear a metal on metal type EEEEEEEEE

I tried to pull forward to the line and stalled it because the rear wheel did not want to move.

After amout 2 minutes at the light, I was able to get it moved off the road with a good deal for force.

I sat there and let it cool down for a while and a guy in a truck stopped and asked if I needed any tools.

I took a wrench and loosened the bleeder bolts to let the fluid out of the claiper.

After that, it would spin free and I limped it home without touching the rear brake again.

It is just about cooled down now, so Up on thelift it goes to diagnose and fix this.

Any thoughts while I am here working on it are welcome.

Wish me luck
pistons in brake caliper are sticking get rebuild kit for caliper first flush system and bleed always use new fluid if fluid has ever been opened and resealded it is containemted Good Luek No Big Problem Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
for one if its gotten that hot would change and flush the fluid. Is the fluid in there the right type? did you change it over the winter? Did you change anything in the rear where your caliper is now mis aligned? may need to shim? (had to that on gsxr when when to rci rim. also had to remake the strut rod that supports the caliper from rotating.) Just a few thoughts
Umm,

Changed everything back there.

However, the caliper floats free and can travel farther than it needs to on both sides of the rotor.

Found no evidence of this issue, but thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
it sounds like the brake fluid is not going back to the reservoir ,,, did you use a line lock while doing your mods, and kink or damage the inside of the brake line or something,,,,it's a start:dontknow:,,,, hope it helps,,,
Brand new line with the downunder bracket.

Sat on the shelf until everything was ready for it so not much of a chance for this.

Thanks though
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
pistons in brake caliper are sticking get rebuild kit for caliper first flush system and bleed always use new fluid if fluid has ever been opened and resealded it is containemted Good Luek No Big Problem Steve
Ding Ding Ding

I pulled the caliper and the pistons are not moving freely back into the caliper.

had it chromed and did the rebuild.

new seals but the same pistons.

I am going to pull it appart and see what the problem is inside there.
 

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The only time I ever had problems with a rear rotor seizing was when I still had air in the line...and I'm told bleeding the rear brakes with a down under kit can be a bitch.
 

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Ding Ding Ding

I pulled the caliper and the pistons are not moving freely back into the caliper.

had it chromed and did the rebuild.

new seals but the same pistons.

I am going to pull it appart and see what the problem is inside there.
Easiest way to get it apart once you have it on the bench is to:
- remove the pads.
- Place a shim in the caliper. I usually use a piece of carboard and a rag. Rag against the piston.
- Grab your air nozzle and press the rubber tip against the inlet.
- Give it a quick blimp until you hear the pop of the seal unseating against the piston.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I flushed the line, compressed the pistons back in while open, bled the whole thing and put it back together with a caliper spreader in there in place of the pads.

I could move the pistons with the pedal and push them back in with the spreader.

It seems the pistons were not the problem. Once they got uncooked fluid behind them they moved freely.

Maybe I had a blockage, but it seems to be free enough now.

Will not know for sure until tomorrow bc the pads look a little cooked and I figure I should replace them while I have it all apart anyway.

Thanks for the input guys.
 

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Here is one that pops up all the time. When you did your change out and after bleeding, did you top off your fluid in the resevior? How far to the top? The fluid needs an air gap or space for expansion from heat. If the fluid expanded afterwards and had no room in the resevior, the brakes will not retract and stay engaged. Not saying that is what happened in your case, but is a logical explanation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here is one that pops up all the time. When you did your change out and after bleeding, did you top off your fluid in the resevior? How far to the top? The fluid needs an air gap or space for expansion from heat. If the fluid expanded afterwards and had no room in the resevior, the brakes will not retract and stay engaged. Not saying that is what happened in your case, but is a logical explanation.
I'll start by admitting that brakes are the thing that is a weak spot in my shop skills.

I did top off the reservoir, but only to the top line. I assumed that would leave me enough room in there, but who knows.

This was the hottest day of riding so far and it was also the hardest I have run it since she has been back together. I even noticed the fan was on at one point. So, maybe fluid expansion with insufficient room to move was my problem here.

While I still have it apart for new pads, I will take the precaution of bleeding off a little extra to give myself a little extra room this time around.

Thanks
 
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You said you had the caliper chromed. That can cause 2 problems. 1) any chrome process coating that gets into the boar will reduce clearences. 2) The chrome on the outside will hinder expansion when it gets hot forcing the heat to make it expand internally, again reducing piston to caliper clearence. Both will make it possible for the pistons to lock up once heated. Then they drag making more heat and they seaze in the bore. So if it does it again you'll have to hone the bore to gain some clearenceback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update

Well, My rear brake problem continued.

I had already eliminate just about every problem I could think of, but still, the problem was there.

If I rode and never touched the rear break, the rotor was still cooking hot.

If I used the rear brake while on a ride, it would get hot enough to have the pads stick to the rotor at a stop and then let go once they cooled a little.

So, today the weather man called for great chances of thunder storms and my wife had no plans for me, so I planned to spend the day in the garage, test and re-test every component of the system from pedal to caliper to find the problem.

After 4 hours of breaking down and testing every component, I was sure I must have fixed whatever was wrong, even though I was unable to identify what it was. But the pistons moved like butter, responded to the pedal and when the pistons were pushed back in, fluid was returned to the reservoir.:bigthumbsup:

I put it all back together, and still had it on the stand, so I decided to start it and let it spin the rear wheel off the ground so I could make sure there was not any rub. Well, resistance on the rotation came and went predictably pressing and releasing the pedal.:bigthumbsup:

So, I figure I may as well let it run a few more minutes for a proper oil check and read some posts here on the forum while I waited the other 10 minutes.

When I was about to shut down the bike, I checked on the rotor and it was HOT!

WTF

Staring at it in disbelief, I noticed that the caliper was moving as the wheel rotated.

WTF, the rotor flat. No wonder none of the other potential fixes had any effect on things.

Now, the rotor dose not seam warped, so much as bent. The irregularity a specific spot.

The rotors are polished and had come from Jerry. They were sitting on a shelf, still wrapped and in his packaging until I put the bike back together.

Fortunately, I had my stock rotor sitting around, so I polished it and swapped out the rotor.

Now it spins straight as an arrow with no movement of the caliper and no excess heat.

I think my problem is fixed, but will not know for sure until I get it out tomorrow.
 

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Im having the same problem. im guessing you rebuilt & bleed the line ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Im having the same problem. im guessing you rebuilt & bleed the line ?
Several times now.

From pedal to pads, everything has worked great since I put it back together the first time.

I never suspected the rotor because it had just come out of the box from Jerry.
 

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where can i get a rebuild kit ???
 

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I glad i like stock. The more i read the more i love stock...
 
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