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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have been PM'd to death about the front motor mounts which I don't mind but figured this would be more helpful.

For those that have not done this mod......DO IT! It has made my bike so much more enjoyable to ride. It is much smoother....the 3500rpm vibration is still there but you don't feel it much at all. Here are what some others have said about the mod:

I feel the engine real good now, and the whole being of the bike. LOL It feels and reacts so much tighter with the hard mounts up front.
:bigthumbsup: I actually thought mine felt a bit smoother when I got it all finished with the new mounts.
Anyway, it runs great, and seems much smoother. Maybe it's in my head, but it really feels different to me. It even seems to shift better:dontknow:.
The best $40 I've spent lately.
Yes they do feel better and all the torque lost slopping around in the soft mounts, LOL, Feels Like a new 9..............
All I can say is WOW,, what a difference.. All the heavy vibration that I took as normal in now gone... This is a must do mod in my opinion..:bigthumbsup:
:agree:After another day of riding today, I can really tell the difference in vibration felt in the handlebars. I remember the first time I revved up this bike to 3500-4000 rpm in neutral when I first bought it, the vibration was there, not too bad, but there. Now I can't feel it at all. The front motor mounts were too soft from the get go. Maybe Suzuki wanted more "character" to compete with HD. I'll take smoothness thank you.
Oh, good idea on the dish soap to ease installation, WD-40 didn't work.
I noticed zero vibration at my grips , my mirrors hardly vibrate and its alot smoother then when it was new !

I agree with Bobby I had 18000 miles didnt really know i needed them ! great improvement
Thanks again Chad !

Rode about 50 miles today and man it really is a lot smoother on the highway !
Here is what a new one looks like:


Here is what your front ones probably look like.....WORN OUT!





With that said, on with the HOW TO...........
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
First of all you will need two of the harder rear motor mounts. They are part #11652-10G30
I ordered mine from here and they were about $14 dollars each. That was the cheapest I could find and these folks gave great service:
http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/

You will also need two jacks....motorcycle and a one like this to lift/support the motor:


Now on to the stuff you must take off. You have to take all the radiator cowling stuff off. So the tank comes back and I took off the side covers as well:


Next you have to remove both of the footpeg brackets(2 bolts on each side) and the brake pedal. I didn't remove my shifter.....just sort of left it dangling but I did support it:




To remove the brake pedal, you have to remove this bolt:


The spring comes off as well. When you take the pedal off, there is a rubber O-ring that you don't need to lose. It probably will come off, just remember where it goes and put a thin coat of grease on it when you reinstall. Grease the brake lever shaft, too.

Remove this as well. It more of less just presses down into it's holder. There is a spring which you have to take off as well:



Next you need to remove the cover in front of the rear master cylinder....two bolts:


Ok....now you need to remove the rear brake fluid reservoir, so you can get at the bolts for the frame. I took the whole bracket off to make more room. I also disconnected my horn because I was pulling the radiator forward and the horn was holding it back:


Now.....I would take the bolts out of the radiator.....two at the top and one at the bottom. This will allow it to move forward and give you room to get behind it. This is what the right side of the bike will be looking like. This is CBR1000's pic. It also shows the two bolts in the frame out......don't do that YET!


Now get your one ton jack and support the motor.....we're getting to the good part. No pics of this but it has to go under the front part behind the oil filter.

Take out the long bolt between the front mounts, and the spacer.


Now the section of frame can be removed with 6 bolts. Slide out the old mounts (bushings), use dish soap or silicone grease (not oil, it degrades the rubber), and slide in the new ones with the spacer between them. These are the bolts that come out to remove the frame section.....there are two under the exhaust, two right behind the rear brake reservoir, and two on the shifter side right behind the radiator. In my picture, you can only see one of the bolts behind the brake reservoir....look at CBR1000s pic above to see both:







*****When you are removing these bolts, when you get down to the last bolt to come out....aka bolt 6 of 6.....it may be hard to get out. I had to screw it out all the way...all the others just pulled right out. I was worried that there was excess weight causing it to be in a bind and was expecting the worst when I pulled it out. Don't freak....the jack has got the motor. When Lucky helped a guy do his last week, he said the bolt did the same on that bike, too. So expect it.

Picture of old mount out:


The one ton jack will be a big help in lining everything up for the install. Also, if you can have an extra set of hands, I had Lucky, it will make this much easier.

Once the new ones are in, reinstall in the reverse order. I used blue loc-tite on all my stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Lucky helped me do mine and last weekend he did another guy's bike. He is planning to help GeorgiaRoller with his this week. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me or Lucky06. I did this "How To" after the fact but I hope it helps you guys out.

I don't think I left anything out but use your common sense and you'll be fine....:doorag:
 

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Very Very nice helpful write-up. If I ever decide to do this, you have helped us all out a bunch with this.
 

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Great job Bobby. I just ordered mine too, along with a couple other small items. Great prices but their shipping was a tad high, but at least I have them coming.

I bet they wonder why all at once everyone is ordering these bushings. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This is the first i've heard of this. Are the stock ones to soft and if so is all the years the same way?
The front ones are made out of a softer material and wear out really quickly. Replacing it with the harder rear ones (part number listed in above post) fixes the problem. Yes, all the years are the same way.
 

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Not sure what I missed, what are the symptoms as I have nearly 20,000 I dont notice any vibraton between 3500 and 4, I do have a dead spot around 4200 but I think that is a map problem. mirrors never shake? so how do you determin when threy are going bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Not sure what I missed, what are the symptoms as I have nearly 20,000 I dont notice any vibraton between 3500 and 4, I do have a dead spot around 4200 but I think that is a map problem. mirrors never shake? so how do you determin when threy are going bad?
You can see them. The "star" portion of the mount is pointed in so to see the one on the shifter side you have to be on the exhaust side and vice versa. Take a flash light and shine it in there and look. It is easier to see the one on the exhaust side. It might take you a minute or two to figure out where they are and what they look like, but you can see them with out taking anything off.
 

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You can see them. The "star" portion of the mount is pointed in so to see the one on the shifter side you have to be on the exhaust side and vice versa. Take a flash light and shine it in there and look. It is easier to see the one on the exhaust side. It might take you a minute or two to figure out where they are and what they look like, but you can see them with out taking anything off.
You sir are an example of why this forum is so great!
Thank You!!
 
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