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i just wanted to say thanks for the tip on adjusting the bars, i'd been searching for new bars everywhere. I too was having the knife between my shoulder blades when riding over 50 miles. needed something different before May ( going to Thunder Beach ). For those who missed the post, adjusting the bars up, brings the pullback another 1" maybe a little more. thanks again
 

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Cool, it also gives you about 2 inches more height at the grips, the only hassle is the control pods which are pinned to the bars, we just shortened the pins and rotated them back into position then made a little indent and tightened them back up, done deal.
I wont be looking for aftermarket bars now :D
 
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I adjusted mine last night. I haven't gotten in a ride yet but I can tell that it's gonna make a difference.

Thanks :D
 

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Just a mention to the raising of the bars. In doing so, i'd recommend moving the throttle cables to the right side of the right riser. In it's original spot, it might be a little tight, possibly causing a kink in the cable(s) When you turn the handlebars to the hard left, try twisting the throttle, and making sure it's not binding, or making a grindy plasticy sound coming from the frame neck area. If so, the cable is too taught. Raised them the first day I got it. And yes, what a difference it made.
 
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VZR1800 said:
Just a mention to the raising of the bars. In doing so, i'd recommend moving the throttle cables to the right side of the right riser. In it's original spot, it might be a little tight, possibly causing a kink in the cable(s) When you turn the handlebars to the hard left, try twisting the throttle, and making sure it's not binding, or making a grindy plasticy sound. If so, the cable is too taught. Raised them the first day I got it. And yes, what a difference it made.
Thanks for the heads up on the possible cable problem. I'll check it tonight before I ride.
 

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what kind of allen wrench did you use to loosen it. I had a pretty heafty one and it bent. Is mine just cheap or what else should I use. Its a craftsman so I didn't think they were that cheap. Did anyone use a allen head in a socket and ratchet?
 
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ditch said:
what kind of allen wrench did you use to loosen it. I had a pretty heafty one and it bent. Is mine just cheap or what else should I use. Its a craftsman so I didn't think they were that cheap. Did anyone use a allen head in a socket and ratchet?
Yes, I use an allen head socket. 3/8" drive. I bought a set some years ago. I think they are the most used tools I have.
 

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Yes, this adjustment worked for me also. I was looking into changing the bars altogether but this will work for now. I don't get any pains when riding for a long time but I was looking for a more in control feel.
 

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do those caps over the bolts just pop out with a flathead or am i gonna mess them up?
 
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Yes, the little caps just pop out. They are plastic though so don't worry about messing them up. Worry about messing up the riser covers. Also make sure that you adjust the controls to make sure that when you depress the clutch lever you don't also engage flash to pass. I had to readjust my bars because I didn't trim the controls to allow them to rotate on the bars. Did that make any sense?
 

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Was thinking that if someone put spacers beneath the riser (not a duct tape job, something that's solid and looks good), that might really help out.
 

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OMEGA said:
Cool, it also gives you about 2 inches more height at the grips, the only hassle is the control pods which are pinned to the bars, we just shortened the pins and rotated them back into position then made a little indent and tightened them back up, done deal.
I wont be looking for aftermarket bars now :D
Thanks for the tip. I moved my bar up but couldn't move the throttle control. I didn't realize there was a pin on the control and a hole in the bar. Following you info I'm going to re-adjust the throttle location. The bar is much more comfortable in a raised position. I'm 6' 2" with long arms and before the bar was adjusted I felt I was bent over too much.
 

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Changing the position of the bar to reduce the "knife in the back " feeling is probably not going to solve the sore back problem. I believe your back feels like a knife is in it because of the amount of tension you have to use to pull in the clutch lever. Did you find any problem with the right side of your back? I notice that if I am on short rides which require a lot of stop and go, especially traffic lights, my left shoulder starts to hurt. Pay attention to your back waiting for a light, and see the effect. When you raise the bar you are presenting more surface to the wind which reduces your aero dynamic efficiency. Just a thought.
 

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The pins on the throttle body and lighting body... I'm just about to cut those off *(how important are they anyway!)...

Thinking a dremel and sanding disc should do it.

What's everyone else using?
 

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I ground mine off and used electrical tape to help the control seat solidly. This is temporary, though. I plan on replacing the tape with a rubber sleave.
 

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Bluecruzer said:
The pins on the throttle body and lighting body... I'm just about to cut those off *(how important are they anyway!)...

Thinking a dremel and sanding disc should do it.

What's everyone else using?
Where exactly are these "pins" located and how do you move these units?
 

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They are in the bodies...

I changed my mind on these - they stop the throttle body as an example from sliding off the end of the bar (as do the cables I guess)

I redrilled a new hole - easy to do, worked PERFECT.

Take a drill bit, use the bottom end to see which one fits in the old hole, set your bar, use a punch, and a steel drill bit. I used a 3/8" drill (that's the drill not the bit) and positive pressure - took about 30 seconds per side.
 

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Bluecruzer said:
They are in the bodies...

I changed my mind on these - they stop the throttle body as an example from sliding off the end of the bar (as do the cables I guess)

I redrilled a new hole - easy to do, worked PERFECT.Â

Take a drill bit, use the bottom end to see which one fits in the old hole, set your bar, use a punch, and a steel drill bit. I used a 3/8" drill (that's the drill not the bit) and positive pressure - took about 30 seconds per side.
Excellent idea:):):)......I was going to remove the tabs also.....after reading your post the tabs are staying. Thanks again
 
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