M109 Rider Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well this is my first How to so if you guys see a better way step up and add your thoughts.

Ok the top pipe I did two cuts and dremel work. First cut I used a 1 3/8 & 2 1/2 with a twist I used a Large Arbor to put the 2 1/2 on and then I put a Lenox 4L small arbor with the 1 3/8 on it. Don't put the 2 1/2 on all the way on you will need to get to the screw to tighten up the small arbor. Got a step ahead of myself to get the small arbor to accept the 1 3/8 you need to get a bushing 3/8 MIP to 1/4 FIP, I use a watts A-778 Brass pipe bushing. The bushing won't go all the way into the 1 3/8 but no matter, it will act as a guide and after you get it started you don't need it, mine fell out and found that I could use the existing cut as a guide.





Once together tilt it torwards 11:00 and then drill. Take it real easy, not alot of force let the teeth do the work since it is cutting on a open angle.



I decided at this point to make the inner second cut with a 1 3/8 & 1 1/4, went smooth. You could proably leave out the 1 1/4 but oh well.



Once I got to this point I decided to use the Dremel since I was starting to go in to the weld. Used Dremel attachment 9901 woks great but I would suggest put on some hearing protection, Loud. After you are satisfied with the cut on to the fun part, knock out the 3 welds. I used a long flathead screw driver and a big hammer, after alittle work they will come out, Oh forget about the Dowel rod.



On to the Bottom pipe which I thought would be a breeze, it had a surprise for me but nothing major.

I used a 3in and 2in to make one cut, I had alittle trouble with the depth of the hole saw but all you have to do is tilt the drill at a slight angle around the pipe to get the last little but through.



Now the really fun part, the 3:eek:o weld is like the others, but the one at 9 and 6 is not. its alittle reinforced. But there is no worries the spot weld at 9 put your screw driver just below it and take it out, Be careful not to go through the wall. Now the one at 6 put your screw driver just to the left of the weld and it will go. The biggest pain I found was hit the screw driver and it would bounce off or shift and then have to drop the hammer and take a flashlight and find my mark again, hold the screw driver put down the flash light and get the hammer over and over again while laying on my stomach.



Now take a magnet and clean up the pipes and vacum them out with a small vac. The tape them up and cover up the back end of the bike and use Hi temp paint. I used Krylon BBQ & Stove paint good for temps of 600F for prolonged periods.



Well this is the final product, sorry forgot to straighten out the pic, but oh well.



Should be interesting, I have already drilled out the center baffles and now this. Haven't fired her up yet wanted the paint and the roads to dry. FYI you can use a twin size sheet mattress sheet to cover your bike in the garage to keep the dust off, the full might work better, the ones with the elastic ends, ask your wife :dontknow:

Just hope the set valve can handle it and no FI light. Suzuki has done it to me again and my fuel management idea might be out of reach. But that is for another post called Venting :D

Have fun, be safe :bigthumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,579 Posts
Re: Taking out Baffles of Stock Exhaust

Good work. This surprises me a bit though, as I thought the purpose of removing the baffle like this was to also remove the inner baffle walls. I didn't realize that there was another section past that first outer wall. I thought the inner baffles would come out with the piece that you cut out. Basically the only real advantage to doing this is for looks, since drilling 8 holes in the end is gonna let just as much sound out as fully cutting that wall out since you still have the inner pipe and baffle walls to drill out. I wish somebody had a "cross section" cutaway view of the stock pipes so we could actually see what was in there from the tip to the collector. Oh, I forgot to ask... How does it sound now? As for your FI light, you shouldn't have a problem since it's virtually the same thing as drilling the 8 holes and inner baffle walls.

Just a thought... Hey JR, since you cut off your stock pipes, how about taking a cut-off wheel and running it lengthwise down the pipe's top and bottom to split it so we can get a view of what the baffle setup looks like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Taking out Baffles of Stock Exhaust

I will fire it up tomorrow, but it seems in theory I would get more deep sound than just the eight holes since it won't have to go through the last pipe which I took out to get to the eight holes :dontknow: This is my first bike so I am learning as I go. As for the other wall I can see what looks like there is one beyond that one. The pipe you see that is left is pretty long so I don't have a clue yet on how to get through it, not sure I will .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Taking out Baffles of Stock Exhaust

I did this today , don't think the recording does it justice. The sound is waaaaaaay more than stock or just the center baffles drilled out. Was in WV on a ride yesterday and today about 350mi and at the hotel last night there were some other bikes mostly Harley's and I fired it up for one of the guys and he said it sounds like his bike a Harley, got that several times. That was not my intention to have it sound like one but what ever, it does sound sweet. Playing with the idea of plugging up the tubes and see what kind of sound I will get, I will record it and post it. I am going to use a different recorder tomorrow. Oh 1 last thing has anyone done a dyno with this mod ????

One sweet thing about this mod is when you are in 5th and let off the gas you don't feel like you have applied the brake.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Sounds good...watch the night ride as well, a tip I've heard that works when you video on the bike is to put some black electrician tape on the Microphone...it cuts the wind noise and you get to hear the bike better...less distraction from the wind give it a try...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You know I have tried that, I stripped it off the other day and will try it again. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
443 Posts
Trogdor said:
Sounds good...watch the night ride as well, a tip I've heard that works when you video on the bike is to put some black electrician tape on the Microphone...it cuts the wind noise and you get to hear the bike better...less distraction from the wind give it a try...
Works like a charm!! :bigthumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
DON'T USE THE PAINT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,579 Posts
BearCom said:
DON'T USE THE PAINT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Maybe be a bit more specific. What paint are you talking about, and why not use it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry was in a hurry, the BBQ paint I mentioned above, its turned light grey I think, I was running 110 octane and it could have been from that, thought I would for the heck of it and didn't know it had lead. But until I know for sure I don't want to take a chance of someone doing it and it looking like mine. So I guess my recommendation on the paint to use is I don't have one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Hey I just took your instructions on taking the baffels out. It worked like a charm IT SOUNDS GREAT !!!!!! It takes a little time but the end result is good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
:bigthumbsup: I'm glad everything wotked for you, do you notice a loss of ump at the top end ? If you do , do the skeeter air mod, it rocks :bigthumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I did and the stock map on PCIII is good for that , had it dyno'd but all evaluations should get their own Kingsport,tn 37663 for you to compare the elevations.Best for your bike and to get the cylinders checked independently for scale.. The best thing you can do and possibly skip the pclll is to open up your air intake. I have something that works email and I will send you pics of it. Just email me [email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No Worries, when you recieve the PCIII it comes with a stock fuel map for the M109.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top