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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK guys, Eveyone has added so much to this site, I wanted to give something in return. I am no mechanic, but loved the way the tach looked inside the headlight cowling, so I went for it. This is my first attempt at a "How Too" post, so I hope it gets the point across... It took me 3 Hours, but like I said I am no mechanic.

Tools Needed: Metric Allen key ratchet set.
            Philips screwdriver
            Metric ratchet set.
            #21 Drill Bit
            5 mm Tapper or a 10/32 tapper and 2 10/32 Allen bolts/Washers to replace the existing bolts form the tach bracket.
            Dremel or wheel grinder

1. Remove the head light cowling from the bike... There are 2 Allen screws, and to push pin plastic connectors. Remove all 4. Then gently wiggle the cowling straight forward. Once it comes away from the bike, unplug the Headlight connector...


2. Remove handle bars, remember to mark with tape or a marker their position in the risers. 4 Allen bolts remove these.
3. Remove the two Allen bolts underneath the tach. and lift off the risers.


4. disconnect the tach wire harness, there are 2. Undue the re-usable tie wrap. NOTE >>> (Do not cut the tie wrap you can use it later) pull the disconnected wire through the black plastic cover.Â


5. On th bottom of the tach, there are three screws and a steel plate. Remove the steel plate by removing the rubber grommets, and then unscrew the 3 philips, to remove the chrome housing. (the housing is not used again). Lay the tach aside for later...


6. Now you need to loosen the Brake line "T" coupling. There is a small bolt at the front of the coupling... NOTE>>> (The coupling is attached to the triple tree by some flimsy sheet metal. Take care when loosing the nut, to not twist the holder...)
Once this is loose, push the coupling as far left as it will go. This is needed to give you room for the tack to lay flat against the triple tree. Tighten the nut back up...


7. Put the tach flat and level on the triple tree. Make sure you snug the outer edges of the tach, against the Risers. It feels tight but it does fit in there. once you have the postion centered, mark your drill hole marks with a punch, or a sharpie...Â
If you marked them with a pen, you need to use a punch of some kind, to get an indent for the drill bit to start.Â

8. Drill your holes using a #21 Drill bit. NOTE>>> (Make sure to keep your drill bit perpendicular to the triple tree). Drill though the triple tree. Gently...

9. Use your Tapper and carefully tap the 2 holes. Again keep the tapper perpendicular to the triple tree. The tapping was quit easy. (I used a 10/32 kit with the #21 bit included , because I could not find a 5mm tap...Â

10. Then I used 3/4 10/32 Allen bolts and washers to attach the tach. Use a ratchet and bolt the tach onto the triple tree...


11. Once the tach is bolted on, re-route your wire through the middle of the black plastic cover, and re-connect. Just click them together. There is a re-usable tie wrap under there to make the wires meat. NOTE>>> Make sure all wiring is in front of the black palstic cover. Nothing between it and the forks..

12. Now the fun part. Mark the plastic cover with a pen and out line the back of the tach. This is the area that you will need to cut out, so the plastic back will completely slide back to the forks and triple tree. I was not very good at making this neat, with the dremel. But it served its purpose.Â
NOTE>>> (make sure you cut on the inside of the holes for the plastic push pins, that attach to the cowling). You want to make sure that you cut a bit of a bow on the sides so that when the plastic is put back in place, it fits snug to the tach. Trial and error here. Take a little and then fit, and so on. BUT THE BLACK PALSTIC COVER MUST FREELY REST AGAINST THE TRIPLE TREE AND FORKS. After you cut, use your dremel to sand the rough edges...


14. Blow out all the plastic shavings, and reconnect your Headlight Plug and put your cowling back on. It will be snug but it fits just fine. Attach the bolts and the plastic push pins to the back...Â

13. Before you re- attach your handle bars, You need to take off the tach bracket and polish it, and maybe put 2 chrome bolts in the empty holes.


Now reattach your handle bars, and you are finished... :doorag: :bigthumbsup: :doorag:

This is the view from sitting on the bike. Perfect view of the gauges.


Looks much meaner now.Â
They way it should have been IMO :bigthumbsup:


Other than that you are ready to ride... :doorag: :doorag: :doorag:Â Hope this helps you out... :2cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
bob109 said:
Thanks for another excellent "How to Post" :bigthumbsup: :bigthumbsup: :bigthumbsup:
Thanks.

The Tach has left a few little scratches on my risers. Does any one know how to get thos out without having to polish the whole riser???
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I went for a ride last night, heres what I learned...

1. After this modification, the Jittery headlight a lot of us are experiencing is GONE... The beam is now solid and follows the fork movement, no more caffeine shakes. :bigthumbsup:

2. I am really bad at cutting plastic. :redfaced: I need to find a gasket to fill in the little gaps around the tach. I can see the headlight shining through the sides of the tach. ::)

3. The position of the tach seems easier to see now, it is not right up in your face. :D

4. It makes the bike go way faster and stronger now :bigthumbsup: :doorag: :joke:
 

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Spankster said:
I went for a ride last night, heres what I learned...

1. After this modification, the Jittery headlight a lot of us are experiencing is GONE... The beam is now solid and follows the fork movement, no more caffeine shakes. :bigthumbsup:

2. I am really bad at cutting plastic.  :redfaced: I need to find a gasket to fill in the little gaps around the teach. I can see the headlight shining through the sides of the teach. ::)

3. The position of the teach seems easier to see now, it is not right up in your face. :D

4. It makes the bike go way faster and stronger now :bigthumbsup: :doorag: :joke:
Regarding # 2.......see if you can find a old tire inner tube and cut a piece of the rubber that will lay against the back of the teach. You can attach the rubber with some 3M double faced tape. The inner tube rubber is usuall very soft and pliable and will lay/countour itself to the shape of the teach IMHO!
 
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Man, I wish I had the balls to do this mod, lol....if the idiot lights weren't in the same housing as the tach I'd just ditch the tach altogether....
 

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Hate to be a buzz kill but i just unbolted my tach from the bar and shoved it behind the headlight. Total time..5 minutes and no gasket required. Haven't had any problems with it and it doesn't move at all :bigthumbsup:
 

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Kane62 said:
Hate to be a buzz kill but i just unbolted my tach from the bar and shoved it behind the headlight. Total time..5 minutes and no gasket required. Haven't had any problems with it and it doesn't move at all :bigthumbsup:
Cool ! I'm even less of a mechanic than Spankster. I'll be trying this first for sure.

No movement at all then ? What about over any decent bumps ?

OZcruizer
 

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I must promote this mod, It looks awesome, much cleaner look and better viewing angle now, just doohh it.

Use a Dremel for cutting the black plastic for a perfect fit.

And yes, the rumour is true - it's faster now, at least the Silver, I think it is the new sleek aerodynamic :D
 

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I would like to thank you for the instructional!...
..
my brake line bracket was different than yours but i got it...and i routed the brake hose to the outside of the riser bar.



 

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I think this the best mod by far. The big chrome box way up high looks stupid I think. I love how the nice looking risers are much more prominent now.
 

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Kane62 said:
Hate to be a buzz kill but i just unbolted my tach from the bar and shoved it behind the headlight. Total time..5 minutes and no gasket required. Haven't had any problems with it and it doesn't move at all :bigthumbsup:
Kane I was curious if you had to take it out of its casing or did you just simply push it down in there!

DK
 

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Hey Spankster

Thanx for an excellent post! :bigthumbsup: :doorag: :super: :doorag: :bigthumbsup:

I performed this modification last night and it took me about an hour or so I guess. I had an issue getting the head light bezel to line back up and ended up rounding the ends of the screws. Luckily I took my dremel and cleaned up the threads and was lucky enough to re-use the bolts. Man they make C H E A P bolts for these bikes!!! It's almost rediculous...

Anyway, I really appreciate your posting this. I used Velcro (but not the fuzzy stuff, its like hooks on both sides that latch together) to hold the tach under the bezel instead of drilling the holes. I couldn't bring myself to drill into the housing last night. I will do that at a later date if I decide I want it there permanent.

Cheers and have a great weekend!

EDIT: The only draw back that I have found is that there seems to be more wind now in my chest. The other is that I don't notice when I leave my blinkers on because the light is no longer flashing in my face. BUT, at night, it looks sweet :bigthumbsup:
 

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I've did this mod and it looks great. Here is the only issue I have...
Even though I used a dremel and knocked down some of the plastic to the upper rear section of the tach, I have noticed that the headlight points a bit further down and causing me to use my brights @ night. I see some of you do not seem to have experienced this. Perhaps these beast aren't all identical and some have tolerances, where other's have interferences.
I am planning on making a set of aluminum risers on a CNC here at work. When I do, there will not be that pointed front area just above the triple tree that the stock ones have. This should allow enough room to move the tach back a bit and allow the headlight to be pointed upward.
I'll keep ya all posted and also take a few pics.
Great mod, by the way. Less the de-beaver mod (which is most likely a legal one), this is prolly one that Suzuki should have done from the start!
 

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KneeDragnR1 said:
I've did this mod and it looks great. Here is the only issue I have...
Even though I used a dremel and knocked down some of the plastic to the upper rear section of the tach, I have noticed that the headlight points a bit further down and causing me to use my brights @ night.
I have this same problem with mine and plan on putting the tach back on the bars (for now). I've inquired (via PM) about others having this problem and no one responded. Hopefully your CNC mod will take care of everything. If I can't come up with something else I really like I'll probably get the kit to move the tack to where the bars clamp on.
 

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57 Chevy Man said:
I have this same problem with mine and plan on putting the tach back on the bars (for now). I've inquired (via PM) about others having this problem and no one responded. Hopefully your CNC mod will take care of everything. If I can't come up with something else I really like I'll probably get the kit to move the tack to where the bars clamp on.
Yeah Chevy, I was thinking that as well. But I really like this mod...Much more so then the tach on high. Which, to me, just looks totally out of place!
 

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I like better the mod with tachometer half way down, I saw this mod on one of bikes here, looks great with the raisers :bigthumbsup:
 
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