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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I will try to post pics next time I have my 9 apart but the info in this How-to should be enough for any of you to get the job done.

I wish I would have taken pics, but since there were how-to's on here for the normal tach relocation I will just try to explain the best I can. I really didn't expect anyone to want to do it my way, but it is super easy and should only take about 30 minutes.

Tools needed: small phillips screwdriver, allen wrenches, and preferably a friend to hold stuff when your hands are full. Edit: And an extra friend to take pics so I can post em in here for everyone. :joke:


parts needed: 1 roll of 1 inch 3M double sided tape (DON'T BUY THE CHEAPEST TAPE!), rubbing alcohol, a lint free cloth, and 1 bicycle tire inner tube. (6 bucks max)

1. take a towel and lay it over your speedo cluster, then mark your stock location of the bars (so you have a reference when you put it back together)

2. take your handlebars off the risers and place them ever so gently on the towel (it is kind of a balancing act, but all the wiring for the controls help keep it steady)

3. now that the bars are out of the way take out the 2 bolts that hold the tach in the stock location (the bracket the sits between your risers)

4. take the chrome housing off the tach (there are two seperate pieces and quite a few little screws)

5. now you have the tach stripped all the way down and can start the process of fitting the inner tube to the tach. I just put the 3M tape on the innertube after cleaning the inner tube and tach with alcohol and a lint free cloth so the tape has a clean surface to stick to. Place the tape around the high parts of the tach so that when you wedge it down into place it is making contact with the back side of the cowl.

6. Make sure the wiring running through the triple tree area is neat and as out of the way as you can get it.

7. have your friend pull gently but FIRMLY on the nacelle to persuade it to come forward about a half inch, then just place (or shove without rolling the innertube and tape) the tach as far down as you can (the black mounting tab on the tach should almost be flush with the triple tree)

8. reassemble and drink beer while you gripe about the fact that you wished JDMitchell would have put some pics on this how to.

Here are a couple pics of the finished product.





I hope this helps, I love how mine looks and I didn't even have to cut anything, so it could go back to stock if I wanted it to (but who would want to go and do something crazy like that?)
 

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glad you busted ur own balls about no pictures..........cause I was gonna!! LOL LOL :nopic::nopic::beer3::2cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
glad you busted ur own balls about no pictures..........cause I was gonna!! LOL LOL :nopic::nopic::beer3::2cool:
I was asked on another thread to post up a how to for the guys that don't want to attack their 9 with a dremel and I didn't take pics when I did it because I used some of the info from the how for the dremel surgeons.
 

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I was asked on another thread to post up a how to for the guys that don't want to attack their 9 with a dremel and I didn't take pics when I did it because I used some of the info from the how for the dremel surgeons.
ah I hear ya..... I might think about it but I have the HID up there and it was tight going back together when I did it, SO will ride with the way it is till I change my mind.... :bigthumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ah I hear ya..... I might think about it but I have the HID up there and it was tight going back together when I did it, SO will ride with the way it is till I change my mind.... :bigthumbsup:
Your ballast and other electronic goodies aren't sitting inside the housing for the headlight?
 

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Hey Jd, Thanx that seems very easy. I have the Touring Shield on my bike so I do not know how that would work with the frame of the shield on there. When I decide to take it off, I think as mechanically inclined as I am, ( I can screw anything up ) I am sure I can handle that:bigthumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey Jd, Thanx that seems very easy. I have the Touring Shield on my bike so I do not know how that would work with the frame of the shield on there. When I decide to take it off, I think as mechanically inclined as I am, ( I can screw anything up ) I am sure I can handle that:bigthumbsup:
Good luck, hopefully it turns out to be a 2 beer job for you and a buddy.
 

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Ok I need a bicycle tube, high quality 3M double sided tape, rubbing alcohol or Apple pi brandy, a soft cloth (under-armor moisture wicking underwear if you have a pair), and a Gov't issue swiss army pocket knife. Give him 30 min with a friend to hold his stuff (Hink could help here) and you're done! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·


Ok I need a bicycle tube, high quality 3M double sided tape, rubbing alcohol or Apple pi brandy, a soft cloth (under-armor moisture wicking underwear if you have a pair), and a Gov't issue swiss army pocket knife. Give him 30 min with a friend to hold his stuff (Hink could help here) and you're done! :D
:a20::a20:

But how much time do I have before the bomb explodes? :joke:
 

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Put the beer down and do everything again! At this time get a third friend to hold the camera!
Good "jawb" big dawg!:bigthumbsup:
 

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JD is that the brake line on the left side of your tach in the last picture? I just tried to do this but I absolutely could not fit the tach down there around the T in the brake line and also it looked like the tach put too much pressure on the brake line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
JD is that the brake line on the left side of your tach in the last picture? I just tried to do this but I absolutely could not fit the tach down there around the T in the brake line and also it looked like the tach put too much pressure on the brake line.
No, that is the stock clutch cable that I had on for a bit while my barnett was being refurbished. I am not sure of the location of the stock T for the brake lines because I have barnett brake hoses. Can you post a pic of your problem and maybe myself or someone else can help you out?

Or are you talking about the bundle of wiring at the 7 o'clock position? If so I just pushed that out of the way so I could slide the tach into position.
 

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It looks like there's a screw or a bolt that attaches the brake line to the triple tree. You can probably just remove the bolt so the brake line can be moved out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just finished mine and it was a pain! Had to move brakeline and modify the tach housing to get a clean decent fit.
Modify the tach housing how? I just removed the chrome and it fit like it was meant to be there.
 

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I will try to post pics next time I have my 9 apart but the info in this How-to should be enough for any of you to get the job done.

I wish I would have taken pics, but since there were how-to's on here for the normal tach relocation I will just try to explain the best I can. I really didn't expect anyone to want to do it my way, but it is super easy and should only take about 30 minutes.

Tools needed: small phillips screwdriver, allen wrenches, and preferably a friend to hold stuff when your hands are full. Edit: And an extra friend to take pics so I can post em in here for everyone. :joke:


parts needed: 1 roll of 1 inch 3M double sided tape (DON'T BUY THE CHEAPEST TAPE!), rubbing alcohol, a lint free cloth, and 1 bicycle tire inner tube. (6 bucks max)

1. take a towel and lay it over your speedo cluster, then mark your stock location of the bars (so you have a reference when you put it back together)

2. take your handlebars off the risers and place them ever so gently on the towel (it is kind of a balancing act, but all the wiring for the controls help keep it steady)

3. now that the bars are out of the way take out the 2 bolts that hold the tach in the stock location (the bracket the sits between your risers)

4. take the chrome housing off the tach (there are two seperate pieces and quite a few little screws)

5. now you have the tach stripped all the way down and can start the process of fitting the inner tube to the tach. I just put the 3M tape on the innertube after cleaning the inner tube and tach with alcohol and a lint free cloth so the tape has a clean surface to stick to. Place the tape around the high parts of the tach so that when you wedge it down into place it is making contact with the back side of the cowl.

6. Make sure the wiring running through the triple tree area is neat and as out of the way as you can get it.

7. have your friend pull gently but FIRMLY on the nacelle to persuade it to come forward about a half inch, then just place (or shove without rolling the innertube and tape) the tach as far down as you can (the black mounting tab on the tach should almost be flush with the triple tree)

8. reassemble and drink beer while you gripe about the fact that you wished JDMitchell would have put some pics on this how to.

Here are a couple pics of the finished product.





I hope this helps, I love how mine looks and I didn't even have to cut anything, so it could go back to stock if I wanted it to (but who would want to go and do something crazy like that?)
did the brake lines or any lines have to be moved...
 
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