[Mr.Rusty]

I can't seem to find anything on it on any of the posts...
I have a 2007 M109r and when I turn the key on and before I crank it, I hear (the only way I can describe it) is it sounds like a barn door squeaking on it's hinges sound. It sounds like its coming from maybe the air box under the gas tank. Lasts for about 2 or 3 seconds then stops. It's such a transient sound that it could be even be coming from around the exhaust valve down at the pipes.
Its had it ever since I owned the bike (3 years) and never gotten any worse or any better, it's just there and bugs the hell out of me. Has anyone had the same sound and found a fix for it.
Any thoughts.

 

[Bering_C_Sparky]

When you turn on the key and kill switch, the fuel pump will prime, and both the secondary throttle plates and exhaust servo will actuate full scale and back again.
The exhaust servo gears are plastic and known to break, which can cause it to sound pretty gnarly.
Put a long extension or long screwdriver onto the exhaust servo and your ear to the other end. Then have someone else turn on the key and you should be able to tell right off if that is your issue.

BCS
LGB/FJB

 

[Mr.Rusty]

When you turn on the key and kill switch, the fuel pump will prime, and both the secondary throttle plates and exhaust servo will actuate full scale and back again.
The exhaust servo gears are plastic and known to break, which can cause it to sound pretty gnarly.
Put a long extension or long screwdriver onto the exhaust servo and your ear to the other end. Then have someone else turn on the key and you should be able to tell right off if that is your issue.

BCS
LGB/FJB

So there is minimal noise coming from the exhaust servo and I can actually see the servo turn the valve head assembly on the pipe, so I think it's not that. And I'm sure its not the fuel pump.
Could the secondary throttle plates cause this noise as you say they cycle when turn on the key?
And is it serviceable as in lubricating the mechanism.

 

[Joe RC51]

It's normal.

 

[Mr.Rusty]

So it's normal for that noise when I turn on my key?
Ok then... I'll add that noise to my list😂
Thanks very much for the quick responses
RIDE ON AND PROSPER! 🏍🏍🏍

 

[Bering_C_Sparky]

So it's normal for that noise when I turn on my key?
Ok then... I'll add that noise to my list😂
Thanks very much for the quick responses
RIDE ON AND PROSPER! 🏍🏍🏍

Without being able to hear the noise I could not say if it is normal or not over the internet.
If it is something you believe to be abnormal, take short video, post it to Youtube and post that link here so we can have a listen.

BCS
LGB/FJB

 

[Mr.Rusty]

👍

 

[Zoom]

It's more than likely to be the flapper in the exhaust that the servo actually moves. It's metal on metal and they start squeaking when they get rusty. Most folks forget about it because they have aftermarket exhaust. Mine used to do it terribly, I even tried oiling it and that made it stop for a bit but then you had to put up with the burning oil smell.

Turn the bike on and then flip the kill switch. Get under the bike just behind the right side foot peg. Flip the kill switch back on and you'll hear exactly where it is.

 

[Mr.Rusty]

Exhaust Valve side

youtube.com

Key side by tank

youtube.com

 

[Mr.Rusty]

It's more than likely to be the flapper in the exhaust that the servo actually moves. It's metal on metal and they start squeaking when they get rusty. Most folks forget about it because they have aftermarket exhaust. Mine used to do it terribly, I even tried oiling it and that made it stop for a bit but then you had to put up with the burning oil smell.

Turn the bike on and then flip the kill switch. Get under the bike just behind the right side foot peg. Flip the kill switch back on and you'll hear exactly where it is.

I just posted the videos of the noise up top and beside the exhaust valve (flapper)...
It is definitely louder when your on the exhaust side.
Is it serviceable ie: can you take it apart or is it a sealed unit?

 

[Bering_C_Sparky]

That for sure sounds like the valve in the exhaust.

The first photo below shows the exhaust valve, both with the cover on and with the cover removed. By the sound on the video I would guess its this valve itself making that noise.

The second photo below shows the servo actuator that controls the valve, via 2 mechanical cables.

The third photo shows the 2 wiring harnesses and connectors for the actuator.

If you want to confirm 100% for yourself that it is the exhaust valve, you can unplug these two connectors. Then turn the key and kill switch on and see if there is no noise.
The FI fault indicator lamp near your tachometer will come on with these unplugged but that is not a problem.
But you don't really want to ride the bike with them unplugged unless you know the valve is in the open position when you unplug it....and it won't be.
Just be sure you are unplugging the 2 connectors from the exhaust servo and not the connector from the gear position switch. It is in the same area there behind the frame rail in front of the battery box and it looks just like the triangular 3 wire connector from the exhaust servo. The connector for the gear position switch will have a wiring harness that runs into the back side of your clutch cover though and not to the exhaust servo.

You can actually get rid of the actuator and cables and then just leave the valve in the open position is you want to.
If you do that you will need to get a ESE (exhaust servo eliminator or have your ECU flashed in order to bypass the fault and get the FI lamp turned off though.

Or you can try to service it and lube it up to see if you can stop the squeak.
If you don't have a service manual I can I try to email one to you.
Its just over 100mb when compressed, but if you need it, send my your email address in a PM and I will see if it will go or not.

Or just use the squeak as an excuse to remove the stock exhaust and get yourself a nice aftermarket one.

BCS
LGB/FJB

 

[Mr.Rusty]

Thanks for the help.
I will have a closer look after i get it up on my bike lift. Maybe try and disassemble the valve cable body on the pipe and see if I can lube the shaft going into the exhaust pipe.
If I can fix the problem I'll post an update.
I'm retired so right now a exhaust upgrade isn't in the money 🤣

 

[thevili]

I hope you can download service manual from here:
Main service manual: https://www.manualslib.com/download/1215252/Suzuki-Intruder-Vzr1800.html

Supplemental manual 2010/11 and UP: https://www.manualslib.com/download/908126/Suzuki-Vzr1800.html

Owners manual: https://www.manualslib.com/download/1207061/Suzuki-Vzr1800-Bz.html

 

[frotosride_2239]

Thanks for the help.
I will have a closer look after i get it up on my bike lift. Maybe try and disassemble the valve cable body on the pipe and see if I can lube the shaft going into the exhaust pipe.
If I can fix the problem I'll post an update.
I'm retired so right now a exhaust upgrade isn't in the money 🤣

About to retire and I understand budget! You can always leave the module I place, remove the cables and take the valve out of the exhaust. This will only cost time. The only fab will be plugging the holes from the rod.

 

[Zoom]

You can definitely lube it, like I said above. The problem is, it doesn't last long because of the exhaust heat. Plus it smells burning off. I would just remove the cables from the servo and let it stay open. I don't think it will work with just the cables taken off the servo without setting a fault light, but you can add a dummy cam to the servo or get an exhaust servo eliminator (ESE). It's spring loaded so it will stay open with the cables removed.

 

[Metalman]

I had a 2006 Nine for several years and it always made that same noise when I tuned on the ignition.

 

[Bering_C_Sparky]

You can definitely lube it, like I said above. The problem is, it doesn't last long because of the exhaust heat. Plus it smells burning off. I would just remove the cables from the servo and let it stay open. I don't think it will work with just the cables taken off the servo without setting a fault light, but you can add a dummy cam to the servo or get an exhaust servo eliminator (ESE). It's spring loaded so it will stay open with the cables removed.

If the portion you were lubing is on the outside of the pipe and acceptable, maybe try bees wax instead of wd40 to lube it up.
Beeswax is an old country boy substitute for penetrating oil, to break bolts and nuts loose.
Get the pipe hot and jam some bees wax in around the moving parts and it will make its way into the joint.
Will smell much nicer than oil when riding down the road also.

BCS
LGB/FJB

 

[Zoom]

Never thought of bees wax, that's a good idea. I never did get it to quit for more than a couple weeks, but that all went away when I took the stock exhaust off. I'm surprised they didn't put a brass bushing or something on them.

 

[VinceQ]

Exhaust Valve side

youtube.com

Key side by tank

youtube.com

There is something definitely wrong. I have a 2008 and when I turn the key on mine, you can just hear the Fuel Priming and the Servos moving. I can hear that grinding, sounds like metal on metal without lube. I would take it to the shop to get a once over my friend.

Vince

 

[frotosride_2239]

Graphite lube can help as well. As a lubricant it can generally withstand 1450°f and 2400°f as antiseize/breakaway. We use it for steam piping and stem valves as a normal maintenance item.