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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Forgot to mention, take a TON of pictures during disassembly. It may take you 6-8 weeks to get the transmission back and then you will start questioning things. We have a clipboard with about 25 or so line items. Each item matches a corresponding. gallon zip lock bag with a number on it. When you are ready to reassemble, you should get back to the first bag and have no extra parts.
That is an excellent idea with the baggies! I do plan on many pictures, writing out the list of steps before hand based off some of the engine removal videos for this I've been watching - I'll add baggy numbers as I go along. Not knowing when something goes in and why has caught me in the past ;).

I don't want to stop until I'm at the "stopping point" as it were. With the end of the year coming up I'll have plenty of long weekends to knock stuff out. I have an old laptop in the garage for looking up things or asking questions - I've found that if I complain about something not wanting to go in/come out somewhere it usually comes right out my next attempt. I don't question it.

That and this time change has really screwed with me the older I get - and I'm not that old!
 

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That is an excellent idea with the baggies! I do plan on many pictures, writing out the list of steps before hand based off some of the engine removal videos for this I've been watching - I'll add baggy numbers as I go along. Not knowing when something goes in and why has caught me in the past ;).

I don't want to stop until I'm at the "stopping point" as it were. With the end of the year coming up I'll have plenty of long weekends to knock stuff out. I have an old laptop in the garage for looking up things or asking questions - I've found that if I complain about something not wanting to go in/come out somewhere it usually comes right out my next attempt. I don't question it.

That and this time change has really screwed with me the older I get - and I'm not that old!
Have to go in to this with an open mind that nothing will be quick your first time. Just using a mallet and tapping the heads to get them to pull up takes time. Use the manual for everything and use the one video where the guy tears down the C109 motor. Those together are great. Keep in mind that for you, since you are doing the transmission, you only need to remove the rear jug which makes it easier. You will want to get new o-rings and seals for everything. There is a full kit that has "most" stuff but not everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Still have yet to start on this. Weather has been too damn cold still and work is crazy. Maybe start this weekend?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
So I've got the bolt backed out using a combination of left hand drill bits and easy-out bits. TO the point where I have to hold the rotor still...which I can't do the method in the "manual" as I haven't removed required parts to hold it still. I suppose its not too much more work to remove the covers and do it the right way if I ever want to ride this season. Local shop quoted $1300 to pull the engine and transmission - another $1300 to re-install. Roughly how much is left on the loan. Sent a few requests out to local mobile mechanics to assist with no one wanting to touch it, I kinda get it.

That or finish the last payments and buy something else in the mean time :sneaky:
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Working on getting the secondary gear off, I'll deal with the bolt later. Might as well replace everything I figure, while I didn't see damage on the gear I can't be for certain.

This guy is pressed in there good! Took a page out of @some 9 's book and bought some thread rod, cut it to 6.5" or so. Its pulled forward a noticeable amount but the rods holding the bearing cup are bending :LOL: I'll cut some new ones.

I'll go back out in a bit, tightened everything up again and pull out my overkill breaker bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Changed directions earlier and decided to inventory what I know needs to be replaced. I was on the thought earlier of just replacing everything. Then I added it all to my cart.

So lets find out what I need to replace first.

Already assumed/confirmed:
Both gear bevels - most expensive parts, of course.
Broken bolt and washer that started the whole issue.
Shims for behind transfer case.
Shims for inside the transfer case.
Any and all o-rings and gaskets - there were 2 or 3.


I need to pull out the gear shaft, stopper etc inside however; my vise needs an upgrade - I have a 4" and I'll need a 5/6". I'll pick one up tomorrow and maybe get it cracked so I can inspect the shaft, dog cam.
 

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Good luck with it bro. That's a ton of work to do when the parts aren't cooperating. I'd love to know why that bolt broke, and hopefully it was just a faulty bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Good luck with it bro. That's a ton of work to do when the parts aren't cooperating. I'd love to know why that bolt broke, and hopefully it was just a faulty bolt.
Thanks man, finally getting around to it and hoping I don't make a bigger problem, hah. As long as that bolt hasn't been mangled too much after pulling the gear off and I can get it out everything else in the process shouldn't be too terrible I don't think. Hell of a lot less work than pulling the engine IMO.

The xfercase does not fit in my 4" vise, HF only had a 5" vise on the shelf so I picked that up. While it would work, kinda, I'd be better off returning for a 6" vise instead. And its so damn hot already. Was only out there for 10 minutes and I am drenched.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Still stuck. Been using the larger bearing cup with the thicker diameter. Not sure the smaller cup with the thinner connection bars are going to fair any better but I'll be cutting some pieces down to size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
This may have beaten me. I may go pay the stupid tax somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Ok - picked up my buddy's welding kit. Waiting until it cools off tonight or in the morning and play with a few test welds and then see about getting this lil bastard out.

Found the 2 weakest bolts on my car replacing my slave cylinder last night on my car - both snapped during removal with 1/4 to 1/2 inch sticking up. I'm going to get my practice and application skills put to test for sure. Will be 2 different approaches as well. I have nubs sticking up from my trans case, figure I would size a nut around the exposed pieces - fill in the nut with weld and after a cool down and PB soak try and back them out. Not really enough room to try anything else without removing the radiator.

The m109 bolt has been drilled and has a nice deep pit in it. I may try a short subby bolt with a decent/tapered diameter and tack it on.
 

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You're welcome. R&D Motorsports in clearwater is the only place we deal with. In terms of things to look for, nothing else in my opinion. He will send you the hardened shift forks and rods with your transmission after he is done. He basically magnafluxes it and will make sure it is perfect. There is a video out there for drilling out the oil jet to allow more oil to the clutch as well. That is something you can think about doing to prevent the infamous clutch shudder. You will need a gasket set, which has the head gaskets in it and other things. You need to remove the generator bolt, and that requires a special took as well and it is in the manual. Feel free to hit me up and I can help you through it. The timing is your biggest challenge as you need to make sure you do it correctly, or you will need to go back in. You can actually time it 180 degrees off.
You're welcome. R&D Motorsports in clearwater is the only place we deal with. In terms of things to look for, nothing else in my opinion. He will send you the hardened shift forks and rods with your transmission after he is done. He basically magnafluxes it and will make sure it is perfect. There is a video out there for drilling out the oil jet to allow more oil to the clutch as well. That is something you can think about doing to prevent the infamous clutch shudder. You will need a gasket set, which has the head gaskets in it and other things. You need to remove the generator bolt, and that requires a special took as well and it is in the manual. Feel free to hit me up and I can help you through it. The timing is your biggest challenge as you need to make sure you do it correctly, or you will need to go back in. You can actually time it 180 degrees off.
 
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