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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I have another secondary drive that fail but the owner was riding it hard and down shifted into a gear that forced the secondary to explode and chip a tooth in the main gear at the motor, unlike mine thank god when I removed it his bearings in the motor was fine, pics to follow

You can clearly see the broken and messed up teeth on this gear that was removed.




Also destroying the inside of the secondary and making a whole in it.



The pulley used was from Harbor Freight and a couple of 5/16 rods from home depot cut to 6 1/2 as the pulleys rod were to short. http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...s/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-93980.html



Very hard coming out



But very easy going in, go figure



And mission accomplished.




 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just for future reference Andy, what was the parts cost?
I had the parts, but for a used secondary $225-$275 and it would be hard to find a main gear as it's attached to the engine so from Zuki it's $481.00
 

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unlike mine thank god when I removed it his bearings in the motor was fine,




I would like to take note of that bearing. While it's not something that fails often, if you look a the balls there is a LOT of space between them. Suzuki could have put double the number of balls in that bearing. They did the same thing with the Cavalcade. While the number of failures in the Cavalcade are not extremely high, there are a fair number of them. The forces are different than for the M109. But, since Suzuki has discontinued that bearing for the Cavalcade, I actually make a replacement from an existing bearing that has twice as many balls in it.

Nice work Andy...looks like you're on your way to becoming a 109 master mechanic! :D :bigthumbsup:
That reminds me of the young man that went to the docks to learn how to bait hooks for the fishermen. Eventually, once he got really good at it, he became a master baiter.
 

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The pulley used was from Harbor Freight and a couple of 5/16 rods from home depot cut to 6 1/2 as the pulleys rod were to short. http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...s/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-93980.html

Very hard coming out




Hi all.

My mechanic showed me that the secondary drive gear can be easily moved by hand up and down and this is probably due to the failed bearing that you see in this picture.
The problem is that unlike the drive gear, to replace this bearing the engine must be pulled and open :eek: ... I guess that this will cost at least 1000 K Euro in labor + parts ...​
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi all.

My mechanic showed me that the secondary drive gear can be easily moved by hand up and down and this is probably due to the failed bearing that you see in this picture.
The problem is that unlike the drive gear, to replace this bearing the engine must be pulled and open :eek: ... I guess that this will cost at least 1000 K Euro in labor + parts ...[/INDENT]
Yes the engine has to be pulled, no other way. This has happen to me one year after I installed my motor, when I pulled the bearing all the balls fell out. Sorry to hear this, that's the part that sucks. I suggest for anybody redoing there engine to check these bearing as if they are no good you will have to pull your engine again like I did.

 

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I suggest for anybody redoing there engine to check these bearing as if they are no good you will have to pull your engine again like I did.
Another question.
After having replaced this bearing, can the secondary drive gear (the one that you pulled out in the picture above) still be moved up and down or is it firm in place?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Another question.
After having replaced this bearing, can the secondary drive gear (the one that you pulled out in the picture above) still be moved up and down or is it firm in place?
It's firm in place.
 

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Don't make the mistake of forcing that bearing out !! The bearing CANNOT be removed without splitting the casings !! The bearing has a locator ring around it, and if you try to removed it, you will damage the casings...


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I'm wondering if you happened to get this bearing out, then the bearing was probably not an OEM bearing... the OEM bearing has a locator ring around it... so I'm thinking that maybe that's the reason it failed in the first place, because the thrust could not have been aligned properly.. that's the reason for the locator ring... just my thoughts...


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It wouldn't surprise me if the motor has been apart previously for second gear repair... I've done three of them already, and have another I'm about to do... the OEM bearing is around the $200 mark, so they might have looked for a cheaper option...
 

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You can see the locator in this photo... one I did a while ago... so your mechanic that told you that you could remove this bearing was not giving you correct advice...
 
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