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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My clutch is fine, but I do want to experiment with launches, and generally abuse the bike while I learn. I will feel a whole lot better, if I just come to grips right out of the gates that I will need a new clutch much sooner than I would like.
If it's really expensive, I will continue to have fun, but not that much fun.
Has anyone replaced a wet clutch. How much, and how hard is it to do.
I did a search on this, but didn't see anything about home replacement or costs.
 

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Not sure on the 109, but just had mine replaced on my 800.

For parts, I spent:
$8.43 for a new gasket
$47.38 for a heavy duty EBC clutch plate kit
$7.38 for heavy duty clutch springs

...plus oil & a filter.

Labor varies, obviously. I was lucky enough to know a guy that had done a few VS800 clutch replacements before and asked if he'd help. Wife owes him a lassagna dinner with cheesecake for desert for payment. I owe him a lifetime of gratitude. :bigthumbsup:

I'd be nervous doing it myself now, but am confident if I have to do it any time soon I could accomplish the task. The longer I wait...the more I'll forget though. :redfaced:

On a side note, I have a neighbor that races for a living (bikes...and motogp style) that used to race at the dragstrip a lot. He's told me that while it will wear out clutches faster....they'll still last quite a while. Mine was just ready to go (35,000 miles on stock clutch for this bike is good).

Hope that helps a little...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
wildwolf said:
Not sure on the 109, but just had mine replaced on my 800.

For parts, I spent:
$8.43 for a new gasket
$47.38 for a heavy duty EBC clutch plate kit
$7.38 for heavy duty clutch springs

...plus oil & a filter.

Labor varies, obviously. I was lucky enough to know a guy that had done a few VS800 clutch replacements before and asked if he'd help. Wife owes him a lassagna dinner with cheesecake for desert for payment. I owe him a lifetime of gratitude. :bigthumbsup:

I'd be nervous doing it myself now, but am confident if I have to do it any time soon I could accomplish the task. The longer I wait...the more I'll forget though. :redfaced:

On a side note, I have a neighbor that races for a living (bikes...and motogp style) that used to race at the dragstrip a lot. He's told me that while it will wear out clutches faster....they'll still last quite a while. Mine was just ready to go (35,000 miles on stock clutch for this bike is good).

Hope that helps a little...
That does help. Thaks wildwolf. Even though the parts are likely a little more on the 109, it sounds like it's not too pricey if you do it yourself.
:doorag:
 

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Hal mentioned a while back that he was in contact with an individual that was working on some beefed-up parts for the M clutches. I must have missed the follow-up post about what they came up with :dontknow:
 

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dog man said:
This is off subject but.... Trouble Is, your pictures are kick a$$, I really like them, miss the mountains big time.
Thank you :D There IS a price to pay for living so close to all the beautiful scenery, though. It hasn't gotten above 50* here in several days and below-freezing temps at night are pretty much a given. I used to live down your way... and wish I still did when the temps start dropping in the Fall. I lived in Bossier City for 8 years :bigthumbsup:
 

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This was from sledzep's post when he had burnt his....happy ending though.

There is a total of 5.1hrs of labor on the receipt
4hrs for the actual clutch work directly. Since they overnighted the parts yesterday I am guessing I was just being reamed the rest of the time
twice they ordered the same parts. I am guessing they messed up the first set of clutch plates.
If anyone can correlate how many of what part to check would be cool. I am leaving off the misc other crap they installed

Part # Quantity Description
11482-48G00 1 Gasket, clutch cover
21451-48G10 2 Plate, clutch DR
21441-48G00 5 Plate, clutch DR
21413-48G00 6 clutch Springs
21471-48G00 1 Seat, Wave washer?
21472-48G00 1 Washer, clutch P...
and then the extras??
21451-48G10 1 Plate, clutch DR
21441-48G00 4 Plate, clutch DR
 

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Crazyspeed said:
Wait until you put some serious power to an aftermarket clutch, then the OE quality will come out.
The guy that did my clutch replacement suggested the EBC parts for my bike. He's on his 2nd VS800. His first one went 135,000 miles. The EBC went in at 32,000 miles. The 2nd bike has had 50,000 miles put on in the last two years (bought with 2500 miles) and its clutch was replaced near 34,000 mile mark.

However, I will concede that the VS800 makes nowhere NEAR the power of the M109R.

However, to blanketly state that OEM is better than aftermarket is a very, very brave statement. I worked in the auto industry (manufacturing) for 6+ years. I have friends that work in an oil filter plant in Murfreesboro, TN....and sometimes the only thing differentiating the filter they sell Nissan and aftermarket manufacturers...is the label/stamping.

Same with the dairy products. The factory I worked at was in front of a dairy plant. Buddy if mine's brother worked there. Same milk, different color jug & label: different price, even if jug & label cost the same. lol.
 

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wildwolf said:
The guy that did my clutch replacement suggested the EBC parts for my bike. He's on his 2nd VS800. His first one went 135,000 miles. The EBC went in at 32,000 miles. The 2nd bike has had 50,000 miles put on in the last two years (bought with 2500 miles) and its clutch was replaced near 34,000 mile mark.

However, I will concede that the VS800 makes nowhere NEAR the power of the M109R.

However, to blanketly state that OEM is better than aftermarket is a very, very brave statement. I worked in the auto industry (manufacturing) for 6+ years. I have friends that work in an oil filter plant in Murfreesboro, TN....and sometimes the only thing differentiating the filter they sell Nissan and aftermarket manufacturers...is the label/stamping.

Same with the dairy products. The factory I worked at was in front of a dairy plant. Buddy if mine's brother worked there. Same milk, different color jug & label: different price, even if jug & label cost the same. lol.
I read ya, I have a 400hp busa. OE cluthes are expensive. Testing and tuning you tend to burn up clutches, so I opt for the more inexpensive(aftermarket) clutches to try and get the set up right. The multistage clutch would literally destroy the aftermarket stuff in one after noon, where the OE would last the whole weekend and then some. As for my experience I would personally stick with OE clutch fibers and steels. Also, it does depend on what you are doing and what your riding style is ;)
 

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Crazyspeed said:
Wait until you put some serious power to an aftermarket clutch, then the OE quality will come out.
OE never held up on other modded bikes and thats when the Barnetts go in and never had problem after that. You really need the stiffer springs and Kevlar fiber discs to make a difference but it will take all the abuse you can hand it. just get the complete kit, springs, Kevlar fiber discs and steels all at once.
 

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steve j said:
OE never held up on other modded bikes and thats when the Barnetts go in and never had problem after that. You really need the stiffer springs and Kevlar fiber discs to make a difference but it will take all the abuse you can hand it. just get the complete kit, springs, Kevlar fiber discs and steels all at once.
Barnetts... 2 passes threw them in the trash, preasure plate springs are not the issue in a lock up clutch. A multi-stage lock up will put more abuse on a clutch than a stardard clutch set-up. I have a ton of 1/4 mile passes and went through many different clutch set ups, but what do i know ::)
 

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Crazyspeed said:
Barnetts... 2 passes threw them in the trash, preasure plate springs are not the issue in a lock up clutch. A multi-stage lock up will put more abuse on a clutch than a stardard clutch set-up. I have a ton of 1/4 mile passes and went through many different clutch set ups, but what do i know ::)
whoa, when did we ever say we were talking about lockup clutches? the start of this was talking about replacement of stock clutches. I have had some serious hp going through a couple bikes in the last 35 years and as far as standard multiplate multi spring not diaphram spring clutches Barnet KEVLAR with the springs and steels is the way to go. just been riding and wrenching for 35 years but what do I know. :dontknow:
 

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steve j said:
whoa, when did we ever say we were talking about lockup clutches? the start of this was talking about replacement of stock clutches. I have had some serious hp going through a couple bikes in the last 35 years and as far as standard multiplate multi spring not diaphram spring clutches Barnet KEVLAR with the springs and steels is the way to go. just been riding and wrenching for 35 years but what do I know. :dontknow:
Not cutting anyone down, I was just making the comparision with the multistage because it is so much harder on clutches than a stock set up. I all depends what you are trying to accomplish and how you ride the bike, stock or slightly modded some aftermarket would be alright :dontknow:
 

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Nobody has addressed the second part of the original topic... How hard are they to replace? Do you need specialized tools? Can you basically just follow some instructions and do it if you've never replaced a clutch before? Inquiring minds wanna know. :bigthumbsup:
 

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Medic1210 said:
Nobody has addressed the second part of the original topic... How hard are they to replace? Do you need specialized tools? Can you basically just follow some instructions and do it if you've never replaced a clutch before? Inquiring minds wanna know. :bigthumbsup:
Sevrice manual has good instructions and no special tools required Sir.
 
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