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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wondering which one? DLP has the C/house for $149 and the the performance springs for $8.95 but is that one the best out there? Only want to do this once and i'm looking for advice from some of you guy's thats been threw this. And where did you end up getting your's? And what did you pay for the one you got? Also when you did this, did you put the [Shift Star] in i've heard talked about, that makes shifting easyier?
I plan doing the job myself, I assume there is a how to within the search key I hope! Thanks guy's!
 

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TORQ, from what I've read on here the stock clutch plates are about the best of all of them. BigPapa has posted about it and several others.

The stock springs work well too. Those $8.95 springs are about 10% stiffer, the more expensive ones are about 20% stiffer. If you've never had slippage on your bike, I would stick with the stock springs. I have heard the cheaper springs loose their tension quicker.

The shift star is on the other side of the bike, so you can do it any time without messing with the clutch again.
 

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Wondering which one? DLP has the C/house for $149 and the the performance springs for $8.95 but is that one the best out there? Only want to do this once and i'm looking for advice from some of you guy's thats been threw this. And where did you end up getting your's? And what did you pay for the one you got? Also when you did this, did you put the [Shift Star] in i've heard talked about, that makes shifting easyier?
I plan doing the job myself, I assume there is a how to within the search key I hope! Thanks guy's!
Hey Bob...thanks for the voice mail by the way...you had me cracking up.

As Mike said, I have posted this a few times. Stay stock and don't go aftermarket. I have personally run the DLP clutch with mtc springs. After 3500 miles, it was having a severe clutch shudder problem. I went back to stock with stock springs and have been fine. On my bike, I have ridden 33 out of 37k miles with a stock clutch and it has been awesome.

In addition, I recently had to repair a clutch for someone on here named Gregg I believe. He had a harley mechanic do the clutch and a rack of other mods. the bike was butchered and Ryan and I went to go help him fix it. When Ryan and I were fixing the bike, I decided I should check out the clutch install and it was wrong. I fixed it, knowing it was right since I have done plenty of them. The clutch lasted 4 miles and grenaded. I went back up a week later, after he got stock parts, and replaced it. When I pulled it out, it was evident that the fibers had just ripped right off the steel. Not like it was burned up, there were absolutely no fibers. It looked as if it was a steel plate from the factory. Around the same time another user had the same issue with it. Stock is the way to go.

Shift star can be done whenever. I prefer to try and do them at an oil change as you lose a little oil when you remove the cover. No biggy, but I do it at oil change so I know the oil is back to the right amount. I have a write up on how to install it here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guy's, so I should go to Oneida Suzuki and just get a stock clutch replacement Correct? And i'd replace the spring's at the same time staying stock all the way. And Harris you being the master of clutch replacement do you have a how to on that project? And I will use the link you sent on the star mod! But how do you like it on your 9's?? Worth it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Zoom I have never had slippage but Shutter hell yea! But i'd like to know where you have bought the stock clutch. And what I should expect to pay.
 

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I agree with BP. I had a little shudder and changed to the MTC springs and the shudder got worse. Went back to stock springs and 13K miles and not an issue. I say use the stock springs.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 

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Zoom I have never had slippage but Shutter hell yea! But i'd like to know where you have bought the stock clutch. And what I should expect to pay.
Bob, I haven't bought one for mine. I've had it apart checking the tubular nut but it's still running the stock clutch.

Here's some good prices. It looks like #5 are the friction plates, and they list at $23.10. I'm assuming that is for the set of 5 plates. And you may need #10, which is $21.20. That's providing the steel plates are OK.

http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/parts-accessories/clutch-m109r-2006-09.html

Maybe BP can tell you if you need more parts, but that will replace the wear items. And I've read there is a new wave washer and at least one other part that helps with the shudder problem too.

 

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I don't think I quite understand the premise of what some of you are saying. You're saying if you replace the stock clutch parts with aftermarket parts the shudder gets worse, but if you replace the stock parts with exactly the same stock parts, it goes away? That doesn't make any sense, unless there's something different about the new stock parts as compared to the old ones.
 

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Bigpapa

Were you the one who said you experienced more clutch shudder using syn oil as compared to dino?
No, I never had clutch shudder with the stock clutch. Got it horrible with cycle house and mtc springs, went back to stock and it was gone.

I don't think I quite understand the premise of what some of you are saying. You're saying if you replace the stock clutch parts with aftermarket parts the shudder gets worse, but if you replace the stock parts with exactly the same stock parts, it goes away? That doesn't make any sense, unless there's something different about the new stock parts as compared to the old ones.
Explain how some bikes have absolutely no shudder their whole life while others have it, all with stock parts.

There is no explanation to know why it happens. There is a new wave washer and another part that Suzuki says fixes it, but who knows. I advice someone when doing the clutch, stay stock. I don't tell them that fixes the problem. However, I do say that I found going to aftermarket clutch made it happen for me.

So, if you are going to have to do a clutch, I recommend going stock. I suggest putting the fibers in oil for a couple weeks before doing it. Doubt it will help, but if you have time might as well.
 

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No, I never had clutch shudder with the stock clutch. Got it horrible with cycle house and mtc springs, went back to stock and it was gone.

Explain how some bikes have absolutely no shudder their whole life while others have it, all with stock parts.

There is no explanation to know why it happens. There is a new wave washer and another part that Suzuki says fixes it, but who knows. I advice someone when doing the clutch, stay stock. I don't tell them that fixes the problem. However, I do say that I found going to aftermarket clutch made it happen for me.

So, if you are going to have to do a clutch, I recommend going stock. I suggest putting the fibers in oil for a couple weeks before doing it. Doubt it will help, but if you have time might as well.
If you don't mind me asking, why did you change to aftermarket clutch parts if you weren't having problems with the stock clutch?
 

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If you don't mind me asking, why did you change to aftermarket clutch parts if you weren't having problems with the stock clutch?
My stock clutch cable was really tight when I bought it. I didn't know about it needing slack and after I broke the bike in, i raced a friend's ferarri a couple times. When I got on it, the clutch let go a few times and was never right after that. It usually would let go around 6k rpm's, under hard acceleration. At bike week in Ocean City, Md, I got into a race with a vrod, and then another race with 3 Harleys. I think I probably abused it pretty good after revving to 5 grand and slipping it out. Brought it up, whipped them and that was the end of it. Following weekend I went down to see another member on here and it was slipping on the highway. That was bought about 15k on it and I just switched to the cycle house clutch and mtc springs.

So, I always have that theory, go better when stock parts break. However, after thinking about my friends running 150 passes, low 9 second quarter miles, on their busas with stock clutch...no way this bike needs aftermarket for what we do.
 

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My stock clutch cable was really tight when I bought it. I didn't know about it needing slack and after I broke the bike in, i raced a friend's ferarri a couple times. When I got on it, the clutch let go a few times and was never right after that. It usually would let go around 6k rpm's, under hard acceleration. At bike week in Ocean City, Md, I got into a race with a vrod, and then another race with 3 Harleys. I think I probably abused it pretty good after revving to 5 grand and slipping it out. Brought it up, whipped them and that was the end of it. Following weekend I went down to see another member on here and it was slipping on the highway. That was bought about 15k on it and I just switched to the cycle house clutch and mtc springs.
Gotya! :bigthumbsup:
 

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clutch parts

Bob, I haven't bought one for mine. I've had it apart checking the tubular nut but it's still running the stock clutch.

Here's some good prices. It looks like #5 are the friction plates, and they list at $23.10. I'm assuming that is for the set of 5 plates. And you may need #10, which is $21.20. That's providing the steel plates are OK.

http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/parts-accessories/clutch-m109r-2006-09.html

Maybe BP can tell you if you need more parts, but that will replace the wear items. And I've read there is a new wave washer and at least one other part that helps with the shudder problem too.

23.10 for the 1 part but you have to have 5 pcs at 23.10 ,as of right now they have changed over 6 parts with a diff # for upgrade includeing the wave washer hope this helps
 
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