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It states to use SAE 90 hyopid oil that is GL-5 rated and to use SAE 80 in colder climates. The only place I have seen just SAE 90 is at the dealer. What is everyone using? I would prefer to use synthetic oil in the rear. I have Mobil 1 75w-90 synthetic gear lube, but it does not say anything about hyopid, of coarse it's GL-5 rated. And by the manual you have to change it at 600 miles, but never again. What's up with that?
 

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The rear can go a long time without changing. I've never changed it more than twice with my bikes. At 600 miles, the oil is stiil really clean, at least it looks that way. By the time it's due for a second change, the bike is already gone. ;D
Can't hurt to change it every 12,000 or so. Maybe every fourth oil change.
 
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I've used 75w90 in all of my bikes for years. I just changed it in the 109 at 500 miles with Motorcraft full syn. You might ask "Why Motorcraft". Cause I'm the parts manager at a Ford dealership ;). Any Gl-5 rated fluid whether it is straight 90 or a Multi-Vis 75w90 should be fine.
 

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rynosback said:
It states to use SAE 90 hyopid oil that is GL-5 rated and to use SAE 80 in colder climates. The only place I have seen just SAE 90 is at the dealer. What is everyone using? I would prefer to use synthetic oil in the rear. I have Mobil 1 75w-90 synthetic gear lube, but it does not say anything about hyopid, of coarse it's GL-5 rated. And by the manual you have to change it at 600 miles, but never again. What's up with that?
My manual has a service chart, change reardiff oil every 18000Kilometres or 3rd oilchange
Dave
 

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I went into my dealer and they had Yamaha shaft drive GL-5 rated oil..very good quality , enough for 2 -3 changes for $8.00 buck - 20% discount...(long time customer).
 

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EAGLEFAN67 said:
I went into my dealer and they had Yamaha shaft drive GL-5 rated oil..very good quality , enough for 2 -3 changes for $8.00 buck - 20% discount...(long time customer).
Just to everybody knows; GL-5 and "hypoid" are the same thing. Any gear oil that is rated GL-5 is a hypoid oil.
 

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Hypoid merely refers to the style of gear cut.

About the only time you have to worry about the GL rating is if it calls Strictly for GL-4. A GL-5 Does NOT automatically superceed this. GL-4 in many instances means that the item it is going in May have Brass, Bronze or Copper for shims or bushings and may not compatable with some of additives used in the lube.
 

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Oil Doc said:
Hypoid merely refers to the style of gear cut.

About the only time you have to worry about the GL rating is if it calls Strictly for GL-4. A GL-5 Does NOT automatically superceed this. GL-4 in many instances means that the item it is going in May have Brass, Bronze or Copper for shims or bushings and may not compatable with some of additives used in the lube.
Yes, and GL-5 means it's rated for hypoid gears. I posted this before because many folks get the idea that "hypoid" refers to the oil, not the type of mechanism. (So, Mobil1 75w-90 is good to use.)

I disagree with the second part of your post, though. If you don't use a GL-5 when it is called for, you may very well have problems. GL-4 is not the only rating you need to pay attention to.
 

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VZR1800 said:
The rear can go a long time without changing. I've never changed it more than twice with my bikes. At 600 miles, the oil is stiil really clean, at least it looks that way. By the time it's due for a second change, the bike is already gone. ;D
Can't hurt to change it every 12,000 or so. Maybe every fourth oil change.
mine as did others, looked like silver paint at 600 miles.
 

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Sorry if I wasn't clear... you are right... if it calls for a GL-5, that is what you need to run... But if Specifications call for a GL-4 It is usually because of the Brass/Bronze/Copper issue although many of the GL-5 products also carry a GL-4 rating, caution is advised to BE SURE..

Bob

Also, I believe the Intruder/ Boulevard Family calls for gear lube change ever 3rd oil change. I could be wrong but that is the info that was passed to me and if true, good chance of 109 being the same.
 

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I'm going to change my rearend oil because my dealer didn't do it for the 600 mile service. I know, I should have pressed, but the service was only $100 and the guy said that Suzuki uses synthetic and is better quality than the oil he would put in the rear. He said it was too early to change (I don't buy that, but I didn't argue). I figure it is so easy to change myself, it's almost dumb to pay somebody to do it. At least doing it myself assures me that qood quality synthetic oil is used. I do have a couple questions though. I've searched the other oil threads and saw no mention of these.

Do I need to drive around for a few miles to warm up the rear end oil like I would do if changing the engine oil?

I figure that leaving the bike on the stand will allow more fluid to drain out, but shouldn't I lift the bike off the stand when adding oil to the fill hole?

Thanks in advance.

Mike
 

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Medic1210 said:
Do I need to drive around for a few miles to warm up the rear end oil like I would do if changing the engine oil?
Definitely.

Medic1210 said:
I figure that leaving the bike on the stand will allow more fluid to drain out, but shouldn't I lift the bike off the stand when adding oil to the fill hole?
Definitely again.
 

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Wanted said:
Definitely.

Definitely again.
I'm gonna assume that the first "Definitely" was meant to be for the riding around to warm the oil in the rear. You quoted the same thing twice. :bigthumbsup:
 

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...not sure if this applies to the M109R or not, but thought I'd share.

The Clymers manual for my VS800 states to run it for about 15 minutes before changing.

It also, however, states that you should let the bike cool for a 'a few minutes' before checking the final drive oil level.

...although, I'm going on this from memory, so if somebody knows differently, please let me know.
 

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...so basically I think what it's trying to say is if you're just riding down the road...and think it might be low for some reason and are not changing it, let it cool downa bit before you check the fluid level.
 

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What it's trying to say is "warm enough to flow out easily, not hot enough to burn you".

Even the drain and fill plugs get hot enough to leave a mark right after a ride.
 

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the fluid level tends to be on the low end delivered too. I checked my rear diff and motor oil to see how much came out and the rear only had 5oz, book recommends 7 oz. thats what I put in, 7oz of Amsoil and it was right up the the top of the fill plug with the bike upright. motor oil was 4 qts coming out after draining both with it on the sidestand then standing it upright to help.
 
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