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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you will recall, I started a thread a while back about the extremely poor condition of the rear end oil when I dumped it at 600 miles.

Supposedly, the rear end oil only needs to be changed every 12,000 miles. But since it was so filthy last time, I decided to take a look at it tonight, a little over 900 miles later.

HOLY CRAP... it is still DISGUSTING. Black, and loaded with silver streaks. Not quite as bad as the first time, but still really, really bad.

There is SOMETHING going on with the rear end of these bikes. Either the differential was full of shavings from the manufacturing process, or they are coming off while riding.

As soon as I have time, I am going to see if I can remove the hub and see what the hell is going on. By the way, I would appreciate any tips from those who have already removed a hub on this bike.

CHECK YOUR REAR OIL, guys. It's only a couple of bucks a quart.
 

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How should it look? My last bike was a BMW, they all have shaft final drive systems. Whenever I went into the final drive to check the oil it was black. I think maybe you need to unclench Wanted, i beleive this to be normal.
 

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There are shims or the run in play and it sounds like maybe your's was not setup right to start with if your getting that much contamination.
By the way I'm still trying to stab my driveshaft into the u-joint. :swear: :realmad: :edit: :cus: :verymad: :confused: :mad: :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
pizzmor said:
How should it look? My last bike was a BMW, they all have shaft final drive systems. Whenever I went into the final drive to check the oil it was black. I think maybe you need to unclench Wanted, i beleive this to be normal.
Is is supposed to look like silver paint? I don't think so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Lamonster said:
There are shims or the run in play and it sounds like maybe your's was not setup right to start with if your getting that much contamination.
By the way I'm still trying to stab my driveshaft into the u-joint. :swear: :realmad: :edit: :cus: :verymad: :confused: :mad: :(
I don't know what you mean by the "shims or the run in play". Could you please clarify on that a little bit?

Also, this is why I'm afraid to go messing with the hub. I don't want to spend the next two weeks trying to put it back together!
 

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Oh silver paint....yeah that might be a problem. In the original post you said silver streaks...which is it? Maybe this is the Jesus bike comments coming back to haunt you... :evil:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
pizzmor said:
Oh silver paint....yeah that might be a problem. In the original post you said silver streaks...which is it? Maybe this is the Jesus bike comments coming back to haunt you... :evil:
Okay, let me be a little more precise. The oil I removed is a very, very dark grey color with silver "marbling" through it. If you smear it out, you can see the very, very tiny metal particles in there.
 

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I would say that is not normal. I would keep your oil that was drained out in case it needs to be tested latter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It would be interesting to see if this is happening to anyone else. I plan to keep a very close eye on it.
 

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Lamonster said:
There are shims or the run in play and it sounds like maybe your's was not setup right to start with if your getting that much contamination.
By the way I'm still trying to stab my driveshaft into the u-joint. :swear: :realmad: :edit: :cus: :verymad: :confused: :mad: :(
This could definitely delay release of the mod rim! Wish I had a factory service manual or blue print of the drive shaft, seal, lock ring and inner shaft tube. I know you're a excellent "wrencher" but sometimes a third eye can offer some assistance. One possible suggestion.....the shaft tube is aluminum and the shaft itself is steel. Would a large welders magnet placed along the outside of the shaft tube, at the point where the male portion of the shaft enters the spline, help in alignment???? By manipulating the magnet about the housing it may provide just enough internal movement to line things up.
 

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Wanted said:
I don't know what you mean by the "shims or the run in play". Could you please clarify on that a little bit?

Also, this is why I'm afraid to go messing with the hub. I don't want to spend the next two weeks trying to put it back together!
You need to get you a shop manual and it will give all the details. Bottom line is you shouldn't need to know about shims, this is a new bike and the dealer should be taking care of this. ::)
 

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bob109 said:
This could definitely delay release of the mod rim! Wish I had a factory service manual or blue print of the drive shaft, seal, lock ring and inner shaft tube. I know you're a excellent "wrencher" but sometimes a third eye can offer some assistance. One possible suggestion.....the shaft tube is aluminum and the shaft itself is steel. Would a large welders magnet placed along the outside of the shaft tube, at the point where the male portion of the shaft enters the spline, help in alignment???? By manipulating the magnet about the housing it may provide just enough internal movement to line things up.
The problem is as soon as you touch the driveshaft if falls one way or the other. I may grind the end a bit today to see if that helps. ::)
 

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this was from another post about putting driveshaft in, you might have already seen it?

Re: My Silver Bullet in chrome
« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2006, 06:10:18 AM »

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I pull them off myself and it ran me $500 for the wheels and $50 for the hub. If you do yours, here's a tip, the final drive hub and driveshaft comes off easy but re-stabbing the driveshaft was hard to do , you may get lucky, I sure didn't have any luck getting it done. The easiest and fastest way was to pull off the Secondary drive gear first, which is direcrtly linked to the universal yoke joint in front of the swingarm. You simply remove the plastic cover next to the crankcase(three screws), remove the small hex holding the oil plug with wires on it, then the four bolts holding the gear box. The uni joint will be right on that. Re-mount your Final drive and drivre shaft and take the uni joint from the Sec Drive Gear and slide it onto the end of the drive shaft at this end of the swingarm and now put the Secondary gear back onto the uni joint and slide the box back into place, re-bolt the box and re-add the oil, about two ounces, cause when you remove the gear the oil will come out but not much. Its the same oil you'll use when you remove and dis-assemble the Final drive Propeller gear for chroming. Oh yeah on the Final drive Propeller gear there are two screw holes that you use to pry the gear from the hub after you remove all the screws. you find the screw that fit into the holes and simply screw them in at the same time and it will lift itself right out. But Overall it was easy to do.
 

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Wanted,

None of us are professionals, no matter what we may post. The main thing you must keep in mind here is this, if you have a major final drive problem and it is not addressed by Suzuki there is a good chance the final drive could fail and lock up on you. If that happens you are screwed and no matter how much you pull in the clutch handle or anythign else, the end will stay locked up. Call Suzuki asap: 1-800-444-5077, and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Lamonster said:
You need to get you a shop manual and it will give all the details. Bottom line is you shouldn't need to know about shims, this is a new bike and the dealer should be taking care of this. ::)
Yeah, I do have the shop manual and checked it out last night. They go through an entire rear end teardown and rebuild. WOW... I was boggled just by the vast array of special tools that are required.
 

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headvince said:
this was from another post about putting driveshaft in, you might have already seen it?

Re: My Silver Bullet in chrome
« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2006, 06:10:18 AM »

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I pull them off myself and it ran me $500 for the wheels and $50 for the hub. If you do yours, here's a tip, the final drive hub and driveshaft comes off easy but re-stabbing the driveshaft was hard to do , you may get lucky, I sure didn't have any luck getting it done. The easiest and fastest way was to pull off the Secondary drive gear first, which is direcrtly linked to the universal yoke joint in front of the swingarm. You simply remove the plastic cover next to the crankcase(three screws), remove the small hex holding the oil plug with wires on it, then the four bolts holding the gear box. The uni joint will be right on that. Re-mount your Final drive and drivre shaft and take the uni joint from the Sec Drive Gear and slide it onto the end of the drive shaft at this end of the swingarm and now put the Secondary gear back onto the uni joint and slide the box back into place, re-bolt the box and re-add the oil, about two ounces, cause when you remove the gear the oil will come out but not much. Its the same oil you'll use when you remove and dis-assemble the Final drive Propeller gear for chroming. Oh yeah on the Final drive Propeller gear there are two screw holes that you use to pry the gear from the hub after you remove all the screws. you find the screw that fit into the holes and simply screw them in at the same time and it will lift itself right out. But Overall it was easy to do.
Nope I missed that. Thanks :bigthumbsup:
 

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Mine was changed at 320 miles. Very dark with silver streaks. I have yet to drive it yet because I stripped my oil pan and it's getting rethreaded and won't be back untill Tuesday. I should have 600 miles on it by next weekend and will change the gear oil again and post what it looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
L-Train said:
Mine was changed at 320 miles. Very dark with silver streaks.
Yes, exactly what mine was like. I wasn't too worried the first time, since the bike was just past break in point. But I was pretty surprised to see it like that again after only 900 or so additional miles. I am thinking maybe there are some remaining junk in the drive.

Just wanted to post this so that some poor guy wouldn't wait for a year to look at it.
 
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