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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK I want to know what you guys think of this situation:

here's a pic from RD's website of their adjustable bones, note the construction and the bolts used.


here's a pic of the actual product, they are slotted on BOTH sides. I matched them up with my stock bones and marked their position for future refrence, then I matched them up with my 2 inch bones (pictured) and marked them again, the longer the distance between where they attach to the bike the lower the drop.



now for my problem, with the size of the washers supplied and the heads on the bolts I cant go any further due to the bolts/washers coming in contact with eachother before you can go any further, I will have to replace the nuts and bolts with something like what is pictured on RD's site in order to get a full 3inches of drop.
I also worry about the structural integrity of the bones being spread that far apart with BOTH sides being slotted and the bolts being so close together in the middle. it seems like what they had pictured is a little more solid. :dontknow:

My first instinct was just replace the bolts and be done with it, but for what I paid for the ****** things shouldn't they be right the first time?
more pics to come...
 

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??????:edit::agree::agree::agree: i just got mine last night. I started to worry about it it just looks like it is a cheaply made one but the one it the pic looks different, i just know from working in the aircraft world all bolts have shear and tension ratings so if you are going to replace them, we need to find out what the bolt rating is i will look again when i get home the head should be marked but i am only familar with aircraft head markings so i dont think they would be the same, but i considered returning them, they made it seem like it would be easy to drop and raise your bike, one of the bones should have been machined so that you could somehow drop it by only tighten one side bc now you have to get a wrech on both sides and you would have to take all the stuff off to do so, they told me on the phone when i ordered you could raise and lower the bike in 15 20 mins yeah maybe true but not the take all the stuff back off to get the bones, keep me inform on what you come up with,

:dontknow::dontknow::dontknow:
 

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Ok also mine can in a box with nothing else not install instructions or maybe a picture on how to set the ride height. 1/4 to 3" I think I will be returning these. Also what are
the bolts in the middle torque to see I have no info at all that is crap I don't feel like they would be safe bc of you over torque the they could bind and the tension could break the bolt but if under torque then it could slide down and or apart
 

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I have a set also. But I got mine two years ago. It seems they keep changing them, and the bolts. You have to remember who makes these, and what else have they done. All the bad press they have gotten tells me to stay away. I did not know this when I got mine. I will be selling mine, and getting air ride (in the future). Good luck guys.
 

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Installed these on my bike a year ago....still happy

OK I want to know what you guys think of this situation:

here's a pic from RD's website of their adjustable bones, note the construction and the bolts used.


here's a pic of the actual product, they are slotted on BOTH sides. I matched them up with my stock bones and marked their position for future refrence, then I matched them up with my 2 inch bones (pictured) and marked them again, the longer the distance between where they attach to the bike the lower the drop.



now for my problem, with the size of the washers supplied and the heads on the bolts I cant go any further due to the bolts/washers coming in contact with eachother before you can go any further, I will have to replace the nuts and bolts with something like what is pictured on RD's site in order to get a full 3inches of drop.
I also worry about the structural integrity of the bones being spread that far apart with BOTH sides being slotted and the bolts being so close together in the middle. it seems like what they had pictured is a little more solid. :dontknow:

My first instinct was just replace the bolts and be done with it, but for what I paid for the ****** things shouldn't they be right the first time?
more pics to come...
It's One year later and I'm still happy with the product. I opened them as much as the bolts allow before they touch together, which I think gave me around 3". This was the initial setting to see how I would like it. I still have them at this setting. It looks awesome! But BEWARE! This position will require alot more caution when riding through dips, as it will bottom out. Forget about riding 2 up at this setting. That's what appealed to me about these bones. I can adjust them whenever I want. Still cheaper than Air ride!..just not as convenient. However, once you set 'em you, forget 'em. :bigthumbsup: NOTE: Don't forget to grind off the 4 threads on the bolts inside the middle of the fender to avoid potental damage to that nice, wide tire. (I have No marks on my 250 dunnie) I hope this info helps.

mrhp
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the info gentlemen

something I forgot to mention in the pics are the arrows, the red arrow is for the stock height that I marked, the green is a 2 inch drop.
however because of the bolts and washers being so wide that is as far as I can go. I got them so I could drop the bike another inch for cruises and bike shows. but with the supplied hardware, 2inches is the MAX.
 

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but i have mine right here and they measure 4 7/8 hole to hole and i think if i remember right 5'' bone is a 3 inch drop
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think my main problem is the size of the washers, hell, I only need another 1/4 inch and I'm there.
I'm begining to agree with FF as far as RD's track record.:-X
 

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I think my main problem is the size of the washers, hell, I only need another 1/4 inch and I'm there.
I'm begining to agree with FF as far as RD's track record.:-X
the guys at Metric Fats, have great customer service, it is too bad they are selling RD's crap product.
 

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Are those made out of aluminum or steel? If they are steel I wouldn't worry about the size of the washer, put something smaller on that fits. It looks like most of the holding is done by the serrations in the parts, where they match up. Even extended all the way out it looks like there is still plenty of engagement left.

If they were mine I'm not sure I'd worry too much even if they were aluminum, as long as it was at least 6061 or better. Keep in mind these are under compression, with the weight of the bike resting on them, so even if the serrations gave way it would just drop to it's shortest length and the bike would raise up.
 

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the bolts should be holding the two pieces together, not keeping them from sliding. The seration will keep it from sliding. I would go with a grade 5 or better bolt or more likely an allen head cap screw ( usually grade 9) I would be more concerned about the engagement being long enough. If they are aluminum the relatively short engagement could cause them to break off, if steel then no worries. I don't think the serrations will break but rather the place where the serrations are, doesn;t have a ton of strength.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
They're aluminum, if they were steel I'd have already just slapped some different bolts on 'em
 

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Let's address one question, comment, opinion here at a time.

Draggin, Zoom, MHRP have it right.

1) I believe ey3les is comparing to bones that are greater than a 2" drop.
2) If they are "short" the slop in the washers will allow the bolts to get close enough to get you the 3". But as been said, BEWARE!, fender bolts could very easily hit your tire.
3) They ARE 6061 (aircraft grade) aluminum.
4) The teeth ARE the structural strength in these, the bolts just hold them together. For those that want to do a little homework, the teeth that are engaging for the bone adjustment work basically like threads. Figure out the surface area, pitch, depth, etc. and you will find these bones are good for more load (about 4000#) than your bike will ever see. If it will have more than that on it, time to buy a truck.

We have had 1 failure out of the hundreds we have sold. That one was traced back to a bad weld done by an employee that no longer works for us. We now only allow 2 of our certified welders to assemble these and have not had a single issue otherwise.

I understand someone called our shop yesterday and asked what the torque of the bolts should be. When told, they wanted to know if that was on the bolt or the nut. :eek:
 

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RAWONE,
being how I was the first one to call you out, please allow me to say..

PROPS bro :bigthumbsup:

It is great to see you on here answering these questions, and helping those out that need it.

I will also add that I have never had an issue with my set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
RAWONE,
being how I was the first one to call you out, please allow me to say..

PROPS bro :bigthumbsup:

It is great to see you on here answering these questions, and helping those out that need it.

I will also add that I have never had an issue with my set.
:agree:
Let's address one question, comment, opinion here at a time.

Draggin, Zoom, MHRP have it right.

1) I believe ey3les is comparing to bones that are greater than a 2" drop.
2) If they are "short" the slop in the washers will allow the bolts to get close enough to get you the 3". But as been said, BEWARE!, fender bolts could very easily hit your tire.
3) They ARE 6061 (aircraft grade) aluminum.
4) The teeth ARE the structural strength in these, the bolts just hold them together. For those that want to do a little homework, the teeth that are engaging for the bone adjustment work basically like threads. Figure out the surface area, pitch, depth, etc. and you will find these bones are good for more load (about 4000#) than your bike will ever see. If it will have more than that on it, time to buy a truck.

We have had 1 failure out of the hundreds we have sold. That one was traced back to a bad weld done by an employee that no longer works for us. We now only allow 2 of our certified welders to assemble these and have not had a single issue otherwise.

I understand someone called our shop yesterday and asked what the torque of the bolts should be. When told, they wanted to know if that was on the bolt or the nut. :eek:
that's alot of weight off my mind, however there is NOT enough play in the washers (not the lock washers) to go any further without grinding a couple of flat spots into them where they're touching, as said before I only need another 1/4 inch of length. i'm well aware of the inside of the fender and that will be taken care of:bigthumbsup:
so long as the quality of the aluminum is there, I don't think this will be a problem.

Thanks RAWONE :bigthumbsup:, I'd have called you guys first but wanted to get a feel for what the guys around here were experiencing before making that call.
 

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U think they should even be considering changing the bones by themselves lol hope not that might not be too good
 
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