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Unless you find out what happened to the oil pressure your new fix may suffer the same failure. Good luck!
Rattling from right side of m109r
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The push pin mod involves grinding 3 flats on the sides of the clutch push pin to allow more oil into the clutch basket. This helps fix the clutch shudder issue. But it's been said, and maybe even proven, that grinding too much off and letting more oil into the clutch reduces the amount of oil going to the heads. That may or may not be what happened to yours, but it sure looks like there wasn't much oil getting up there.
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The clutch pin modification involves grinding 3 flats down the length of the push pin (in the centre of the clutch) to allow more oil into the clutch but I believe it can take pressure off the feed to the top end of the engine.
The modification in well documented on here if you do a search and it might be worth stripping the clutch to see if a previous owner has done the modification.
The modification in well documented on here if you do a search and it might be worth stripping the clutch to see if a previous owner has done the modification.
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Thanks we will look into that since we have the engine open. Thanks for sharing this I am the third owner of the bike so pretty much we going through the whole engine.
You may be better off getting a replacement engine and be done with it, oil starvation like that will almost certainly have damaged other engine parts....I'm with Zoom, amazed it didn't lock up solid....what does the other head & cams look like.??
Smithy,
Smithy,
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Engine still being rebuilt every thing is looking good thus far my friends. Almost done it seems the rear head suffered all the damage. Front head was taken apart and examine. The work you see includes all new gaskets, cams, heads, and pistons. My mechanic says no need for another engine just inherited an unknown problem with your engine you know your problem. Next time check your damn oil!!! I truly appreciate him all this is going to cost me a case of beer as long as I help him when he works on it. And honestly I love it because I am learning so much about that powerful engine.
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I'm glad to see that the damage is much less than one could think about 
.
Also the crankcase was inspected?
I'm curious about the oil. You said that you had 3.3 L of oil in the engine, not far from the required 3.6 - so why did you say to check the oil level? For me 3.3 L of oil should not be low enough to cause oil starvation in the engine? Or was the oil pump that might have failed?
Thanks and good continuation.
.Also the crankcase was inspected?
I'm curious about the oil. You said that you had 3.3 L of oil in the engine, not far from the required 3.6 - so why did you say to check the oil level? For me 3.3 L of oil should not be low enough to cause oil starvation in the engine? Or was the oil pump that might have failed?
Thanks and good continuation
.
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You sound like my mechanic now before he even started work. Every time I ask him what he thinks happen he tells me; “the past is the past used the present to learn and prevent this from happening in the future, and if it does l am on my own. Now work on pulling that part so you can learn how it functions.” He’s been working on bikes for over 15 years. Like he says, “this is a total rebuild so whatever happened to cause it to happen it will be no more.” I’m glad he is teaching me because as he say not everything is as major as it seems and if you know what to look for in these engines 80 percent of motorcycle problems can be fixed by the owners if they would learn there bikes and follow both the owners manual and more importantly the service manual that comes with your bike. That is why mechanic shops charge the public so much to work on their bikes. Dude, I’m not worrying about what happen to get me here anymore, and in a crazy way I am thankful because now I know both inside and outside of that motor. So I thank God for the mechanic shops not accepting my bike to work on, because I’m getting hands on knowledge of how theses 109 cubic engine work and all its costing me is a case Coors beer!!!!!
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My only comment would be, remember not oils are equal, I run a fully synthetic race oil, others will have different views, go with what you believe is best but don't go cheap.
I use nothing but full synthetic , moto specific oil. Be sure the race oil you choose doesn't need replacing more than usual , some are meant to be changed more frequently than normal and don't have the detergents in them.
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Silkolene Pro 4 10w40
I've found when using Silkolene the shifting starts getting notchy faster than a lot of other oils. They all meet the same standards , it's ludicrous to pay more for a name , especially when it's clearly inferior. I won't recommend an oil brand to use , but I will recommend one not to.
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Me too.
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