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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was heading home from work when my m109r started to have a rattling sound from the right side of the engine. Didn’t have a change in the shifting of my clutch nor did I lose any engine compression. The rattling sound remains the same when I engaged and disengage my clutch. The sound remains the same when I rev up my throttle. M109r rode home as usual only for the rattling sound. Like I said it runs fine outside of the rattling sound coming from the right side of the engine only. Some of my friends say it is the tubalur nut that’s loose in the clutch; but I don’t have no problems shifting my gears. One of my buddies say it’s the exhaust valve that is loose, but it runs mechanically fine outside the rattling. Has anyone ever had this problem before and if so how did you fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello to you too... and welcome to the forum..Cheers.. 🍻
As much as we would like to troubleshoot your problem
over the net, It would be a guessing game without hearing
it. I suggest to try to videorecord it with the sound on.
IMHO I would not ride it much before you know what it is.
It is not a big job to open the clutch side and physicaly
see, if possible, what it is before more damage happens...
Thank you for the welcome
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Welcome. That sounds terrible. Take a long screwdriver, put the handle to your ear, then touch the tip to areas where you think the sound is coming from. It will act like a stethoscope to pinpoint the sound. Or if you have a Harbor Freight close by, they sell a real one for cheap.
I hate to make guesses, but if it's in the area you think it is, the most likely problem is the valve train. Either a cam chain got really loose, a valve bucket kicked out, etc. I'm assuming the rattle increases in step with the rpm? If it doesn't, then it could be something in the exhaust.
It doesn’t increase the rattling everything works correctly except for the sound
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
[QUOTE="Tolov0007, post: 4019658, member: 93331"
Had another set of ears to listen to the bike. The rattling sound does vary with revs. Also it was listen with a mechanical scope the rattling is coming from the top of rear cylinder. Oil was drain and measured 33.5 ml.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
33.5ml is less than a shot of liquor... EEK...
Thank you for all the replies in trying to help me discover what is the problem with my bike. Had a mechanic listen to the bike and inspect it. Also he told me that if you are going to go on forums and ask people to help you tell them everything about the bike. The bike has 30,000 miles on it, I’m the third owner and the correct level of the oil that was drain from the oil change last week was 3300 ml (100 ml short) probably to prevent plunking out the left air filter that I had previously. He determined that since the bike has never had any valve adjustments that could be the problem. So tomorrow morning the bike will be towed to repair shop. I will keep you all updated on the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Okay I said I would give you all a update from the shop. Well, the only thing they determine was the sound is coming from the upper head ( possibly valve) the problem is no shop want to pull the engine to see what’s the real issue. I have been to all the shops in the New Orleans area. No one wants to deal with an internal engine issue that be a shim or tappet problem. Everyone is amazed how the bike is running so good for that tapping sound, but no one wants to pull the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
That who I am talking about the owner tells me it’s a three month wait plus they getting inventory for the holidays basically saying in a polite way I don’t want to deal with it. Crazy part about it all and how good GOD is I just ordered a complete top rear cylinder head with everything I need ( valves, cams, shim, tappet, head) Just pull off the bad head put on the new head. I’m thinking about pulling out the motor myself if I can’t find a mechanic to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Yeah that’s what I say definitely don’t want the money because I’m willing to pay but even telling them that it’s another excuse not to do the job. We have two authorized dealer here and neither wants to touch it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Pull the engine myself and this was the problem. I think I might have double posted ( so sorry if I did had trouble trying upload the picture). My question now; since all is new to me, do I have to release the pressure on the valves by opening the clutch case or can I just replace the camshaft journal holder without removing the clutch case. Thanks and sorry again
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I've heard if you overdo the clutch push-pin mod it can starve the rear cylinder top end of oil.
Can you explain that little bit more about what you just said because I have finally found a mechanic to do the work with me ( which makes my life easier). This is his opinion of what happened; the upper head cracked because of lack of oil, we have pulled out the entire rear cylinder head and will be replacing the entire upper head as well as the oil pump. Right now we are having a problem finding a rear intake cam. Thank you for replying but please explain the clutch issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Here are some pictures of damage, yes the bike still ran perfectly as seen in the video I first posted. The rattling is the sleeve that came loose and grinding is the intake valve digging into the cylinder head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
The clutch pin modification involves grinding 3 flats down the length of the push pin (in the centre of the clutch) to allow more oil into the clutch but I believe it can take pressure off the feed to the top end of the engine.
The modification in well documented on here if you do a search and it might be worth stripping the clutch to see if a previous owner has done the modification.
Thanks we will look into that since we have the engine open. Thanks for sharing this I am the third owner of the bike so pretty much we going through the whole engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Engine still being rebuilt every thing is looking good thus far my friends. Almost done it seems the rear head suffered all the damage. Front head was taken apart and examine. The work you see includes all new gaskets, cams, heads, and pistons. My mechanic says no need for another engine just inherited an unknown problem with your engine you know your problem. Next time check your damn oil!!! I truly appreciate him all this is going to cost me a case of beer as long as I help him when he works on it. And honestly I love it because I am learning so much about that powerful engine.
 
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