4 is the stock setting. I seem to recall that 7 pointing down sets it to 4.You can look at the bones and tell if they are aftermarket or not. The stock bones have a cast finish on them, no shine. The aftermarket ones are machined and shiny, providing they aren't covered in dirt. Aftermarket also has a visible number stamped in them, though I can't recall exactly what the number is. The number is a model number and denotes the amount of drop. For instance,, 9307 may be a 1" drop and 9308 may be a 2" drop.
Yup, the aftermarket spring setup shows tubes way less exposed, question is, is the new setup allowing as much compression in the curve as te OEM? Maybe not, and therefore total bike "dip" innthe curve is less then OEM.. I am theoritising, I am not a biker, just an owner LOL..Oddly enough, since putting the Coastal Moto rims on my bike, 10 inch rear, 4.25 front, with 280/35 rear, 140/70 front, I have not been able to drag anything, even the pegs. The rear tire is worn all the way over to where the tread/sidewall interface is. Can't really go any further than that. My stock rear shock is on number one. The Race Tech fork springs for my weight, actually lowered the forks in the triple clamps. Still don't even drag the pegs. Just the heels of my boots.
Below are before and after pictures, specifically looking at the amount of fork stanchion tube metal exposed.
How much did you push the forks through the tripple trees more then OEMs are? On the pics one cannot see the difference... And my real surprise is, that you can shove the jack easier underneath the bike. Just saying....Rides fine. Better than it did stock. Also, as mentioned higher up, the first pic, I had to roll the bike on a piece of wood to get my jack under it. Second pic, no wood needed. Also, my forks are pulled up in the triple trees as far as they can go. I like the low rider look. A guy was passing my garage the other day, he loved the bike. Said he liked the long, low, and wide look. Said he'd never seen another bike like it. Told him "it's 15 years old".
That's because in the first picture, the forks were already shoved up as high as they could go. Did that, like the second or third day after I bought the bike.How much did you push the forks through the tripple trees more then OEMs are? On the pics one cannot see the difference... And my real surprise is, that you can shove the jack easier underneath the bike. Just saying....
That is probbably the reason... Most guys put on the ../60 tire.. But ../70, defeats the wish you said: " I like the low rider look"... I guess I am missing something...That's because in the first picture, the forks were already shoved up as high as they could go. Did that, like the second or third day after I bought the bike.
Jack rolls right under the bike. Never been easier. I believe the taller front tire is responsible. That 140/70 Metzeler is a pretty tall tire. Compare the two pics and you can see it. Wasn't sure I liked it at first, but it's grown on me.
1) On the wreck involving K (I'll just call him K... he was the first 109 involved wreckage from last year) we had just ridden through a more than quadruple S curve section of highway that led into a sharp left-hander with a bridge in it and then the road rose up with a hard bank right. The speed limit signs at that arear are at 15mph and what little bit I knew about K at the time...he was certainly going slower than that. K started laying it down at the end of the left-hander bridge and he separated from the bike and it slid off the right side of the road after the bridge. 35 miles after the beginning of our ride when I stopped for a bottle of Gatorade and to check on the 3 fellas following me to check on their riding preference for the day K informed me that he hated riding in curves and wanted to know what the rest of the day's riding was going to be like. 8 miles later he layed his bike down.1) Is the bike actually making contact with the road in the curve? Or were they just not making the corner and laying the bike down?
The M109 is a bear to get over in a tight curve until you get used to it. But the M109R is a bit like taking a corning in a Mac Truck compared to a lot of bikes out there.
2) Does the bike (or bikes) in question happen to have cobra hwy bars on them? (see photo below)
3) Something else you might want to check is the forks, take them apart and confirm they have the proper amount of fork oil in them. (or any oil at all for that matter)
While you have the forks out might not be a bad idea to change the fork seals for sure (since the bike is 15 years old) and even upgrade the springs. (Especially if the rider is more than about 175 #)
4) Upgrading the springs will stiffen up the front end a lot and keep it from being so squishy/springy, and will actually raise the front end just a bit if you cut the new preload spacers just right.
When you install new fork oil use 10w or heavier. (Stock is 5w I believe)
Few other thing I can think of you just feel you cant lay the bike over with confidence is......has he put new tires on the bike? If not he may want to do that. With only 12,000 miles on the bike it could be possible it has the original 15 year old front tire on it. Check the 4 digit code on the side of the tire to determine year of manufacturer. First 2 digits will represent the week and the second 2 digits will represent the year manufactured.
5) Maybe check wheel bearings and the neck bearings for the triple tree as well.
(But if you are tearing down the engine and rebuilding transmissions, you probably already got this).
6) The bike should certainly be able to grind the foot pegs in a corner though. Something else is making contact before you get to that point then there is an issue for sure.
7) Left side should be no problem to lay all the over and grind the peg, right side can be tricky sometimes depending on what exhaust you have on the bike.
Hey Pete,Hey John,
Welcome to the forum. I have also dragged hard parts (attached to the frame) while leaned WAY over, and it lifted the rear momentarily. Scary, but recoverable.
I agree with BCS that it is more likely that they weren't going to make the turn and laid it down, or panicked going into the turn and laid it down. This, especially with the guy on his maiden voyage.
I would not raise the bike. I would suggest that these folks take a motorcycle safety course, and spend a lot of time in a parking lot, doing figure 8s.
Just my two cents, YMMV.
Hey UVATom,The only things I will add is teach him what it is and practice counter steering. It is a must with this bike if you ask me. The 250 E3 rear is a little more "elliptical" than the normal motorcycle tire but I used it for many years with no issues. There are other brands that will help it turn a little easier. I have dragged to many things to mention on my bike over the years with and without the lowering bones and never had any issues with it kicking out from under me but it does get your attention. I put the stock ones back on because it wasn't worth it to me.
You can download the shop manual from here and figure out the rear shock setting. I don't remember the correct number facing down for the correct reading anymore.
Maybe test ride a new one to see if it's his bike or not.
I am attaching a pic of the bones and shock at the end of this post.You can look at the bones and tell if they are aftermarket or not. The stock bones have a cast finish on them, no shine. The aftermarket ones are machined and shiny, providing they aren't covered in dirt.
As I was disassembling the engine to get to the transmission, I inspected each piece as it came off. It was obvious that someone in it's past had accessed the clutch and the shift star trying to fix the problem with 2nd and 3rd gear the friction disc were new (steel plates were re-used and they were fine) and the scars from either a pair of vise grips or channel locks were still on the retention bolt/pin shaft that holds the star on to the end of the shift drum. Someone tried to do some 'external' fixes for the shifting problem on the bike. They didn't work.One more thing is since you put all that work in the transmission then you should also change the shift star. Some say it smooths out the 1st to 2nd shift in the older models.
Ha,There are some aftermarket transmission parts that will keep it from recurring. One is the solid shift rod that replaced the hollow one that allows for some flexing under pressure. I believe another is a hardened shift fork, but I am not 100% sure on that one. @bigpapaXCT should be able to tell you.
EDIT: I missed your post, @UVATom . I guessine is duplicate info.Tom.