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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Where can I find the video of the 25 second seat change? I want to find out about the metal bracket that was used. How it is connected to the seat??
 

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Material used, Stucco embossed Aluminum 0.7mm thick. Alternative 1.0mm thick normal aluminum plate. measure width and length on bike itself. One side riveted to the bottom of the passenger's seat while the other side have 3 nos. of holes to be hold on by the driver's seat.
Aluminum plate is used as it will never rust.
Thanks for appreciating the mod.;)
Have done over 100MPH with both the seat cover and passenger's seat intact. No worries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. I broke one of those soft screws off in the fender, so I think this may be a cheap fix and also a convenience.
 

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you have a picture of the under side of the seat with bracket ?

im not 100% sure about my passenger being held on with a couple of rivits
but that would be really sweet for the cowl
 

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I cut a long allen wrench in half on the grinder and chuck it up in the cordless. Pretty frikin' fast to switch seats.
Also, I'm wondering if you might get a rattle without the cowl bolted down tight?
 

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you have a picture of the under side of the seat with bracket ?

im not 100% sure about my passenger being held on with a couple of rivits
but that would be really sweet for the cowl
Here you go. The plastic for the seat is of good quality. With at least 50 to 100 kg weight sitting on it, it ain't going nowhere.;)
 

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I cut a long allen wrench in half on the grinder and chuck it up in the cordless. Pretty frikin' fast to switch seats.
Also, I'm wondering if you might get a rattle without the cowl bolted down tight?
The back seat cover doesn't rattle but the passenger's seat does( when no passenger at the back) when hitting very uneven road. I don't let it bothers me as it doesn't happens all the time.
 

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New quick change seat bracket

I'm new here and really like the idea of a quick changing seat bracket. My son does the CAD thing and designed a bracket that can be used on both the seat and cowling. Just print it off, glue it to the metal with spray or stick glue, and cut it out, and drill holes in both brackets. There are two bends required (trial and error). The passenger seat uses the existing cross metal bracket and two 1/4" bolts. The cowling uses 1/4" wood /metal screws into the plastic. I demo'd it with cardboard and it all lined up.

The only thing is, I thought of another, quicker way to change the seat. The best way to discribe it is to remember the 1970s muscle cars. They used pins in the hood with cotter pins. The current bolt holes in the M109 go all the through and out the bottom of the fender. I'm going to use an longer bolt and come up from the bottom and tighten them down. Then take a cotter pin and go through a pre-drilled hole. Then its just a quick pull of the pins, lift the seat, drop the cowling, and insert the pins. I'll probably string the pins together and loosely tie them to the frame. I might even drop a small spring on the bolt to give the seat/cowling a little tension against the cotter pin.

Out the two ways, the bolt and cotter pin (.68 cents at Lowes) would take less time, and should be more secure.

Cheers.
Jim
 

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I'm new here and really like the idea of a quick changing seat bracket. My son does the CAD thing and designed a bracket that can be used on both the seat and cowling. Just print it off, glue it to the metal with spray or stick glue, and cut it out, and drill holes in both brackets. There are two bends required (trial and error). The passenger seat uses the existing cross metal bracket and two 1/4" bolts. The cowling uses 1/4" wood /metal screws into the plastic. I demo'd it with cardboard and it all lined up.

The only thing is, I thought of another, quicker way to change the seat. The best way to discribe it is to remember the 1970s muscle cars. They used pins in the hood with cotter pins. The current bolt holes in the M109 go all the through and out the bottom of the fender. I'm going to use an longer bolt and come up from the bottom and tighten them down. Then take a cotter pin and go through a pre-drilled hole. Then its just a quick pull of the pins, lift the seat, drop the cowling, and insert the pins. I'll probably string the pins together and loosely tie them to the frame. I might even drop a small spring on the bolt to give the seat/cowling a little tension against the cotter pin.

Out the two ways, the bolt and cotter pin (.68 cents at Lowes) would take less time, and should be more secure.

Cheers.
Jim
Love to see the pictures when it is done. Thanks.
 
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