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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wondered if I’m correct that after installing the rear shock the bottom skid plate no longer can be fitted on the bike. On mine, after finishing the installation the hydraulic line interferes with the plate. Anyone else encounter this? I’m not really worried about it, but just wanted to confirm.
 

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That does not sound right. The skid plate is there to protect from bottoming out or hitting road debris.
If you have a hydraulic line now hanging below the skid plate level......it sounds like that line is now in a place where it could potentially become damaged.
Can the shock not be installed 180 from what you have it so the hydraulic line faces up instead of down?
The banjo fitting should be able to rotate 180 degree as well if its current position is in the way of you flipping the shock.
Can you post a photo of how you have it mounted?

BCS
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It’s actually the adjustment knob that is in the way. It mounts on the rectifier and ends up sitting too low to prevent the skid plate from mounting. I suppose I could try and find another location for it, but this is the way their instructions say to install the adjuster.
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It just doesn't seem right. I would think the RAP adjuster knob would be easy to reach when standing over the bike. I would try to find another location to mount it. I would also drill access holes in the skid plate if necessary to access the other adjustment points with the allen wrench.
 

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Hmm, not sure what to say about that then.
I personally would look for a better place to install that and put the skid plate back on.
I suppose you could get away with it as long you are aware its there and ride accordingly, but one good pot hole or speed bump might be the end of that there.
I know I have bottomed my bike out occasion before.

BCS
 

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When I fitted my Progressive 465 with RAP I cut off a small piece of the skid plate with a grinder to make it fit around the RAP adjuster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When I fitted my Progressive 465 with RAP I cut off a small piece of the skid plate with a grinder to make it fit around the RAP adjuster.
Ok. I can do that. I went out to the garage this morning and detached the adjuster to see if I could find another place for it but it’s a real head scratcher as there just aren’t any other great options. Especially given the size of the adjuster knob - it just doesn’t fit through many holes. I like the grinder idea better. I was also surprised at how close the front mount is to the engine. Even with the 20 degree offset from the nitrogen port it still looks close. Have you had any issues with it? I’m tempted to try to rotate it a little further than the 20 degrees since it’s directly under the through bolt for the rear motor mount and looks to only be maybe a half inch of clearance. I guess that’s why they put the caution at the bottom of the page:

“With the adjuster in the lightest/lowest setting (all the way counterclockwise) the installed spring length must never be set shorter than 158mm (6.23”) for 465-5010, otherwise shock damage may occur.”
 

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I'm sure when I fitted my 465 I had to slightly loosen one of the unions to move it to get a better fit. Other than that no problems at all.
 
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