Problem Gearbox? Clutch? Need Help
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I have no clue on your problem but i have to say GREAT idea on the video to show the guys on this forum what the bike is doing There is no doubt that someone here will be able to tell you the problem your having with your bike, L.T.T., WINDYCITY,HINK,ZOOM just to name a few people that came to mind just sit tight and wait for their responce.
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913 Posts
You have a driveline problem, either your primary drive or secondary drive. Not a clutch problem
It sounds like your secondary drive. Its easy to check your secondary drive to see if you lost any of the bevel gears in there.
Remove your chrome covers on your left side, underneath your key.
Your secondary drive the the rectangle box thats butted up to your swingarm. Its held on by 4 bolts and 1 sensor. Remove the 4 bolts and sensor and wiggle the secondary drive out. There should be two metal gaskets too. Be careful, there will be some oil in the secondary drive. There is a gear attached to the motor side, make sure all the teeth are on this bevel gear. There is a gear in the secondary drive, loot at all the teeth on that gear.
At this time you can inspect your u joint too, the part that attaches your propeller shaft to your secondary drive, make sure this is intact.
If there is no problem here, you will need to remove your rear wheel to check your final drive. After removing your rear wheel, remove the 3 acorn nuts holding on your final drive ( the gray hub that attaches to the wheel). With this off the bike, sit it upright and turn the propeller shaft and see if the gear turns easily ( the gear that attaches to the wheel).
If all this is fine, then your transmission is breaking. I dont have any answers for your trans. Sorry. If your bike in under warranty still, have suzuki look into that.
Just check your driveline first
It sounds like your secondary drive. Its easy to check your secondary drive to see if you lost any of the bevel gears in there.
Remove your chrome covers on your left side, underneath your key.
Your secondary drive the the rectangle box thats butted up to your swingarm. Its held on by 4 bolts and 1 sensor. Remove the 4 bolts and sensor and wiggle the secondary drive out. There should be two metal gaskets too. Be careful, there will be some oil in the secondary drive. There is a gear attached to the motor side, make sure all the teeth are on this bevel gear. There is a gear in the secondary drive, loot at all the teeth on that gear.
At this time you can inspect your u joint too, the part that attaches your propeller shaft to your secondary drive, make sure this is intact.
If there is no problem here, you will need to remove your rear wheel to check your final drive. After removing your rear wheel, remove the 3 acorn nuts holding on your final drive ( the gray hub that attaches to the wheel). With this off the bike, sit it upright and turn the propeller shaft and see if the gear turns easily ( the gear that attaches to the wheel).
If all this is fine, then your transmission is breaking. I dont have any answers for your trans. Sorry. If your bike in under warranty still, have suzuki look into that.
Just check your driveline first
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2,446 Posts
I believe the clutch hub nut is backing off. Doing what you did in your video is not a good idea---if this is true. How does your clutch feel at the lever? Same point of engagement when you let it out? Can you shift into any gear with little effort? Where does the noise sound most prominant, left side--right side? Not many '08's have the problem---possible yours is an early '08. This would also be known as the clutch tube nut. Secondary drive dog ears could be an issue also, but not as likely---you usually have no forward movement when they break off. Also a secondary failure would most likely not cause the engine to stall.
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1,458 Posts
Well not to argue anything here with Irish because my ears suck. But I noticed that first gear engagement was very harsh like it was shifted into gear with out the use of the clutch.Irish correct me if I am wrong here but say if it's not the Tube nut wouldn't it make the noise in the hub with the bike in Neutral if it was the drive? :dontknow:
I had the tube nut back off on my 08 at 1300 miles or 2092 km. It had symptoms like yours that started just a few miles or km before it finally backed off enough to cause problems and I had to ride home one night in 2nd gear. When I made it home anytime I shifted into gear it just died.
Listan 1 has a great write up on how to repair this if you feel up to it on your own. Just a few common tools needed. The only real thing that you must have is an impact gun and a 30mm socket. I was able to do the repair on the kickstand. I unbolted the exhaust and just swung them out of the way and laid them on a towel. 3 hours worth of work and 45 minutes was having to go to town and buy a 30mm socket for my impact gun.
Here is the link.
http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82993
Anyway with all of the info here and on the board if you feel up to it and have the mechanical ability you can do this yourself and not have to pay anyone to do it. Here in the states the dealers have either charged or offered half price to repair the tube nut issue as Suzuki does not want to take any responsibility with the issue. I think very few if any actually got it done under warranty.
I had the tube nut back off on my 08 at 1300 miles or 2092 km. It had symptoms like yours that started just a few miles or km before it finally backed off enough to cause problems and I had to ride home one night in 2nd gear. When I made it home anytime I shifted into gear it just died.
Listan 1 has a great write up on how to repair this if you feel up to it on your own. Just a few common tools needed. The only real thing that you must have is an impact gun and a 30mm socket. I was able to do the repair on the kickstand. I unbolted the exhaust and just swung them out of the way and laid them on a towel. 3 hours worth of work and 45 minutes was having to go to town and buy a 30mm socket for my impact gun.
Here is the link.
http://www.m109riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82993
Anyway with all of the info here and on the board if you feel up to it and have the mechanical ability you can do this yourself and not have to pay anyone to do it. Here in the states the dealers have either charged or offered half price to repair the tube nut issue as Suzuki does not want to take any responsibility with the issue. I think very few if any actually got it done under warranty.
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913 Posts
Na, you and FuturR are probably correct. A primary or secondary drive issue will not cause the bike the stall.
Take apart your clutch and inspect the tube nut. If thats not the case, then tear into your driveline.
That hurts just listening to it. 
I noticed the clutch still seems to release. Usually when the tube nut backs off the clutch won't release. It sounds like there is a lot of banging going on inside the gearbox or drivetrain once the clutch is released, which tells me it's either something in the gears, the secondary drive, or the final drive. I would do the easy part first and check the secondary drive, looking closely at the teeth on the gears and also the tabs on the driveshaft that engage it.
Put it on a lift and turn the rear wheel with it in neutral and see if you can tell where the noise is coming from. If it makes no noise that kind of rules out the secondary or final drives. The put it in gear and see how much slack is in the drivetrain when you rotate the wheel, trying different gears. All of them should allow the rear wheel to rotate very little, maybe 2" or 50cm at most. If it has a lot more slack in some gears than it does in others, the transmission is broken. Contact Hink about how his acted when it broke at the meet last year.
I noticed the clutch still seems to release. Usually when the tube nut backs off the clutch won't release. It sounds like there is a lot of banging going on inside the gearbox or drivetrain once the clutch is released, which tells me it's either something in the gears, the secondary drive, or the final drive. I would do the easy part first and check the secondary drive, looking closely at the teeth on the gears and also the tabs on the driveshaft that engage it.
Put it on a lift and turn the rear wheel with it in neutral and see if you can tell where the noise is coming from. If it makes no noise that kind of rules out the secondary or final drives. The put it in gear and see how much slack is in the drivetrain when you rotate the wheel, trying different gears. All of them should allow the rear wheel to rotate very little, maybe 2" or 50cm at most. If it has a lot more slack in some gears than it does in others, the transmission is broken. Contact Hink about how his acted when it broke at the meet last year.
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