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i know there are a lot of post about this but i still dont feel comfortable spending the money and not being sure. i have a 08 c109rt will the power commander v plug right in or would i have to do some wire splicing. also i have heard conflicting answers on how the autotune works if anyone has any info please message me i would like to get better answers before i spend $600 bucks for nothing.
 

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I can tell you without a doubt there are two wires that require splicing. The other two are plug straight in. The PCV comes with the clips to splice into the wires but still they are spliced. Look at this installation manual on page 4 steps 8 through 12. Now keep in mind, it's not just your model, this is how it has always been done. Just last week I changed out my PCIII for a PCV and it was the same on the PCIII. The splices were always part of the install. I have not installed the Autotune, so I can't comment on that yet.

http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/20-016/install/pcv/eng20-016.pdf
 

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i looked pretty hard at getting one for my bike. i even spoke to a local dealer who runs a portable dyno. he said that for the price the cobra fi200or would give me what i needed. he talked me out of the pcv. just food for thought. the cobra is also plug and play with minor tuning if even needed.
 

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i have the cobra unit and it is great. dont have to worry about maps for this and that or when i can get to the dyno. its just too easy to change from mod to mod. my vote. FI2000r.:bigthumbsup:
 

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i would like to get better answers before i spend $600 bucks for nothing.
I went with the Bully Controller as it has more tuning options than the FI2000 and can be adjusted while riding which has been handy when I want to push mpg's up.
 

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I went with the Bully Controller as it has more tuning options than the FI2000 and can be adjusted while riding which has been handy when I want to push mpg's up.
Hmmm interesting, can you give us a link?
 

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I don't have one so I can't shed any light on how it works or on the LED thing. I have heard good things about though & am leaning that way when the time comes for me to get a processor since it's supposed to be able to correct the lean vibe/surge I get at 55-60 in 5th gear as well
 

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Mfg. Part Number: BLSZ-150 Patent #’s: 7,000,599 & 7,124,742/Mfg. Part Number 9120089
The Bully for Suzuki Boulevard M109R / M109RT, 2005 - Current
The Bully interfaces with the Fuel Injection the same way re-jetting does with a carburetor.
The Bully is a plug-n-play Fuel Injection controller with a very simple installation procedure.
Installation Procedure:
1. Remove seat and/or seats, set aside.
2. Remove speedometer console, unplug electronics and gently lay in secure location.
3. Remove fuel tank by gently lifting rear of tank then unplug electrical and fuel line connections. Set tank aside.
4. Locate both FI Injector Plugs, disconnect electrical plug and insert the larger Bully plug in its place. Plug the
stock electrical plug into corresponding smaller connector on the Bully. Perform this step for both Injectors
remembering there is no left or right injector, both are the same.
5. Attach the Black ground wire from the Bully to an existing bolt on your motor, preferably around the cooling fins if
possible.
6. Choose the mounting location for your Bully. Typically mounting between the handlebar risers on top of the triple
tree if there is room. Or on Handle Bars using the Bully Holder. If mounting the Bully where visible while riding,
it’s is important to note it can be a distraction. Be safe!
7. Route the Bully wiring away from moving or hot parts, using zip ties to gently secure all wires.
8. Place fuel tank in front support brackets keeping rear of tank elevated while connecting electrical and fuel lines,
then bolt down tank in proper location.
9. Re-plug center console electrical, then gently set in place and secure to top of tank, if required.
10. Set seats in place and re-secure properly.
11. Start your Suzuki Boulevard M109R / M109RT noting the LED’s will scroll for about 5 seconds letting you know
the Bully is processing before showing 2-4 steady green lights depending on the idle speed.
12. The steady green lights are your approval to go riding. This is also the point where you can safely change
settings after you have ridden and want to fine tune. Remember no matter what settings you change you can
always go back to the lights as they were originally set.
13. DO NOT PROCEED UNLESS YOU HAVE A STEADY GREEN LED.
To change the Bully settings follow these steps:
To access each of the 6 Modes (Green, Yellow, Red, Green/Blue, Yellow/Blue, Red/Blue) simply start your bike, wait
for the scrolling to stop then press the MODE button. The Bully comes pre-programmed for Stage 3 and should match
those light settings. If you do not want Stage 3 you will need to change the settings using these steps so the lights match
your desired mode.
Each mode represents the following functions which will help with your tuning.
Green Mode. Fuel settings for idle/cruise and is represented by a flashing Green LED.
Yellow Mode. Fuel settings for acceleration and is represented by a flashing Yellow LED.
Red Mode. Fuel settings for full throttle and is represented by a flashing Red LED.
Green/Blue Mode. Adjusts what rpm the Bully comes on line. This adjustment is useful to determine if the Bully is
affecting the performance of your bike at low speeds or idle.
Yellow/Blue Mode. Is the Load Based adjustment for the Yellow Fuel mode. Adjusting the Yellow LED to a higher
number delays transition from Green to Yellow Fuel Mode. (Delaying transition into the Yellow
Fuel Mode can increase cruising fuel economy under steady throttle conditions)
Red/Blue Mode. Is the Load Based adjustment for the Red Fuel mode. Adjusting the Red LED to a higher number
delays transition from Yellow to Red Fuel Mode. (Delaying transition into the Red Fuel Mode can
reduce power during full throttle roll-ons, leaving this adjustment for the experienced dyno tuner
only)
Adjustments:
Your Bully comes pre-adjusted to Stage 3 for the more open intake and after market exhaust setup. When making
adjustments to the Bully it is recommend performing one change at a time and noting its affects on your ride/state of tune.
To make changes to the Bully on a bike Running Lean or with Lean Surging issues follow these steps:
· With engine idling, push the center Mode button once. The Green light (Green Mode) should start flashing, if not
push the mode button until only the flashing Green light appears.
· While the Green lights is flashing, push the (+) Right Button, adding fuel to the Green (Cruise) Circuit (the target is
to add enough fuel to stop the bike from it’s lean condition, usually adding 1 light will do the job)
· The Bully will reset itself to this new setting within five seconds of no button activity then the Green light will stop
flashing. (You can ride during the five second program acceptance period with no problem).
· Go for a ride, noting if the lean condition is minimized or stops. If not, add ½ light more and retest until satisfied.
Fuel Mileage Maximization: (Fuel Mileage Increasing)
To adjust for Maximum Fuel Mileage make sure the Green LED’s are displayed during your chosen reasonable cruising
speed. If the Yellow light is showing while at constant cruise, adjust the Yellow/ Blue Mode to a slightly higher Yellow
LED setting (Blue light does not adjust). This will move the cruising LED back to Green increasing fuel mileage at your
desired cruising range, possibly decreasing power slightly. To regain power change the Yellow/ Blue LEDs back to the
previous setting when the cruise portion is complete.
Helpful Information for Advanced Tuners:
· Familiarize yourself with how your bike feels running lean and rich so you know the difference so you can tune
accordingly.
· Most bikes perform best on the edge of leanness and even though extra lean can net better fuel mileage it can
also reduce performance, increase heat and shorten the bikes longevity.
· The Green, Yellow, Red Modes are Fuel Modes. Increasing/Decreasing LED’s for these Modes changes the fuel
used while in those modes.
· Green Mode should be considered Economy Mode, Yellow Accelerate Mode while Red is Wide Open.
· The Yellow/Blue & Red/Blue Modes are Load Based adjustments for transitioning between the Green to Yellow
and Yellow to Red Fuel Modes respectively. Increasing the Y/B and R/B LED’s increases required throttle
pressures to transition into the next higher fuel mode.
· For improved mileage (see info above) at the higher sustained freeway speeds when the Yellow LED’s are
showing, select Yellow/Blue Mode and increase the Yellow LED light. This will delay the transition to the
Accelerate Mode and move you into Green (cruise) Mode for better mileage.
· Remember to keep these instructions handy and if you get confused just restore the original light settings for your
Stage and try again. It’s that simple.
· Your light settings should never vary more than 1-2 LED’s either way for your selected Stage.
· LED’s during riding display pulse width. Pulse Width is basically how much fuel is being used. The more LED’s
that show means the more fuel being used at that time.
 
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