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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I cruised the different threads and couldn't find what I need. I was hoping someone on here would have a map that will work with my setup. 08' M109 with side burner exhaust, hyperchargers and PCV. I'm just trying to find something to hold me over until I can take it in to get it dyno'd. The PC website only has my pipe with stock intake.

Any help is appreciated :bow:
 

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If you got the PCV, then use the only map Dynojet has on there site for the Sideburner. That will hold you, you will just have a little popping, but it is not that bad.

Why pay to dyno it?

Get the autotune unit.
 

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If you got the PCV, then use the only map Dynojet has on there site for the Sideburner. That will hold you, you will just have a little popping, but it is not that bad.

Why pay to dyno it?

Get the autotune unit.
Agreed, get the Autotune. Not much more than one Dyno tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you got the PCV, then use the only map Dynojet has on there site for the Sideburner. That will hold you, you will just have a little popping, but it is not that bad.

Why pay to dyno it?

Get the autotune unit.
I was considering the autotune. Are you able to control if it tunes the bike for more performance vs fuel economy, or does it just tune however it sees fit and your stuck with it? Iv'e never fiddled with fuel injection before. Thank you for the input so far guys.
 

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I was considering the autotune. Are you able to control if it tunes the bike for more performance vs fuel economy, or does it just tune however it sees fit and your stuck with it? Iv'e never fiddled with fuel injection before. Thank you for the input so far guys.
I don't know exactly how it works yet as I have not purchased mine yet, but I know in the software there is a setting to allow the Autotune take data for a certain amount of time. I assume it has something to do with that. In other words let's say I want to run on the 1/4 mile. Maybe I set it up to Autotune during that time period which would set it up for those conditions? Same for fuel economy. Keep off the throttle hard while you are tuning it and save the map? I am just throwing out ideas here. I don't get the PCV until tomorrow and still have yet to order the Autotune due to a fender I bought last night.

Here is what I see on their website.

If fuel mileage is a concern then you can alter the Target AFR values in the cruise range. Dynojet considers the cruise range to be around 5-20% throttle. Dynojet does not recommend making the bike any leaner than 14.7 in the Target AFR cells.
•.Dynojet has found that for the best compromise of fuel mileage and throttle .response to set the cruise range to 13.7-14.0.
 

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You can set your target fuel ratio so you could tune for max power or best mpg.

It can hold 2 maps that you can toggle between, so keep one of each and choose on the spot how you are feeling.
 

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You can set your target fuel ratio so you could tune for max power or best mpg.

It can hold 2 maps that you can toggle between, so keep one of each and choose on the spot how you are feeling.
Cool, how does an idiot like me know what my target fuel ratio should be for any given situation? Any help in this matter would be appreciated.
 

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Down load and run the base map from the Dynojet page. Run gently to the dyno and get a tune done.

The Autotune isn't worth the drama. I should know, I've gone through it.

Dyno it and it's done properly. Autotune leave holes in the map it wrights.

13.7:1 - 14:1 are lean mixtures. If your going to do it, you'd want to run more like 12.5:1 - 12.8:1. Too lean will produce more power but burn much hotter.
 

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Down load and run the base map from the Dynojet page. Run gently to the dyno and get a tune done.

The Autotune isn't worth the drama. I should know, I've gone through it.

Dyno it and it's done properly. Autotune leave holes in the map it wrights.

13.7:1 - 14:1 are lean mixtures. If your going to do it, you'd want to run more like 12.5:1 - 12.8:1. Too lean will produce more power but burn much hotter.
Are you saying you had the auto tune and took it to the dyno and the fue/air mix was off enough that you adjusted the auto tune map. If so how much off. I know this isn't an exact science and there are variables.
Just asking.
 

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That's about it mate.

The Autotune, according to the tuner, worked well at top end on their race bikes but made it bog down at lower speeds.

I can agree that the Autotune isn't that great. I wrote a complete safe AFR table and the map was awful. Did a run on the Autotune map and it was ... bad.

The Autotune leaves gaps in the map.

I've done both. Hit the dyno for a result. If you get the display unit, then the Autotune can be used to see the AFR's.
 

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That's about it mate.

The Autotune, according to the tuner, worked well at top end on their race bikes but made it bog down at lower speeds.

I can agree that the Autotune isn't that great. I wrote a complete safe AFR table and the map was awful. Did a run on the Autotune map and it was ... bad.

The Autotune leaves gaps in the map.

I've done both. Hit the dyno for a result. If you get the display unit, then the Autotune can be used to see the AFR's.
I guess I am not understanding this. So you wrote the AFR table and the Autotune was bad? So you are saying you wrote the AFR table and the Autotune did not match the AFR table or you wrote the AFR table and the tune was bad? Two different things here and if the Autotue did not match the AFR you programmed then how do you know it didn't match it?
 

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I wrote a safe AFR table and rode the bike for a while checking the Autotune trim table and accepting the changes. It's made a mess of the fuel map and that's about it.

Positioning the sensor and the pipes you have will alter the readings.

The sample & adjustment rates don't relate to real world riding.

I was warned not to waste time with this unit by my tuner, I know understand why he said what he did. Safe the money and hit the dyno.
 

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I wrote a safe AFR table and rode the bike for a while checking the Autotune trim table and accepting the changes. It's made a mess of the fuel map and that's about it.

Positioning the sensor and the pipes you have will alter the readings.

The sample & adjustment rates don't relate to real world riding.

I was warned not to waste time with this unit by my tuner, I know understand why he said what he did. Safe the money and hit the dyno.
keep in mind that the autotune takes money out of your tuners pocket as well, so he naturally will not like the system.

i am not familiar with the autotune and just so i understand: you can set a base map as far as the AFR that you want to target and the autotune is supposed to mimick that as close as possible?

my next question is: can you go into the autotuned program and tweek the map here and there?
 

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keep in mind that the autotune takes money out of your tuners pocket as well, so he naturally will not like the system.

i am not familiar with the autotune and just so i understand: you can set a base map as far as the AFR that you want to target and the autotune is supposed to mimick that as close as possible?

my next question is: can you go into the autotuned program and tweek the map here and there?
The way I understand it is yes on both questions.
 

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so we should be able to see were your flat spots are and tweek them a little.

and another thing i thought of. is there ability for 3 or 4 different tunes to be in the PC? like a cold, hot, power, and econ tune?
 

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Only room for two. Yeah I wish there were a way to switch out more than that but honestly it's very easy to change them once you get home or where ever and connect a computer to it.
 

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The tuner has run them on race bikes with a poor result.

I ran it for a week with a poor result.

Dyno tuning fixed the short coming of the Autotune.

Getting over saying that.

If you run the AT, you don't need a base fuel map Theory would say that the AT will build a map. You have to fill in a target AFR map and ride.

You can't tidy a hole in the tune if you don't know where it is. The HUD will give you a better idea of what's happening (RPM, Throttle position, target AFR, trim, current AFR) but by the time you have felt it and looked, you've missed the hole.

You can tidy a map, but with the AT on the hole will return.

You can load multiple maps into the HUD, not just the two maps the PVC holds.

I'll post it again. Save your money and get a good dyno tune done.
 

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The tuner has run them on race bikes with a poor result.

I ran it for a week with a poor result.

Dyno tuning fixed the short coming of the Autotune.

Getting over saying that.

If you run the AT, you don't need a base fuel map Theory would say that the AT will build a map. You have to fill in a target AFR map and ride.

You can't tidy a hole in the tune if you don't know where it is. The HUD will give you a better idea of what's happening (RPM, Throttle position, target AFR, trim, current AFR) but by the time you have felt it and looked, you've missed the hole.

You can tidy a map, but with the AT on the hole will return.

You can load multiple maps into the HUD, not just the two maps the PVC holds.

I'll post it again. Save your money and get a good dyno tune done.
You say save my money and get a good dyno tune done. How is $250.00 each dyno tune saving money? One map, if good for you use, has more than paid for your Autotune. It may be that you are correct that this is not perfect for racing but there are a lot of other uses not associated with racing that it would not have to be as fine tuned.

That's cool to know the HUD holds more than the two maps.

One other question, you say there are holes in the map? Did you feel these holes or how were they found? The reason I am asking is if you run the Autotune while actually riding your air flow into the bike would be more than it just sitting on a Dyno and I am wondering if this could be the partial difference in the maps?
 
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