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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I changed out my oil today. Like I always do, work or at home, I inspect the parts I'm installing. A good Practice, and today it payed off. I opened up the box, lubed up the O'ring and hit it w/ my light. Case on the filter had several cracks in it stretching about halfway round. Saved myself a big problem, put on the second one I bought, and returned first.
NO obvious damage to box, but prob a shipping casualty.

I've seen some post mentioning shaving on the oil plug mags. I had the same but that's why the mags are there. 99% of shavings comes from the plug hole threading process when the hole isn't deburred properly. Happens all the time, unless you have a person doing the work by hand and takes the extra step of deburring before and after the tap is run through, I do, but alot don't.

The oil filter removal process was fun. I used my belt doublewrapped around it. I bought one of those crappy plastic filter cap wrenches. The nut on the one I got was 1" and even using an offset wench, didn't have enough room to get it. I'm probably going to mill out one myself out of aluminum. I get one done, good setup and all, may be able to make some if people wanted. Going to make the nut on the end maybe shallower more like Jam nut size, and 1/2 9/16 or equiv metric sizes so the offset or box or open end will get you some more turn.
 

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You could always buy a "good" one(cap wrench) from Suzuki, or aftermarket cycle parts distributer, or even Snap-on, Mac, etc. the key I think is being able to use an extension & ratchet instead of a wrench. :bigthumbsup:
 

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Not enough room to put a socket or ratchet on there. I used a box end on a Suzuki cap that I picked up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
steelfaber said:
You could always buy a "good" one(cap wrench) from Suzuki, or aftermarket cycle parts distributer, or even Snap-on, Mac, etc. the key I think is being able to use an extension & ratchet instead of a wrench. :bigthumbsup:
No room. Why buy something that I don't immediately need and can make myself ? I like making things on a mill.
 

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Can I just use the filter wrench that I use for my car on this 109? Taking off the fairing behind the front wheel looks like it would give more clearance for the oil filer replacement procedure.

I am doing the oil today myself so any advice would be helpful. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The round band clamp type will fit. I had 2, 1 for truck filter, 1 for a honda CRV filter. Neither one fit right so I just used my belt. Was going to pull the cover off the rad, but looked like more trouble than it was worth
 

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I use the "scissor-plier" style. Works great. Don't remember where I bought it five or six years ago. Either Wal-mart or Auto-zone. :D
 

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I have one of the oil filter wrenches that looks like a pair of pliers and is adjustable for small or large filters. The head is angled so you just have enough room between the ground and the filter to use it. the jaws go around the filter so you do not have to get on the front of it and has plenty of clearance around the filter/cowling. I got mine at Aut Zone and it works good, the stock filter as fit from the factory was slightly crushed by the wrench due to it being so tight but this ones the best IMO.
 

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there are a lot of ways of getting the filter off. the trick is to get the new one back on without crushing it. the easiest thing to do is get the oil filter wrench from suzuki and a 17 mm gear wrench. it will only work with the suzuki filter but thats what you should use anyway. i have seen cheaper aftermarket filters from the auto parts stores fall apart after a short period of time and the bypass valve may not open at the right pressure should it have to. not all filters are the same and not all oil is the same. theoretically, if you have engine problems and suzuki wants to inspect it themselves and finds a STP filter and quacker state car oil they won't pay for it.
 

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The whole radiator "fairing" does not have to be removed to get good access to the oil filter -- only the bottom section needs to be opened up.

You start at the bottom by removing three of those little "push-pin" thingees. You also have to remove the two hex bolts that hold the upper part of the "fairing" on. It's a bit difficult to explain because the design is strange -- the lower part of the fairing is attached to the frame by a "clip-on" mechanism. Once you do it once, it becomes clear -- which is one reason to do it that way (at least the first time you change your filter) -- so that if you ever had to do it under less than ideal conditions, or with poor lighting, you understand how it works. The goal is to remove the center chromed plastic piece. Once you do that, acess to the filter is pretty much unrestricted.
 
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