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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't know much about the wiring of bikes.. so I will throw this out to the crowd....

I put new LED turn signals on my bike (Big Bike Medium Eagle Eye LED Turn Signals). When I installed the back ones.. there was no problem other than the blink rate was a little faster. I don't mind that part. When I installed the front ones they had the same blink rate.... The only thing I noticed is that all the turn signals stay on when I am driving(front and back). :eek: They blink when I signal, but are on all the time...like driving lights. Also, my turn signal indicators (little green lights below the tach) are also on..... I figure the load equalizer will fix this problem...am I right?... also where should I mount it?......... any one know if this is a bad thing or an easy fix?
 

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In the picture of the Eagle Eye lights on the DLP website it only has two wires, so they aren't set up to be running lights. I wonder if you have both the "run" wires and the wires from the flasher hooked up. Sounds like the power from the "run" wires are sending voltage all throughout the signal system (that's why your indicator on the tach is on solid). If this is the case, you're gonna have to find the wires that provide the "running light" power and disconnect them before something fries, maybe :confused:

This link may help you diagnose what's going on:

:Click: http://www.m109riders.com/forum/index.php?topic=2792.msg34364#msg34364
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK.. to me.. it seems wired right :read: ... but the lights still come on....it only happens when I wired up the final light.. (right or left.. it did not matter).... does anyone have any suggestions?... will the load equalizer cure this?... is this going to cause a problem for my bike? :eek:
 

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load e.q. isn't going to help that. new lights aren't sufficiantly changing the load without being turned on at the switch. check your wires again. you might have skinned a wire by accident by pulling on it when installing the new lights. if they grounding against the bike , the bike itself will act like a switch and keep them on.
 

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I believe that LED's must have  resistances added (probably the same value as the 'replaced' bulb filament ?)  in series with each LED, to work properly where the circuit was designed for filament bulbs eg 109. There are others on the site that will be able to give you hands on experience and there is at least 2 electrical engineers amongst the members..good luck!   I don't know what the wattage rating on the resistor would need to be..probably 1/2 the old bulb rating would do?
 

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The reason the  circuit worked (albeit faster) with just the back bulbs replaced with LED's, is that there was still one front filament (resistance) in the circuit for each side. As the circuit resistance >0 the flashing rate >infinity. As for why the lights flash when told to and stay on when they are not meant to..you would really need a circuit to see what is happening there. Current will go lots of places if it finds 'doors shut' but 'windows open' and visa versa, in a circuit.
 

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zigalet said:
OK.. to me.. it seems wired right :read: ... but the lights still come on....it only happens when I wired up the final light.. (right or left.. it did not matter).... does anyone have any suggestions?... will the load equalizer cure this?... is this going to cause a problem for my bike? :eek:
Then you are completing a (LOOP circut) ie; connecting back into the hot circut! Re trace your wiring,and make sure your running paraell,not in series.
 
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