Hello everyone, i bought a 2007 109 a month ago with 2077 miles on it. All stock. the first few times i rode it was in colder weather. My first concern is how hard it shifts. If it doesn't grind going from 1st to 2nd it clunks so hard the whole bike jumps. Is this normal? I own a victory Vegas also and people say they shift hard but my Vegas is extremely smooth compared to the 109.I reasd several posts on here about a shift kit of some sort. Will this solve the shifting problem? My next problem is gas fumes. I could smell them in cold weather but yeaterday was 80 degrees and the fumes were so bad I had to stop and get off the bike for awhile. No signs of leaks. 2 different dealers ran my vin and said my bike was not included in the fuel rail recall. One dealer suggested trying a new gas cap at $133. I took my gas cap apart and can't see anything wrong with it. I know the tank vents through the cap but these fumes are so bad I can't stand to ride the bike. It seems to be worse when I come to a stop or just take off. It'sike the fuel is sitting above that big hot engine and the gas gets hot and all the fumes get blown right in my face. If I pull the bike in the garage warm it fills the whole garage with fumes. I'm going to lift the tank tomorrow to check for leaks with the bike running but I'm pretty sure there are no leaks. I've read all the posts on here about leaks and gas smells and I see I'm not the only one with problems. Has anyone ever tried a different cap? Does the tank vent anywhere else besides the cap? Any other suggestions?
new owner with a couple problems
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4,164 Posts
She shifts hard. Try a preload. This is done by applying some pressure on the shifter before you pull in the clutch to shirt, and then shift it like you mean it. Do not play games with her; she will kick your ass.
All 06, 07, 08's where involved in the recall. The only way your bike was not, is if it was all ready done. They should be able to tell you when it was done. If it was not done, tell them you want it done.
All 06, 07, 08's where involved in the recall. The only way your bike was not, is if it was all ready done. They should be able to tell you when it was done. If it was not done, tell them you want it done.
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2,305 Posts
The 9 has no neutral lock out, so the shift from first to second is a long hard pull to pass neutral.
If you are grinding, you may be a little early off the clutch and not have fully engaged 2nd yet.
This is not uncommon in bikes without a neutral lock out, but is often an issue if you are coming off a bike that has the feature.
I am not saying it could not be smoother or that none of the reported issues are legit, but in my humble opinion, too many people are too ready to blame the bike, when they just need to learn that shift.
Preload and make sure you are all the way up before you let the clutch go. I have had no issues since I got into this habit.
As for your fuel smell, make sure your rail was replaced. If so, it does not sound like a venting problem. If you did not over-fill the tank and end up with fuel on the motor, you may have a drip under the tank.
If you are grinding, you may be a little early off the clutch and not have fully engaged 2nd yet.
This is not uncommon in bikes without a neutral lock out, but is often an issue if you are coming off a bike that has the feature.
I am not saying it could not be smoother or that none of the reported issues are legit, but in my humble opinion, too many people are too ready to blame the bike, when they just need to learn that shift.
Preload and make sure you are all the way up before you let the clutch go. I have had no issues since I got into this habit.
As for your fuel smell, make sure your rail was replaced. If so, it does not sound like a venting problem. If you did not over-fill the tank and end up with fuel on the motor, you may have a drip under the tank.
I only smell fuel around mine when it's sitting in my closed up storage shed. Even then it's no worse than my wife's S50 or my old Sportster. It wouldn't hurt to check for a fuel rail leak but you can't see the entire fuel rail by just lifting up the tank. It's under the air box that you'll see when you lift the tank. You can actually see it better by removing the air filters from each side and looking over them.
On the shifting, the clutch adjustment makes a big difference, plus you need to shift it positively. And on most they work better if you shift them early, as in just get it rolling then go into second, or rev it out quite a bit. It does need to be shifted firmly, which means tennis shoes don't work well. I actually wear steel toed boots and I also have the shift kit in it. The shift kit shortens the throws and improves the shifting some, but the positive shift does more.
Easy clutch adjustment procedure that works well:
Pull back the rubber cover over the shifter. Turn the adjuster out until there is no slack between the lever and perch. Pull the lever and place two quarters between the lever and the perch. Turn the adjuster in until the quarters just fall out or are very easily pulled out.
If the clutch doesn't disengage enough after this, turn the adjust in 1/2 turn at a time until it does.
Good luck with it, and :welcome: to the board. And :congrats: on getting a good bike.
On the shifting, the clutch adjustment makes a big difference, plus you need to shift it positively. And on most they work better if you shift them early, as in just get it rolling then go into second, or rev it out quite a bit. It does need to be shifted firmly, which means tennis shoes don't work well. I actually wear steel toed boots and I also have the shift kit in it. The shift kit shortens the throws and improves the shifting some, but the positive shift does more.
Easy clutch adjustment procedure that works well:
Pull back the rubber cover over the shifter. Turn the adjuster out until there is no slack between the lever and perch. Pull the lever and place two quarters between the lever and the perch. Turn the adjuster in until the quarters just fall out or are very easily pulled out.
If the clutch doesn't disengage enough after this, turn the adjust in 1/2 turn at a time until it does.
Good luck with it, and :welcome: to the board. And :congrats: on getting a good bike.
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309 Posts
with some training you will get used to the shifting.
I ride a 2006 and I think that the "old models" are even harder to shift than the newer ones. but - as said before - you ride a big engine ...
Gas smell
A friend of mine hat a leak underneath the airbox. there is one connection from the left to the right side with a rubber tube. this was loosen and as soon the engine pumped gas it tripped.
I would suggest to remove the left airfilter and let the bike run on the kickstand. check underneath the airbox.
(dont smoke at this step :joke
It would be nice to hear when you solved the problem
I ride a 2006 and I think that the "old models" are even harder to shift than the newer ones. but - as said before - you ride a big engine ...
Gas smell
A friend of mine hat a leak underneath the airbox. there is one connection from the left to the right side with a rubber tube. this was loosen and as soon the engine pumped gas it tripped.
I would suggest to remove the left airfilter and let the bike run on the kickstand. check underneath the airbox.
(dont smoke at this step :joke
It would be nice to hear when you solved the problem
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3,712 Posts
Regarding the shifting: Yes the 9 has has a hard shift from 1 to 2, but I have found a few ways around the problem that you can consider yourself... Make sure to add a little pressure upwards on the shifter but not enough to kick it into the next gear. Pull in the clutch, the gear shifts smoothly and easily. Also shifting under 3000 RPM from 1 -2 greaty improves the chances of not grinding.:bigthumbsup:
Unfortunatly I have no idea what would be causing the fumes.. Good like with that :-[
Unfortunatly I have no idea what would be causing the fumes.. Good like with that :-[
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444 Posts
Mine shifted terrible also. Around 1500 miles I decided to install the Factory Pro shift kit. She now shifts nice and smooth. Its a little pricey, but well worth it. Here is a link http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=8305&str=290
Thanks for all the replies. It's good to know the hard shift is the nature of the beast so to speak. I don't know of anyone locally that owns one that I could ask and when i try talking to the local dealers they just try to sell me something. I'll try preloading the shifter for the 1 to 2 shift. I have noticed when I'm really on the throttle and running it hard it shifts smoother. It's around town in stop and go traffic when I'm having trouble. As far as the gas smell I can see the heat shield is still under the tank. I'm going out to the garage now to lift the tank and take the air cleaners off and see what i can find. If I can't see anything I guess I'll pull the tank completely off and check all the connections. thanks again. I'll let you know what i find.
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2,606 Posts
Replaced the shift star on mine and shifts are shorter and less clunky. Clunky transmissions are a Suzuki trademark.
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the two replies quoted above describe the procedure called "pre-loading the shifter". the shifting is clunky on the 109, but believe it or not, it will get better. these bikes are big with tons of torque and require that the rider learn how to shift them properly. it was an experience that i also had to go thru when i switched over from sportbikes. my first time out on the bike (2006 model) i felt as if there was something terribly wrong and i also had concerns about it. but after reading on this forum i began to understand that it was normal and just the way the bike was built and that it required a certain finesse on my part. the shift star kit has been said to make a difference but other members say that they haven't felt a difference, so that will be up to you. when you first start applying the "pre-load the shifter' method it might feel strange to you, but once you put a few hundred miles on the bike while using that technique it should come as second nature and feel much smoother.
as for the fuel smell, i don't know what can be causing that. the two bikes i have owned have not smelled of fuel aside from when i fill them up at the pump and take off the gas cap. even when stored in my garage all winter, i have never once smelled fuel from them. i would really check the tank again and see if there aren't any leaks or cracks somewhere and that everything sits properly and fits appropriately. aside from the unpleasant smell, i am sure that you also want to be sure you're not putting yourself at risk when riding that thing.
i hope that explanation helps you out.
Well I took the air cleaners off and lifted the back of the tank. I didn't take the tank off because I wasn't sure how to disconnect the fuel line. The service manual just says disconnect the fuel line. I could see some type of blue connector but didn't know whether to pull line straight off or if it required a special tool. Anyway I ran the bike for about 30 minutes and checked with a light under the tank, no signs of leaks. i stuck my nose under the tank and could smell nothing. The only smell of gas is coming from around the cap. It was cooler here today and the fumes did not seem as bad. When i had my cap apart the other night i cleaned it and blew it out with an air hose before i reassembled it. I read a post on here where someone had an o ring swell and come out of their cap and it allowed gas to run on their tank. I did not have an oring in my cap, just the flat gasket where it seals to the tank and another gasket where the 6 or 8 small screws hold the top on. Maybe my oring is missing? I put my bike back together and rode about 50 miles. I only smelled gas a few times when i would have to stop for traffic, but like i said it was cooler today, only upper sixties. I'll have to wait for a hot day and see what happens. On the up side I tried preloading before i shifted and it works wonders. It shifts like a different bike. Thanks again for all the help.
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Perfectly said.Shift from 1 to 2 like you mean it and you will be fine.
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maybe you do have a defective cap? :dontknow: i only say that since you mentioned in your original post that you just bought the bike about a month ago. the former owner could have dropped the gas cap or done something with the tank that they didn't mention in the sale. not trying to say that they would do that, but when you buy used anything is possible. you just never know.
before buying one from the dealer, i would suggest you try posting and seeing if there are any members on here that are selling one or live near you and are willing to let you borrow their gas cap for a day. you can ride it on a hot day and see if there is any difference.
maybe even have them put your cap on their bike. if your bike doesn't smell like gas with theirs on and theirs smells like gas with yours on, then you have found your problem. :bigthumbsup:
just my .02 worth. hope you figure it out.
before buying one from the dealer, i would suggest you try posting and seeing if there are any members on here that are selling one or live near you and are willing to let you borrow their gas cap for a day. you can ride it on a hot day and see if there is any difference.
maybe even have them put your cap on their bike. if your bike doesn't smell like gas with theirs on and theirs smells like gas with yours on, then you have found your problem. :bigthumbsup:
just my .02 worth. hope you figure it out.
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249 Posts
Not too many places get much hotter than 29 Palms, CA and I have never smelled fuel whether it be mid July and 120 or Dec and 10. I installed the factory pro but honestly think once I learned how to shift the bike AND that she is just a big bitch with lots of torque that I understood she is not going to shift like my GSXR 1000. The kit shortens the throw as lots of guys told you but I am not sold that it is the solution despite the fact that I have one. Good luck with the fuel issue, I would be interested to see what you find is the cause
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4,699 Posts
:welcome: I get the gas smell every once in a while too, but mine runs very rich.. Maybe yours does too. I have an 07 and it was under the fuel rail recall. If yours isn't then you can esentially do the same thing by switching the crimp clamp on the fuel rail with a screw down clamp. There used to be a thread on here about that. If I remember right it was Lucky06 who did this. Also if you have stock air filters I would recommend replacing with K&N's.
You disconnect the fuel line by squeezing the blue clamps then pulling the black adapter straight off. It's kind of a B$tch to do. Sometimes I do one side of the clip then the other using a screw driver.:bigthumbsup:
You disconnect the fuel line by squeezing the blue clamps then pulling the black adapter straight off. It's kind of a B$tch to do. Sometimes I do one side of the clip then the other using a screw driver.:bigthumbsup:
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