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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Many know me here from being on the forum from the beginning. I have done quite a few write ups on assorted topics on the 109 over the years. I spend a lot of time on Facebook in the various 109 groups helping people. I have seen a TON of misinformation, between comments and YouTube videos. Many of the YouTube videos are decent, but lack all the information that will get you through the fix. You are getting someone who did some research and wants to build a channel so they film it. 90% of the time they are missing key information to help you, or their information is wrong. For that reason, I have started a YouTube channel dedicated to fixing the 109 from a trusted source.

We are just finishing up a second gear fix and I am starting on the wife’s bike in the next few days. She is burning oil and we think it is a valve seal. Since the bike has 82k miles on it, we decided to tear it down and do a full motor refresh as well. Crank and rod bearings, back cut transmission as well as rings and go through the valves. We won’t be getting into full detail in the videos of how to do stuff as that would take forever. I have 10 other second gear jobs waiting so we want to turn this around I a quick fashion so we will be doing videos every day or two through the progress. We have a ton to do as we are also pulling the whole bike down to frame and clean, check things and fix anything that needs to be done. You can check it out here.

Front motor mounts
Fuel filter replacement
Main air box removal and installation
How to check m109 FI light code
Arnott air ride manifold cleaning (Maintenance)
Secondary Installation
How to remove and install all body panels
How to install integrated taillight (Chinese version with wrong wires)
How to remove and replace a site glass for the master cylinder
Oil Change
There are others coming as well.

We have already done a full clutch video as well as replacing your oil pan or dropping it to check the sump screens if your clutch is bad..

If you see something that you want us to do, post up and we can see if it is in the cards.

 

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2008 M109R, 2016 FJR1300, 1999 VMax, 2009 Suzuki AN400 Burgman
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6,152 Posts
How about the hydraulic clutch kit installation?
Thanks!
 
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326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How about the hydraulic clutch kit installation?
Thanks!
Can't. Donnie made the video and only wants it given out to those that buy his kit.
Is it worth making your link a "sticky"?
LOL, I cannot answer that. But, there will be good info, just not sure how many videos we will have up in a timely fashion. Going to keep plugging away at them.
 

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Oil level check procedure....LOL...had to put that in there...

Below would be a good video as you get around to doing them.

Fork Seals
Rear Drive Seal
Wheel bearings and seals
Brake Fluid Change
Coolant Change

I'm sure I could come up with more, trying to put some out there that you would be doing while tearing the motor down.
 

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326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
AWESOME! Subscribed, bell'd.
also.. that electrical tape.. I cringed so hard.
You and me both. LOL I was like "WTF, why won't this pump come out" and then I realized it had a tangled mess under it.


Oil level check procedure....LOL...had to put that in there...

Below would be a good video as you get around to doing them.

Fork Seals
Rear Drive Seal
Wheel bearings and seals
Brake Fluid Change
Coolant Change

I'm sure I could come up with more, trying to put some out there that you would be doing while tearing the motor down.
LOL, there is a great fork seal video that is out there that I am going to be linking too. I helped him virtually as he did it so I feel comfortable giving it out as I know it is good. I added your others to the list as that is good info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alright, I got one for you. Dont hate me because you asked for it though!! Valve clearances. Good luck adventurer!
I know we spoke on Youtube. I will be doing a valve clearance video for you if I can. The only issue is on this one, if they are in spec, it is only a feeler gauge needed and I won't be able to really show you what to do other than that. To be honest, since we have a 4 valve, this video below will do the exact same thing for you in terms of checking and changing. The only difference is you will need to know how to time the motor. If you are out of spec, you need to remove the cam tensioners and pull the cams out to adjust with the new shims. Then you have to put the cams back in and time the motor.

 

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Honestly that should be good. i only got 21k miles on mine, bought it with 5k miles on it. Thing is, we dont have a Suzuki dealership around here. We have a Harley shop about... oh... 40 miles away that wont touch it? one other shop that is known for keeping your bike for 3 years. But that is about it., So i will have to do the job myself. I am not a mechanic. I am a machinist though. My mechanic experience on bikes is limited to simple stuff. Brakes, tires, wheel bearings, blah blah. The only time i have gone deeper than that was on a Suzuki Savage. and lets be honest, a monkey with a hammer can take that thing apart. :p A 109 is a little more hard nosed.

But! i will watch this in a bit here and see what i can gather from it. Thank you for the link!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Honestly that should be good. i only got 21k miles on mine, bought it with 5k miles on it. Thing is, we dont have a Suzuki dealership around here. We have a Harley shop about... oh... 40 miles away that wont touch it? one other shop that is known for keeping your bike for 3 years. But that is about it., So i will have to do the job myself. I am not a mechanic. I am a machinist though. My mechanic experience on bikes is limited to simple stuff. Brakes, tires, wheel bearings, blah blah. The only time i have gone deeper than that was on a Suzuki Savage. and lets be honest, a monkey with a hammer can take that thing apart. :p A 109 is a little more hard nosed.

But! i will watch this in a bit here and see what i can gather from it. Thank you for the link!!
LOL, you're welcome. Hit me up on Facebook (Harris Horwitz) and I can help you virtually when you decide to do it. It isn't hard to check. A little tight getting that front valve cover off in the frame but I have done them that way. I prefer to do them on the table when putting a motor together though. LOL
 

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Will do man! its gonna be a littlewhile. i am over due as all hell for them but, not able to do it right at the moment anyhow. Now, i figure when i get ready i gotta take the tank and airboxes off, do i got to take the rad loose? its a C, not a M
 

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Many know me here from being on the forum from the beginning. I have done quite a few write ups on assorted topics on the 109 over the years. I spend a lot of time on Facebook in the various 109 groups helping people. I have seen a TON of misinformation, between comments and YouTube videos. Many of the YouTube videos are decent, but lack all the information that will get you through the fix. You are getting someone who did some research and wants to build a channel so they film it. 90% of the time they are missing key information to help you, or their information is wrong. For that reason, I have started a YouTube channel dedicated to fixing the 109 from a trusted source.

We are just finishing up a second gear fix and I am starting on the wife’s bike in the next few days. She is burning oil and we think it is a valve seal. Since the bike has 82k miles on it, we decided to tear it down and do a full motor refresh as well. Crank and rod bearings, back cut transmission as well as rings and go through the valves. We won’t be getting into full detail in the videos of how to do stuff as that would take forever. I have 10 other second gear jobs waiting so we want to turn this around I a quick fashion so we will be doing videos every day or two through the progress. We have a ton to do as we are also pulling the whole bike down to frame and clean, check things and fix anything that needs to be done. You can check it out here.

Front motor mounts
Fuel filter replacement
Main air box removal and installation
How to check m109 FI light code
Arnott air ride manifold cleaning (Maintenance)
Secondary Installation
How to remove and install all body panels
How to install integrated taillight (Chinese version with wrong wires)
How to remove and replace a site glass for the master cylinder
Oil Change
There are others coming as well.

We have already done a full clutch video as well as replacing your oil pan or dropping it to check the sump screens if your clutch is bad..

If you see something that you want us to do, post up and we can see if it is in the cards.

I'd like to see a video on brake line replacement. I just subscribed to your channel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Will do man! its gonna be a littlewhile. i am over due as all hell for them but, not able to do it right at the moment anyhow. Now, i figure when i get ready i gotta take the tank and airboxes off, do i got to take the rad loose? its a C, not a M
You done need to take the radiator off. Under the tank there is a air box plenum that comes off. Under that is your valve covers. If you need to change the rear shims you will need to remove the exhaust to get to the rear cam tensioner possibly. FYI, since this is a shim design, they never get looser, only tighter and it is rare they need adjustment. The wife's bike has never had them checked. I will let you know if they are in spec when I check. My 109 has 72k miles with its new owner. I checked them at 28k and one was loose, meaning it was out of spec from the factory. But it was barely.
 

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They never get looser? only tighter? Huh. Well the whole reason that i even wanted to do it was because I got to do the spark pugs anyhow, adn dont you have to remove all the same crap to do the plugs? Sans exhaust.

You done need to take the radiator off. Under the tank there is a air box plenum that comes off. Under that is your valve covers. If you need to change the rear shims you will need to remove the exhaust to get to the rear cam tensioner possibly. FYI, since this is a shim design, they never get looser, only tighter and it is rare they need adjustment. The wife's bike has never had them checked. I will let you know if they are in spec when I check. My 109 has 72k miles with its new owner. I checked them at 28k and one was loose, meaning it was out of spec from the factory. But it was barely.
 

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They never get looser? only tighter? Huh. Well the whole reason that i even wanted to do it was because I got to do the spark pugs anyhow, adn dont you have to remove all the same crap to do the plugs? Sans exhaust.
The shims really don't wear, but what happens is the valves sink further into the head, and that decreases the clearances.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
They never get looser? only tighter? Huh. Well the whole reason that i even wanted to do it was because I got to do the spark pugs anyhow, adn dont you have to remove all the same crap to do the plugs? Sans exhaust.
No not at all. There are videos out there but plugs you leave the exhaust oh.
 
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