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I saw this posted over on the VMax site. Here is the info that was posted, FWIW.

It appears that the supplier of the lift has changed. The original lift is part number 68892. The new lift is part number 69904. The new lift is proving to be structurally unsafe. It has a main beam that is "L" shaped. The foot of the L is on the bottom. The new stop bar is a hollow tube. When the lift is lowered onto the stop bar and the weight of the load is placed against the main beam the tube bends and the main frame deforms. Down goes the load. It would do no good to replace the stop bar with one of solid steel. The main beam would still bend, even worse.

The original lift, 68892, has a "C" channel main beam and a solid steel stop bar. Much stronger. Mine is the older unit and has held Venture Royals, Royale Star Ventures, full dress Harley's, and Goldwings. It is 2 years old now with no problems.

http://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=48993
 

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I have the older as well and never an issue. Matter of fact the bike is on it now all the way up. It sat on that lift most of last winter so I coud tinker when I wanted. Thanks for the heads up, sure someone here has one of those new ones.
 

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I was just thinking about buying one. I guess I'll hold off for now...
 

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I was just thinking about buying one. I guess I'll hold off for now...
Thanks for posting pete. I almost pulled the trigger last weekend because it was on sale for $299. Glad I changed my mind and bought a husky rollout toolbox instead. I'll have to go around the corner and take a good look at the one in their store to see what kind of setup it has.
 

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I think I read the same thing in the reviews on their website. I was doing a search for lifts and two showed up, both the same price but different item numbers. I noticed the reviews had one rated much better than the other, and the item that was mentioned was the stop bar was designed differently.
 

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Looks like an easy fix. Something to look for if you are buying one. Wouldn't stop me from purchasing it. Even after modding it the cost would still be considerably less than almost all of the competitors'
 

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I have the older one, made by Pittsburgh Motorcycle. Here is the main difference. Besides the safety bar looking to be thinner and probably a weaker steel, the lower rails are knife-edged, not "C"d, no reinforcement, no support. Those lower rails will bow outward over time, even with a stronger safety bar. That new lift is NOT designed to take the weight. I hope Pittsburgh didn't make that, bad on them if they did. lifp.jpg IMG_0518.jpg
 

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What a chity fabrication. Who ever did that i would of fired their butt. And they put it on the market with out even stress testing it. Guess someone dont know stress points.
 

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That's to bad and I was thinking about getting one.
 

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I'm going to bet that after they get a few back where they have all failed in the same place they will change them back. At least now I know what the problem is and I could reinforce it before it was ever allowed to fail.

A great heads up!

Has HF been contacted about this? Did they reply?
 

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I'm going to bet that after they get a few back where they have all failed in the same place they will change them back. At least now I know what the problem is and I could reinforce it before it was ever allowed to fail.

A great heads up!

Has HF been contacted about this? Did they reply?
Going by the J-ville store today and speak with the store manager.
 

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easy fix. Close the gap where the bar goes throw so it pinches the bar like sissor's.

Talk them into selling it at half price and fix it yourself.
 

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As long as you get the OLD part #68892, then your getting the good one. if its part #69904...RUN!!!!!!
I searched for the old part # online, but couldn't find a place that sells it. Maybe have to call them directly :dontknow:
 

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easy fix. Close the gap where the bar goes throw so it pinches the bar like sissor's.

Talk them into selling it at half price and fix it yourself.
With a stiffer/solid bar the forces will remain downwards and not outwards due to the bent bar so just replace the bar.

If you wanted to stop dents appearing in the upright steel chassis rail, maybe lay a U shaped piece if steel where the bar hits.
 

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Just went by our local HF to have a look at the new design. It looked like it would be ok, it has the right bracing and cross members but the safety bar is fubar-ed, that would have to be replaced with a good solid bar. All in all I think it will make a good lift for the price but not as good as the old one which I am lucky enough to have bought last year.
 

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With a stiffer/solid bar the forces will remain downwards and not outwards due to the bent bar so just replace the bar.

If you wanted to stop dents appearing in the upright steel chassis rail, maybe lay a U shaped piece if steel where the bar hits.
The simple way.Yes you can. I rather close the gap between the two frames. Then it would put the weight on the two frames straght down instead of putting all the weight on the bar.

I would put a 1" × 2" channel with holes on the frame that moves up and down.

Now you took all the weight off the bar. Now your pinching the bar.
 

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it also appears to be easily distinguished by the stop bar on mine has a ring welded on the end of it and identifying as the older version and the newer one has a hole drilled and a ring is put through the hole signifying the newer problematic one ?
 
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