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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I installed a Yuasa YTX20CH-BS with 270cca on Nov 2017 , that is , 3 and half years ago . The battery now , after working all that time flawlessly , I have noticed that lately the voltmeter is charging at 14.5 and 14.7 volts and in general the battery , while still starts the bike ok , I am beginning to be concerned about the electric system working to a stressed level of 14.7 volts . I always keep the battery on the tender .
I have searched a few different brands but they are all slightly bigger ... I measured the compartment on my 109r and this battery seats tight on it , so there is no room for a bigger battery .
I am inclined to order the same exact battery again for 2 reasons :
1) It will eliminate the risk of not fitting correctly for starters , so it will be a sure buy knowing that it fit perfectly .
2) This battery also comes dry along with the special acid bottle , so no chance of being an older battery on the shelve with half life on it , since it is dry , so that means brand new , full power 100% life .
Are there any other choices of battery that I should look out for that will fit the 109r ? The Lithium types I just don`t know much but I heard are kind of tricky on weather types.
I would love some opinions , please.
 

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Probably the best battery I had in mine was the Odyssey PC535, which GMan used to modify to fit the 109. I don't know if he still does them or not, you can google GMan Industries and see if he still does. It was a tank of a battery and lasted about 5 years, then for some reason I went back to the Yuasa battery you listed above. Mine came with an FB Super something. I actually still use the Odyssey in my riding mower and it's now probably 10 years old. The PC535 normally won't fit the holder, but GMan modified them with permission from Odyssey by shaving off the ribs on the side so they fit. Some other members on here did the same to theirs.

I also had a Moto Batt MBTX-16U that used to be popular on here. It was a good battery, and that might actually have been the one I had in it after the PC535 before going to the Yuasa,. I like the Yuasa batteries.
 

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I have the Gman modified battery. I left my accessory circuit on for two weeks and drained it dead. I put a charger on it and that was a year ago. Still working like a champ. I have some Harley riding friends who run Lithium batteries. they weigh next to nothing. You can't really jump start them if they are dead. The way they explained it to me is the lithium batteries run at a different voltage internally and there is a circuit built in to manage the battery. Also they do not drop voltage as they take on a load until they get about 80% discharged, then the volts drop like crazy, but still better than a lead acid battery. They can dump current and take a charge faster than a conventional battery. I installed a 1000 Watt stereo and 300+ RGB LED's on my friends Ultra Classic. the stock battery wasn't having it. We installed a Braille Lithium that has twice the capacity of a regular battery, (at 4 times the cost) but it is doing just fine. I might try a lithium next time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, it seems that for the price and reliability of the Yuasa , it is worth getting it again .
The 270 CCA moves my engine effortlessly and keeps the volts at 14.0 to 14.2 so that is great .
Fair price and I know it works , so , if it has to be replaced every 3.5 years , it is a fair product .
If I don`t find anything else close to it, I will order it again .
 

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I installed a Yuasa YTX20CH-BS with 270cca on Nov 2017 , that is , 3 and half years ago . The battery now , after working all that time flawlessly , I have noticed that lately the voltmeter is charging at 14.5 and 14.7 volts and in general the battery , while still starts the bike ok , I am beginning to be concerned about the electric system working to a stressed level of 14.7 volts . I always keep the battery on the tender .
I have searched a few different brands but they are all slightly bigger ... I measured the compartment on my 109r and this battery seats tight on it , so there is no room for a bigger battery .
I am inclined to order the same exact battery again for 2 reasons :
1) It will eliminate the risk of not fitting correctly for starters , so it will be a sure buy knowing that it fit perfectly .
2) This battery also comes dry along with the special acid bottle , so no chance of being an older battery on the shelve with half life on it , since it is dry , so that means brand new , full power 100% life .
Are there any other choices of battery that I should look out for that will fit the 109r ? The Lithium types I just don`t know much but I heard are kind of tricky on weather types.
I would love some opinions , please.
Josey,
before I would buy new battery I would clean all the el. connections
at the battery, and the onboard voltmeter connections as well you installed.
Your regulator connections need attention too. 14,5 V- 14,7 V does not look
too critical to me. JMHO...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will take a look at the regulator connections , since it is down into the bike close to the road and cut be needing some cleaning . The rest of the connections , battery, voltmeter , etc , are perfect , no problem there ... Thanks for the suggestion .
I keep my bike in top shape , always with the Tender connected thru a pig tail every time the bike is parked .
 

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I will take a look at the regulator connections , since it is down into the bike close to the road and cut be needing some cleaning . The rest of the connections , battery, voltmeter , etc , are perfect , no problem there ... Thanks for the suggestion .
I keep my bike in top shape , always with the Tender connected thru a pig tail every time the bike is parked .
(y),
I should also mention that not only corrosion, but also a
loose / not tight enough connection could cause not accurate
reading on your voltmeter.
BTW,
is your voltmeter hooked up such a way you can see
voltage drop while the starter is cranking?
 

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2008 M109R, 2016 FJR1300, 1999 VMax
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Ohm's law requires increased resistance or higher amperage draw to result in increased voltage. Have you added any electrical accessories lately? Have you checked the water level in your battery?

 

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Yes. There is a "sticker" on the top of the battery. Removing it exposes the caps.
I don't think the Yuasa is a sealed battery, however. They are usually shipped dry, and you must add the acid before use.

EDIT: How to Maintain a Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) Battery System
Well
I did it this way when I bought my new battery after 11 yrs of service, bought Yuasa OEM, and filled it this way, in here they called it "Sealed Battery".. on the top of it it says "Do not Open".. :

AGM absorbed glass mat batteries are "sealed", dark black, and difficult to check levels of acid as far as I know, so thats why I was surprised at your suggestion... Not to argue, just learning myself as I go...
 

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Of course they don't want you to open it. That reduces their liability, and it may require more frequent battery changes. More $ in their pockets.
Most aftermarket parts say "not for on-road use", but that does not stop people from using them on the road!
 

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Of course they don't want you to open it. That reduces their liability, and it may require more frequent battery changes. More $ in their pockets.
Most aftermarket parts say "not for on-road use", but that does not stop people from using them on the road!
Pete,
all that is fully understandable, I just do not follow
how one checks level of acid in sealed AGM battery...
Have you done that?
 

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You did not say AGM, and the Yuasa is not an AGM battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
(y),
I should also mention that not only corrosion, but also a
loose / not tight enough connection could cause not accurate
reading on your voltmeter.
BTW,
is your voltmeter hooked up such a way you can see
voltage drop while the starter is cranking?
1) Yes, I can check the voltage drop. It goes down to 10 , 10.1 when I hit the start button , which is kind of border line , in my humble opinion ...
2) The battery , once you fill it up from new and cap it , it will be difficult to pry it open it again without damaging it for sure . I guess it is so not to check the acid level .
3) And , I also went to Yuasa.com and checked that the YTX20CH-BS with 270 CCA ( which is the exact same battery that I have) it is indeed an AGM , maintenance free battery . That is what the official Yuasa site says .
I paid $84.00 3 and a half years ago for it , and now it is $138.00 , lol...
 

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I installed a Yuasa YTX20CH-BS with 270cca on Nov 2017 , that is , 3 and half years ago . The battery now , after working all that time flawlessly , I have noticed that lately the voltmeter is charging at 14.5 and 14.7 volts and in general the battery , while still starts the bike ok , I am beginning to be concerned about the electric system working to a stressed level of 14.7 volts . I always keep the battery on the tender .
I have searched a few different brands but they are all slightly bigger ... I measured the compartment on my 109r and this battery seats tight on it , so there is no room for a bigger battery .
I am inclined to order the same exact battery again for 2 reasons :
1) It will eliminate the risk of not fitting correctly for starters , so it will be a sure buy knowing that it fit perfectly .
2) This battery also comes dry along with the special acid bottle , so no chance of being an older battery on the shelve with half life on it , since it is dry , so that means brand new , full power 100% life .
Are there any other choices of battery that I should look out for that will fit the 109r ? The Lithium types I jus
So while charging, on the tender presumably, you get 14.7 volts DC.

And you see this as problematic i understand.

What DC voltage would you see as ideal while charging?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So while charging, on the tender presumably, you get 14.7 volts DC.

And you see this as problematic i understand.

What DC voltage would you see as ideal while charging?
14.0 to 14.2 would be ideal for me .
I disconnect the tender, start the bike and goes down to 10 volts when the start is working .
While riding normally , the volts are showing charging 14.5 to 14.7 volts .
To me , since it always have shown 14.0 to 14.2 volts regularly , that is kind of stressing the system . Everything I have read on batteries say that once the battery goes down to 9.5 volts when starting , the battery should be replaced ... Well, mine goes down to 10 volts , so I am getting close to the edge of that .
Hey , 3.5 years is good enough , am not complaining on the duration of the battery that has given me zero problems in all this time . I just think it would be wise to replace it to avoid getting stuck on the very hot road here in Florida , and the fact that the regulator is working at a higher pace is also concerning .
 
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