[mrreynosa]

Hi guys I just wonder if any of you can help me to find or know where I can find a hitch for the nine and if will fit with my 280mm tire, Thanks a bunch

 

[2009m109r]

a buddy of mine bought his trailer @ a local shop, they make all types of hitches for all kinds of bike $260.00 the hitch they made for his m109r is almost invisible and it don't matter how wide the tire is (see pics below)

here's the website http://armoricdesign.com

 

[QUICKBIKEMIKE]

109 Hitch

I think Lamonster has one on his 9 .

 

[mrreynosa]

I think Lamonster has one on his 9 .

The one he have is made by bushtec and is $409.00 the only problem you can only use their $5000.00 trailers

 

[rynosback]

Hopefully David should be coming out with a trailer and hitch set up in the next 2-4 months.

 

[KC Cruiser]

Might try DenRay - http://www.produits-denray.com/

Not my bike but I have the hitch - $409 two months ago

 

[rynosback]

Sorry, here is a link to that thread. CLICK HERE

 

[KC Cruiser]

More on Denray Hitch

I've got a Uni-Go trailer on order with Schoolhouse, should arrive in two weeks. I had two different engineers check out the Denray hitch for me - mainly for sway issues. Both came back with positive reports on this hitch for the Uni-Go trailer using the Uni-Go hitch adapter. The universal joint connection and single wheel takes the low sway out of the equation as the Uni-Go will lean with you and not torque the hitch. Could be an issue with two wheeled trailers - steel fatigue could occur where the mounting tube stops on the hitch side and could develop stress cracks over time.

When I received the hitch I wasn't happy with the mounting hardware, looked like a quick trip to the local hardware store - galvanized nuts/bolts - they don't tell you this or give you an option, it's a supprise . I changed them out for chrome, another $70 or so. I also didn't like the thru-bolt location/angle on the mounting tube for the hitch bar. You can't put the bolts in from the top side :dontknow: the fender/chrome trim is in the way. You have to install the bolts through the bottom with the heads down, nuts up. My thought is you always want the nut on the bottom just in case it works itself loose and falls off. The bolt may ride until you notice it, no chance with the bolt upside down. There is also a set bolt on the end of the mounting tube for added safety.

Other than the galvanized mounting bolts and location of the through bolt holes I like the look, clean - nothing hiding the chrome wheels/swingarm etc.

Working on a link pin or hitch pin with clip or safety lock for a quick release that will work with the existing bolt hole locations - chrome of course, stock up on the red lock tight in the mean time. My .02 worth.

 

[mrreynosa]

I've got a Uni-Go trailer on order with Schoolhouse, should arrive in two weeks. I had two different engineers check out the Denray hitch for me - mainly for sway issues. Both came back with positive reports on this hitch for the Uni-Go trailer using the Uni-Go hitch adapter. The universal joint connection and single wheel takes the low sway out of the equation as the Uni-Go will lean with you and not torque the hitch. Could be an issue with two wheeled trailers - steel fatigue could occur where the mounting tube stops on the hitch side and could develop stress cracks over time.

When I received the hitch I wasn't happy with the mounting hardware, looked like a quick trip to the local hardware store - galvanized nuts/bolts - they don't tell you this or give you an option, it's a supprise . I changed them out for chrome, another $70 or so. I also didn't like the thru-bolt location/angle on the mounting tube for the hitch bar. You can't put the bolts in from the top side :dontknow: the fender/chrome trim is in the way. You have to install the bolts through the bottom with the heads down, nuts up. My thought is you always want the nut on the bottom just in case it works itself loose and falls off. The bolt may ride until you notice it, no chance with the bolt upside down. There is also a set bolt on the end of the mounting tube for added safety.

Other than the galvanized mounting bolts and location of the through bolt holes I like the look, clean - nothing hiding the chrome wheels/swingarm etc.

Working on a link pin or hitch pin with clip or safety lock for a quick release that will work with the existing bolt hole locations - chrome of course, stock up on the red lock tight in the mean time. My .02 worth.

Thank you! And also I send you a PM regarding about that hitch:dontknow:

 

[SVZuki]

I am not sure if it will fit with no issues with a 280. I have the 250 on and it is not too close for comfort. Any closer and I wouldn't have been thrilled.

 

[Okie9er]

http://www.hitchusa.com/services.html
http://picasaweb.google.com/alienai...ANDPHOTOS?feat=directlink#5287516542727089682
Theese folks may be worth a look see....

Okie9er

 

[Okie9er]

Man I dont know after lookin at this hitch, It just dont look like it could take side loading very well. But looks like it would clear a 280 tire.

Okie9er

 

[cj]

hitch

i have one i had it custom made.way better than anything you can buy.and most hitches only fit a 240 tire..mine was made for a 300 tire..the guy that makes this also made me my grille..here some pics...

ill send you a pic of hitch on weekend if you want

 

[KC Cruiser]

Hitch on the bike

Slipped the hitch on my bike so you could see all sides installed. I've got a 250 EIII on a stock rim, not sure how much wider a 280 is - you could probably find out here on the forum somewhere. I measured the 250 on my stock rim at just under 10" (9 7/8"), the mounting tubes measure 11 1/4" clear inside face to inside face. If you follow recommended clearances you wouldn't want to go over 10 3/4" total tire width on a rim without modifying the mounting tube brackets, cutting off the existing brackets and welding off-set brackets on to push them out - maybe flush with the outside of the fender or chrome trim (you'd have to re-chrome mounting tubes). You could spread the hitch bar 1/2" to 1" pretty easy, any more could distort the look and could be too much of an angle to slide into the mounting tubes - I have to flex it in a bit to get it in the mounting tubes now. Hope this helps.

 

[mrreynosa]

Slipped the hitch on my bike so you could see all sides installed. I've got a 250 EIII on a stock rim, not sure how much wider a 280 is - you could probably find out here on the forum somewhere. I measured the 250 on my stock rim at just under 10" (9 7/8"), the mounting tubes measure 11 1/4" clear inside face to inside face. If you follow recommended clearances you wouldn't want to go over 10 3/4" total tire width on a rim without modifying the mounting tube brackets, cutting off the existing brackets and welding off-set brackets on to push them out - maybe flush with the outside of the fender or chrome trim (you'd have to re-chrome mounting tubes). You could spread the hitch bar 1/2" to 1" pretty easy, any more could distort the look and could be too much of an angle to slide into the mounting tubes - I have to flex it in a bit to get it in the mounting tubes now. Hope this helps.

Thanx a lot for you help! I measure the size of the 280 and is 11 inches wide so if the hitch is 11 1/4 clear side to side I should be good in that area. Now my next issue will be how low those brackets drop down in the inside so they will not be rubbing against the tire. I notice that you hitch does not show much the bolts that hold the hitch to the mounting brackets because another member send me a link http://picasaweb.google.com/alienai...ANDPHOTOS?feat=directlink#5287516542727089682 for a pick with our bikes with the hitch and the bolts really stick out. And sorry if I keep nagging you about this but I just wonder if is going to work out with my hard case saddle bags mounting brackets and the passenger backrest mounting brackets. Worst scenario i just put the fricking stock tire back. is just such a pain the put the 280 back on the swing arm