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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gents (and ladies) I am trying to install some lights for my license plate...

I HAD some on... and when I took them off, I taped over the wires so that they wouldn't make contact during the MOD period I just went through.

However, when I try to connect the ones I got, I keep blowing a fuse...

So, I need KEY ACTIVATED source of power...

THe lights are the Bolt LED's that shine onto the plate.

Might I be doing something wrong by trying to use 4 of them (one in each license plate bolt hole? ) THey're LED's!! They don't draw that much power! Before I was only using 2.

I remember an old trick from my car stereo days...
Can I run a wire (conductive wire exposed) over the blade of a fuse (say to my headlamp) for key activated power? It is a 15 Amp fuse... I can't imagine the 4 little LED's will/could/would make a big difference.

My bike was already Debeavered when I got it... and when I got it inspected for MD, I found out that I didn't have a license plate light... so I paid the shop to put in the LED Light bolts so I could pass inspection... I was using the same wires he was when I tried to wire up my lights and the fuse blew...... the original lights/wires for the plate light in the beaver tail appear long gone...

Just need power.

A guy a while back mentioned that there was an orange wire just above the ignition in a socket plug that isn't being used... he said that it was a source of key activated power.... Anyone know?? I've found that wire... just not sure if I can use it.
 

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Adding 2 LEDs should not be enough to blow a fuse.

Anywho - just tap into your running light wire for your tail light.
 

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Adding 2 LEDs should not be enough to blow a fuse.

Anywho - just tap into your running light wire for your tail light.
I agree, adding two LEDs should not add too much. Are you sure your not hooking them up incorrectly? I just used the wire that was already there for my stock connection. I just did the same this last weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Adding 2 LEDs should not be enough to blow a fuse.

Anywho - just tap into your running light wire for your tail light.
OK... when you say running light... on the rear? there is no running light... unless there is and I don't know about it... there are the two turn signals and the brake light... is one of the wires going to the brake light the running light that you're talking about? if so, which one? and will having the BackOff Brake Light Modulator be an issue?

As for the blowing of the fuse... when I bought the bike, it had been debeavered... I didn't find out that it didn't have a light for the plate until I went for inspection... to pass inspection, I went and got 2 of the LED Plate Bolts off the shelf and told him to install them. From his installation, I could see that one wire was spliced into the wires running to the tail light and what I thought used to be the plug for the plate light when it had the beaver tail... I really don't know...

fast forward... I just had a guy put on the Raw Design LED strip with the brake light in the center. So there is a whole mess of wires under there now in addition to a resistor thingy to slow down the blink rate.

I used what I am 150% positive were the same lines for power and ground that the shop used when I had the plate lights installed back in 2008... for some reason, those same wires did NOT work this time... I blew the 15 amp fuse for the blinker. replaced it and the blinkers are fine...

Next failed attempt was... I have (or had) LED's on the bike and a push button switch right behind the ignition... I always turn on the LED's when I ride at night for visibility and looks... so I figured I'd wire the plate lights in with the LED's... not 100% legal but I need the plate light at night... no copper can tell in the day time if I have one or if it is on... So, I wired it in... hit the button and the 3 amp fuse that is in the LED circuit blew... I replaced it after I took the plate lights out of the circuit and the LED's still don't work... so I'll have to trace that whole system out this weekend... or just do without LED's for a while (at least up until the meet in June).

Bottom line, I really want to leave nothing to chance with the cops... I need to get a plate light installed...

So now, back to my original post... I need a source of power that is powered off the ignition...

Dumb question ... but here goes... If I wire it directly off the battery with a push button, what amp fuse do I need to use? I am electrically stoopid and probably shouldn't have even tried this in the first place! :cus::cus:
 

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Your tail light is Run/brake.

That is what I mean by running lights.

It is key hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Your tail light is Run/brake.

That is what I mean by running lights.

It is key hot.
That's what I'm after... I just have to figure out which one is RUN and which one is BRAKE... I'll find it... thanks S.R.

No fuse or anything necessary... right? Just tap for power and run a ground?
 

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No need for a fuse, just tap into the rear running light wire and also you can use the ground it has with it.

Are the lights you have grounding to wherever you are mounting them? It could be you're wiring them up backwards and shorting the hot wire through the base of the bulb. Normally the bulb and wiring is insulated from the base. I'm assuming these have two wires coming out.
 

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Check your LEDs individually for a short, before you wire them into a more critical system, like your running lights. You have a problem somewhere...
 

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My bike was debevered when I purched it as well, yet they left spare set of wires of which I thought went to the white light off of the debevered white light for the license tag. I used that and didn't cut into any of my brake lights. Mine is an 08 so I would assume that was on all the models. From the wiring diagram there should be two wires, a Grey and a Black/White one with a connector on it. This is what I used.

http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/rbc1225/LicenseLight.jpg
 
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