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The filters are supposed to be turned on two full turns after the rubber 0-ring makes contact with the case. That's DAMN tight. I used a pair of filter plyers to take mine off last night when I changed my oil. I got it off but needed two hands on the plyers to grip the filter enough to get it off. I really don't understand why they say it has to be on that tight.
It actually doesn't. Put it hand tight. and go 1/2 to 1 turn with socket and it is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Update: changed the oil today.. took much longer than expected only due to the oil filter being a pain to remove. I did try to remove some of the plastic but later realized it wasn't necessary. I had a swiveling oil filter strap wrench but it wound up being too big on the filter.. my simple solution, grab a tiny pebble from the ground and wedge between the strap surface and the filter and voila i got it to move off. With (2) 2x4's under the kickstand for clearance, I drained both oil drains fully and let the filter drip out fully as well. Interestingly i was able to get 3.8 quarts out of the bike and then replaced 3.8 quart. But the uh oh moment came when i removed the oil funnel and what, the oil was right at the top of the inlet.. i thought for a moment and was like, hmm, maybe its normal since the filter is empty perhaps. I closed the oil cap and then started her up for 30 seconds and turned off and then opened the cap to see, yes, the oil had subsided down into the hole, nice! So all in all, very easy, and will be even easier and quicker next time as i installed a oil filter with a nut on the end.
I also drained and filled the gear oil with 75w90 i had laying around from my other bike. I did this while the bike was as level as possible using (2) 2x4's under the kickstand, again very simple. I love how large the bolts are and how they pretty much stop when they have torqued enough.. i have a tendency to over torque bolts but these ones are not the stripping type from what i can tell.
 

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The M109R has dual oil sumps.
If you look at the pan when it is off the bike you can see that it is divided in half.
When you add oil it only goes into one half and does not get into the other portion until is circulated there by the oil pump.
I install 3 quarts, then start the bike and let it idle for a couple of minutes, then add the rest to top it off.

BCS
LGB/FJB

Ignore the arrows in the photo, they were there to point out something to someone else.
 

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The oil pan bolts will strip very easily if your not careful. Make sure that you torque them to spec. You should grab a service manual. There is a lot of good info in it! Its saved by a$$ more than once!
 

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Thanks guys... rode home from the dealer, about a 1hr trip thru back country roads and some highway...here are my initial thoughts:

Feel: surprisingly the bike feels fairly nimble and handles quite well. I didnt want to push too much in the bends especially didnt want to scrape a peg but didnt seem worried that I was anywhere near that threshold.. note: i felt a bit more concerned of peg clearance around right curves

Power: Since i'm in the 500 mile break-in period i didnt go past 4k and tried to keep under 3500 with a few slight pulls here and there, but i can tell already that she is a real mover.. perhaps may even feel like my former 14R once i get the chance to let her loose after break-in

Shifting: As expected, clunk into first and then the 1-2 shift is the clunkiest, but getting to the other gears is nice and smooth.

Driveline: I did notice that she seems to not like chugging along at the slightest of throttle input and sorta has an on/off pulsing but nothing concerning.

Seating: the seat feels firm yet comfortable. My wife feels comfortable on the back as well

Seating Position: I'm about 5'10' and feel slighty stretched out to the bars.. perhaps may consider risers at some point

Suspension: Feels a bit stiff but not bad either

Overall: Very happy with the purchase and can say that she feels similar to my former Honda Fury but differs in that she is quite a brawny brawler comparatively and the power is on another level. Same when compared to my former Kaw Mean Streak, when i would 2-up with my wife the Meanie would feel quite weak in the low end, but not the 9, she shrugs off the extra weight of the passenger without a second thought View attachment 420473
I purchased the twin to your bike and love it!!
ecu flash is a must
found my 9 would not be smooth at steady cruise throttle
v stream windshield was a must for me
installed saddle man bags and like them for price
bought Suzuki gel seat (eBay) and was impressed (softer and wider fyi)
great lookin bike and don’t smile too much when playing😉
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Interesting that you say that about the ecu. Just last night I was reading about the surging this bike has at low throttle cruising and it does get annoying. I read that a fuel controller or flash is needed to resolve that. I may need to look into it sooner rather than later
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Update: installed Ebay VStream windshield.. was a bear to figure out which adapter went where and then even after figuring that out, things didnt quite line up on the top clamps.. had to bend to proper orientation.. but it worked.. i like the clear look and glad i went with it so to retain the view of the headlight cowl


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Update: installed Ebay VStream windshield.. was a bear to figure out which adapter went where and then even after figuring that out, things didnt quite line up on the top clamps.. had to bend to proper orientation.. but it worked.. i like the clear look and glad i went with it so to retain the view of the headlight cowl
The China knock offs fitment has never been quite right even though it looks the same as the authentic VStream and hardware.
The authentic VStream and hardware from National Cycles do fit correctly.
National Cycles does not make a clear VStream for the M109R, they only offer dark and light tinted.

A bigger issue is to make sure the China knock off is made from Polycarbonate and not Acrylic.
Acrylic shatters when struck hard enough.


BCS
LGB/FJB
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Update: installed rear floorboards for the wife. Was able to make them work like stock by drilling a small hole in each to retain the spring and ball bearing mechanism

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Update: added a windshield extender to help cut down further on the wind and buffeting. Also adjusted the clutch to add some slack.. it was shifting rather clunky and was adjusted with very little slack from the dealer - no visibe gap at the clutch perch. From what I read as the clutch breaks in and during acceleration the clutch can take up slack.
I also plan to reroute the clutch cable as a next step once the risers arrive.
I'll report back on the results of both changes once I get out next.

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It's looking great! (y) (y)

If the gap you are showing is what you have when the clutch starts to get stiff, you could add a little more slack. If it works OK it's fine like that, but most have close to twice that much. I used to go by the "two quarters" method where you put two quarters in the gap and they should just barely stay there, but I give it more than that now. I pull the clutch all the way and make sure it is disengaged fully (bike doesn't crepe in gear) then then adjust it from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Thank you. The gap in the pic is at rest; not touching the clutch. I left the lock nut finger tight so I can further adjust after the next ride and am fully prepared to add more gap, figured I'd start with one quarters worth of gap as a baseline. Previously from dealer there was no gap while at rest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Happy to report that the $20 investment on the windshield extender was definitely worth it, keeps the wind now headed over the top of my helmet. Also, the gap in the clutch was a marked improvement as well - not perfect - but definitely shifts better than before with less jarring shifts. I may add some more slack and see if any more improvement.
 

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If that is without you touching it, it should be about right. Mine has very little gap at rest, with the 3 quarters being when it is pulled and you start feeling the clutch tension on it. As long as the bike doesn't creep in gear when the clutch is fully pulled, and you can get it in 1st or 2nd without it lunging, you can have as much slack as you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Yes, working great now.. kind of annoyed that they set it wrong at the dealer especially after the tech mentioned that its adjusted with slack in it already lol.. anyway, if we all listened to the dealer we'd have no war stories to talk of ;)
Next up: riser extensions arrived. Need to remove the headlight bucket and see about adding some slack in the lines, especially brake line and clutch via reroute.. not sure just yet whether i'll need to run the cable behind the triple tree or not, will see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Update: tackled 2 jobs today and very pleased with the results:
1. Rerouted the clutch cable. Tied a zip tie at the end and then connected more zip ties to be able to fish it out later. Pulled down from the bottom under the bike until the whole length was out and then routed on the outside of the motor mount hugging the frame
2. Installed 2" Revo Risers. Routed both the clutch and throttle cables behind the triple trees. Had to disconnect the brake line perch and then remove the line from its bung and then i later bent the bracket to be in-line with the new location of the brake line. After zip-tying both clutch and throttle side lines, i can turn side-to-side with no stretching or rubbing on the tank
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