M109 Rider Forums banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
363 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed my new front motor mounts today. Went surprisingly smooth. This is a pretty easy job for those thinking about it. I was really surprised how worn these mounts were with about 8500 miles on them. These pics don’t even do justice to how worn these looked. Here’s pics of one side worn, the other side pretty good. I should have taken a pic next to the new ones. Night and day.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,824 Posts
Nice. I'll maybe picking your brain when the weather turns here. Been -40 for the last few weeks. Global warming my ass. I have 4 of the hard uppers I'm gonna put in the 4 lowers. I'm at 26,000 kms so about 16K miles and noticed vibrations after long summer holiday trip
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
363 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Yeah I was a little intimidated by this job, but it was really easy and uneventful. I need to search how to change the lower rears. Haven't seen that "how to" yet. Took about 2 hours......would have been less but I had to basically do half the job twice. I got all the way down to the last few small bolts and realized I forgot the plate that goes under the motor mount bolt that goes through the mounts. Its the plate that the foot peg bracket bolts onto on the left side of the bike. So after a few choice words I had to go back and remove the 6 frame bolts again. I was hoping I could just remove that one bolt, but it wouldn't line up without removing the others again. I also stopped to look up the torque specs. I did have the plastics off the bike already though for other projects. Now that ive done it once I think I could knock this job out in half the time if I did it again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,824 Posts
Should be about the same just moving the pressure off the back side. Only thing I'm worried about is putting to much pressure on the oil pan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
363 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
lol, I just realized the -40 comment.....it was about 57 here today, so perfect day to hop on it.

I noticed the vibration a lot last summer. I realized my front tire was cupped so bought a new one hoping that would get rid of the vibration. It did about 55%, hopefully this will take care of the other 45%.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,566 Posts
Should be about the same just moving the pressure off the back side. Only thing I'm worried about is putting to much pressure on the oil pan
Fronts are easy as pie.......Much harder to do the rear lowers, you have to strip the bike down to where you are about 15 minutes from having the motor totally out of the bike :eek:

(Ok maybe a slight exaggeration.....but not by much) :p

BCS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Fronts are easy as pie.......Much harder to do the rear lowers, you have to strip the bike down to where you are about 15 minutes from having the motor totally out of the bike :eek:

(Ok maybe a slight exaggeration.....but not by much) :p

BCS
I read on another thread someone saying you're about 5 minutes away from having the motor out if you're doing the rear lowers...so maybe you're not exaggerating that much lol

I'm hoping my poly fronts will hold up for some time and the rear lowers are ok. I still need to get it out in the daylight and find a space where i can see the rear lowers.
The rear uppers look fine...and I haven't seen much mention of the rear lowers going...so fingers crossed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,566 Posts
I read on another thread someone saying you're about 5 minutes away from having the motor out if you're doing the rear lowers...so maybe you're not exaggerating that much lol

I'm hoping my poly fronts will hold up for some time and the rear lowers are ok. I still need to get it out in the daylight and find a space where i can see the rear lowers.
The rear uppers look fine...and I haven't seen much mention of the rear lowers going...so fingers crossed.
The fronts go bad quickly and the rears will start heading south due to not changing the fronts in a timely manner.

As far as the 5 minutes some guys are faster than others I suppose.......I am getting old and slow.....so things I used to do all day, now takes me all day to do it. :joke:

BCS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
974 Posts
I only did the front & rear, not the lower when I replaced mine. I was very surprised how the feel of the bike was much better after the swap. There is a little vibration now, but it has gotten better since I did the swap 2 years ago.

One thing ... I wish I had flushed the rad while I had it apart to do the mounts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,551 Posts
Based on my own experiences, and discussions with others, it seems that if the front motor mounts are worn/warped badly, chances are the rear mounts are not far behind, due to the prolonged pressure and stress resulting from the front mounts being deformed and not stabilizing the weight and movement of the motor properly. Therefore, when the fronts are extremely worn, it’s best to change the rears as well. I’ve personally seen and handled a set of the newly designed, aftermarket, stiffer mounts, and they are vastly better than the OEM mounts, in every way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
I read on another thread someone saying you're about 5 minutes away from having the motor out if you're doing the rear lowers...so maybe you're not exaggerating that much lol

I'm hoping my poly fronts will hold up for some time and the rear lowers are ok. I still need to get it out in the daylight and find a space where i can see the rear lowers.
The rear uppers look fine...and I haven't seen much mention of the rear lowers going...so fingers crossed.
Pretty much. However, to take the motor out, there are a few more things that you would want to do. I would say realistically about 15 minutes from having it out. At that point, we actually use a ratchet strap to sling the motor. I then can use a BAPB (Big Ass Pry Bar) and can pry it forward in the sling. There is just enough clearance that we don't have to twist it too much to get them done. The upper rears aren't too bad as there are brackets you can undo and that leaves it just in the bottoms. Those are the bad ones as the brackets are welded to the frame. From start to finish, for all 6 motor mounts we charge 10 hours of labor. I have done 4 or 5 of them and it is about a grand, but that includes an antifreeze change and the motor mounts themselves. The local dealer wants $1400 plus parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,450 Posts
I have been pointing out for years that the front mounts are worn at 6000miles, by 8000miles you should think about replacing them---- and this is for all years!. If you do then early enough, you can stave off doing the lower rears possibly for another 30k miles or more. If you let the fronts go too long, then the lower rears should be done. The upper rears are by far the easiest to do and are the harder compound already---- and usually last the longest.

You should replace the mounts you are doing with the harder compound mounts from the upper rears at the minimum.

There are a couple of options on aftermarket mounts.

Scorp makes a set---- or at least he used to.

or you can go here: http://www.secure.billydump.com/store/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=31

and he sells urethane sets that I helped prototype.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
So who has used Polyurethane Motor Mounts vs using the harder ones from the back. Feedback would be nice
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Anybody? No??
Unfortunately I've only installed the poly ones just a couple months back during the winter...and it' still winter here...so I haven't had an opportunity to ride the bike.
From reading other threads though, it seemed like only positive feedback from either using the poly or harder rear mounts in the front.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,126 Posts
I have been pointing out for years that the front mounts are worn at 6000miles, by 8000miles you should think about replacing them---- and this is for all years!. If you do then early enough, you can stave off doing the lower rears possibly for another 30k miles or more. If you let the fronts go too long, then the lower rears should be done. The upper rears are by far the easiest to do and are the harder compound already---- and usually last the longest.

You should replace the mounts you are doing with the harder compound mounts from the upper rears at the minimum.

There are a couple of options on aftermarket mounts.

Scorp makes a set---- or at least he used to.

or you can go here: http://www.secure.billydump.com/store/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=31

and he sells urethane sets that I helped prototype.
Coming up to 6000mi.
Order placed, thanks!
:bigthumbsup:
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top