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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Talking with my dealer while turning in my Burple for her first oil change and service. Was told to not change to synthetic until around 8000 miles!!!! What do you guys say? I have 1000 miles because it took a week to get her in the schedule for the service and I couldn't stay off her!!! They told me @ 600 that it wouldn't hurt to put the extra miles on while waiting for service....true
 

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I put Amsoil full synthetic in mine at 750ish miles (forgot to order the oil when I should have AND I rode it a LOT LOT more than I thought I would also 8) ) VERY hard to not ride it when the weather is good :bigthumbsup:

Bike runs better with synthetic, but can't really say how much as I only got to put about another 100-150 miles on it after the change. But I noticed right off the bat that it shifts smoother with fewer missed shifts and less noise, especially into 2nd gear.
 

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Years ago, it was important to break in an engine fully before dumping synthetic in the crank case. It's just not the case anymore. Many cars come with syn. in them from the factory (Corvette states on the engine that only Mobil 1 to be used) . If you think that the Corvette engine and BMW engines are highly tuned to make that a requirement, just look at spec's. for the mighty 109!
 

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I'm going synthetic @ 2500 mile, why cause I can :D
and it's a number Myself and riding Buddy picked as a safe milage to do it :bigthumbsup: all parts should be broke in for sure by 2500 :D
 

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My dealer told me that it would be bad for the clutch, do to this bikes size. Hog wash. Put synthetic in at at the second oil change. Bike runs awesome.
 

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I'm at just over 4000 miles and I'm ready to do an oil change on mine. Is there a synthetic oil that I can get at my local parts store that anyone would recommend?
 

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Just make sure it is for motorcycles (4-stroke, wet clutch compatible, etc.).
 

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search is your friend. this topic has came up, and been addressed several times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did the search and, unfortunately never found this exact question. Thanks for your input everyone, I have instructed them to use a blend this time and I will go to 100% synth. next time...
 

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well, since you are only looking at the answers in this thread, know that no one gave you the right one. the answer is: there is no reason synth shouldn't be used at 0 miles right out of the crate.
 

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phaed said:
well, since you are only looking at the answers in this thread, know that no one gave you the right one. the answer is: there is no reason synth shouldn't be used at 0 miles right out of the crate.Â
I said that on the forth response. "from the factory" :D
 

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some of the things on here are true some do things dif then others which is whats its all about :bigthumbsup:
but just so you know your rings and pistons brake in in less then 600miles but the trans and everything else well lets just say you want to wait tell you hit 2000miles i will :D
 

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1st change at 625 miles was with suzuki plain old 10-40w oil and their filter. I did another oil change at 1200 miles and used Repsol 10-50w full synthetic and the K & N filter with the nut on the end. no problems, at 3500 miles now.
 

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phaed was exactly right.... Synthetics can be installed right from the get-go....

Anyone that says different either doesn't know or they are speaking of "Years Ago" technology... Not only are the Synthetics today different PAO vs: Ester/DiEster, but the factory machining has changed to allow break-in almost instantaeously.

I usually recommend going to 600 miles on your initial change for the following reasons. 1: the oil is already in there, why waste it. 2: For the same reason the OEM recommends it partly and that is to let it be used to carry machining and casting debris and then dump it.

Many people are "trained" at dealerships to try and sell you on "Their Oil and Filter" . They are "Taught" usually to say either using something else, especially synthetics, may/will void the warranty or The Dreaded "Break-In" Period..... HOGWASH... They were taught that because the Dealership gets a parts discount on all their parts purchases for the year and they need to sell that oil and filters to unknowing, misinformed customers...
 

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Oil Doc, keep up the good work!,I believe in you. :bigthumbsup:
 

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I usually hang out at the GL1800 and Valk Boards but regularly browse this site because I'm interested in what everyone's experience with the M109 has been to date. But this subject of synthetic oils always raises my interest because I use them exclusively (only Redline Oil for me). I wanted to comment on Oil Doc's statement which seems to say that present-day synthetics are PAO-based as opposed to di-esters, esters, etc. Not so! There are synthetics on the market that are still ester-based such as Redline (polyol ester) and Maxima (di-ester) as two examples. There are those, including me, who believe that ester-based synthetics are just a bit better than the PAO-based ones. Nothing wrong with Polyalphaolephen (PAO) oils, just that the ester-based ones are heads above the rest. Just my .02
 

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I feel a lot of it is how you ride. Synthetics (the right kind for yr bike) does make a difference. I used Mobil 1 Synthetic in my ZZR1200, Switched from MOTOL - and wanted a Synthetic that I could by at any Walmart, Auto Zone, etc. It work for me. :bigthumbsup: I put over 37,000 miles on that bike and traded her for the M109R. Cams and engine was great. Very little wear. If you want to spend the extra money and believe Synthetics ,ale a diff, then to each his/her own. I Synthetic oil makes my bike run better, less noise and is good for the bike, then I will switch. :bigthumbsup:

Now i feel if you abuse a bike, then no matter what you put in - you get very little results. Don't change yr oil, improper warm-up, etc - will, Dino or Synthetics may not help you.
 
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