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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, i will start with saying, i have an 08 C109R, It has 15k miles on it!

Lately i have been practicing a lot of low speed maneuvers and the other day, after doing this for an extended period of time (with cool down breaks) i just about lost almost all clutch. I have heard at around 15k the stock clutch cable becomes useless. I adjusted my clutch at the bottom, at the top its all the way in, used 2 quarters to set it at the clutch handle ((4mm))

Now, ((and possibly before if i did not notice it somehow)) at higher gears, if i get it a romping, the clutch seems to slip a bit and then catches back up. I have read about the tubular nut but I'm not sure that is the problem.. and with only 15k on it I'm not entirely convinced the clutch may be dead.

On the plus side i can now full lock and grind floorboard feelers all the way around a circle left and right.

I have gone ahead and ordered a new OEM clutch cable for it in case it was just stretched. Any recommendations on a lube for the cable? I figure i should throw some in before I install it!

Basically i am looking for advice, suggestions, thoughts.. Ect on what could be causing my clutch slippage at only 15k miles.
 

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I would try giving it a little more slack and see if it helps. I adjust the lower connector so the upper connector is about the mid point of its adjustment range. Doesn't really matter which end you adjust, so it's easier to leave more slack at the top and adjust it there.

I lost mine once while in extended stop and go traffic for several miles. The further it went the less the clutch wanted to release. I finally got it off the road and added some more free play to it and it worked again. Once traffic started moving and the clutch cooled off I had to readjust it to get it to engage fully. That was years ago and it still works fine today.
 

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So, i will start with saying, i have an 08 C109R, It has 15k miles on it!

Lately i have been practicing a lot of low speed maneuvers and the other day, after doing this for an extended period of time (with cool down breaks) i just about lost almost all clutch. I have heard at around 15k the stock clutch cable becomes useless. I adjusted my clutch at the bottom, at the top its all the way in, used 2 quarters to set it at the clutch handle ((4mm))

Now, ((and possibly before if i did not notice it somehow)) at higher gears, if i get it a romping, the clutch seems to slip a bit and then catches back up. I have read about the tubular nut but I'm not sure that is the problem.. and with only 15k on it I'm not entirely convinced the clutch may be dead.

On the plus side i can now full lock and grind floorboard feelers all the way around a circle left and right.

I have gone ahead and ordered a new OEM clutch cable for it in case it was just stretched. Any recommendations on a lube for the cable? I figure i should throw some in before I install it!

Basically i am looking for advice, suggestions, thoughts.. Ect on what could be causing my clutch slippage at only 15k miles.
On our M/9, that short slippage happened when front motor mounts were worn because under the hard acceleration the engine moved so much it stretched the clutch cable. Routing the cable where it has more room also helped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Zoom: in the morning i will try that.
TheVili: I have tested for engine rock, and i don't have that yet, Thank God.. So I'm not sure it is the engine mounts.

Now, someone correct me if I'm wrong but this does NOT sound like the clutch bearing right?
 

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On M9, most of the bikes had the front mounts worn at 10-15K miles and I had mine worn at 8K. I am not sure if the "C" 9 do have same mounts...Just saying...
 

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Zoom: in the morning i will try that.
TheVili: I have tested for engine rock, and i don't have that yet, Thank God.. So I'm not sure it is the engine mounts.

Now, someone correct me if I'm wrong but this does NOT sound like the clutch bearing right?
If the tube nut loosens up the clutch won't release, it's like the cable breaks but there is still tension on it. I don't think that's your problem. I would just add as much slack as you can while still allowing the clutch to release and see what it does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have not forgotten this post! I have double checked my mounts and they still seem rock solid. The person who owned the bike before me says he had replaced the mounts on the front himself, so, hopefully that is true. I did get a clutch cable and it came in this Saturday so i will be replacing it soon! never done this before but it looks easy as could be, Someone tell me if im wrong here but, i should be able to tie the bottom of the old one to the top of the new one and just carefully pull trough yes? I havent taken a good enough look. The clutch is still slipping like crazy if i romp on it (example, if i romp, change gears, and romp again, it wont grab for a few seconds) And i did try to adjust the clutch for more slack.. did not help.
 

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That's exactly how you do it, tie the new onto the old and pull it down through. The only thing you want to change, if it's not been done already, is to route the new cable over the motor mount instead of under it as it is from the factory. You'll see what I mean when you pull the old one down. The reason we move them is due to the motor rocking forward under hard acceleration and pushing against the cable, which can partially disengage it.

I have found on some of them that it's easier to tie a cord to the top end of the old cable, pull the cable down to near the bottom of the radiator where you can access it easily, then tie the cord to the new one and pull it back up. From there to the back is easy to get to. Look at yours and see which end you would rather try to pull through. The key to either method is to pull the cord down with the old cable so you can use it to bring the new one in place.

For a new cable I adjust the ends so the top has at least half of the adjustment left when the cable is just pulled tight. That way you have plenty of room to screw it in to give you more slack.

You may read folks referring to "the two quarter' method of adjustment. What that means is you take two quarters and stack them up, then slip them between the clutch and the perch. They should just fall out. It's an easy way of making sure you have close to the right amount of slack in the cable. I've seen some where the clutch lever wasn't within a quarter inch of fully closing and they still worked.

Once you have the new cable on, take the old cable and coil it up so you can stow it under the seat. Use that cord from above to wrap around it to hold it coiled. Then if you break one away from home you have a cable and a way to install it. Most folks on here keep a spare clutch cable.
 
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