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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a m109r 2008 with 19,000 miles on it, I got it with just a little over 18,000. No weird knocking noises nor did it run weird. But just changed the oil and found a uncomfortable amount of metal flakes ( not little specs actual flakes) on rear drain plug magnet and in oil pan. Pulled stator cover off no flakes, pulled clutch cover no flakes no missing teeth etc. In the process of pulling motor to check transmission am I on the right path or what
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I have a m109r 2008 with 19,000 miles on it, I got it with just a little over 18,000. No weird knocking noises nor did it run weird. But just changed the oil and found a uncomfortable amount of metal flakes ( not little specs actual flakes) on rear drain plug magnet and in oil pan. Pulled stator cover off no flakes, pulled clutch cover no flakes no missing teeth etc. In the process of pulling motor to check transmission am I on the right path or what View attachment 419908
Welcome to the board, cheers! 馃嵒
Those are little too large, you are right.
Did you open secondary drive as well?

Secondary Drive Fail
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah the front plug had your normal next to no specs on it, I ran it down the road about total of 20 mins after oil change, came back drained it and there wasn't much
 

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That is very chunky.
Since the bike is still running, I would have to guess that came from your transmission.
Are you having issues with 2nd gear?

BCS
 

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The secondary drive usually breaks off teeth and may or not make it back into the sump. Those look like flakes, are they very thick? And does it shift OK and stay in gear? I'm thinking it's more likely to be pieces of the transmission dogs, but I've not seen one that had flakes that big.

Lol, posted at exactly the same time as BCS. At least we're both thinking the same thing. :)

And welcome to the forum too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thinner than paper, it shifts fine in all gears except 1st to 2nd, when taking off from dead stop, 1st into neutral wait for rpms to die down before going into 2nd otherwise it won't go into 2nd without making a crappy noise, it doesn't drop out of gear though
 

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If it were mine, I think I would just ride it and see if it shows up again. I can't imagine how that much steel would stay in the engine that long, but maybe it has been in there since new.

Most of these shift with a grunch going into 2nd unless you shift them really early, as in as soon as it starts moving. Mine I can shift like that or wind it out a lot more, otherwise it will grunch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I doubt it but i wish I lt was, it was MY first oil change on it, I've almost got the motor out to check the transmission. My buddy and I agree that we don't care what vehicle it is, this is not normal, unless I do pull everything and everything checks out, I will still more than likely send the transmission off to get gears under cut and get new dogs and new forks just so I don't have to do this again for a long time. I don't want to run it and have it grenade on me then I'm completely out for next season
 

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I have my M109R for a few months now and have notices when I change gears or simply ride the bike and do the shifts from 1st to 2nd to 3rd and so on ....kicks in kind of hard...I can hear a strong "click" on the transmission. I was wondering if that is a normal behavior on this motorcycles. Even If Im in Neutral and change it to first gear, I feel a hard kick not too smooth....Is that normal on this bikes??
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well from my experience and what everyone else says,, these bikes have tranny issues, call R&D down in Florida, I talked to the guy the other day and im about to ship mine off, for new dogs, forks and to get gears under cut its roughly 1,000$
 

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If its going into gear and staying in gear, try adjusting the clutch cable a bit first.
You must have slack in these cables, if you have them adjusted too tight it can cause issues like you are experiencing.
Cost you noting to try so it's worth a shot.

I have taken to running the adjuster on the bars all the way in, then adjusting the bottom just toward the bike will try to creep forward while in gear with the clutch lever pulled.
Then tighten the bottom adjustment just a bit more to the point where the bike stops trying to creep forward while in 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled and lock it down.
Then use the adjuster on the bars only to make small trims if needed.

(Fun day today, killing time today on the forum while running my diesel truck through a manual regeneration, trying to solve an emissions issue that has me in limp mode)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes they are going to do a full inspection and give me a call after, but I told them I want it to where I don't have to worry about this crap for a long time
 
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