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Okay, first let me say that CanadianM109 your post with the pictures is awesome. :congrats: I studied the pics and the only part that I was not sure of, not because of any other reason, but that I have not had the bike apart to this point was the bolts that hold the shock to the dog bones, and the pivot point. I got past my worries and started jerking plastics off and slinging bolt and even the "resistor thingie" (the technical term) and all the brackets and what not. I even got the bolt out of the shock mount with out taking the shock off. (take a piece of 1x4 and use it as a pry bar between the ground and rear wheel. Lift the rear wheel and the bolt will wiggle right on out.) Then I tried to loosen the bolts on the frame connecting the front end of the dog bones.............this is the part that I would love to chat with the engineers at Suzuki for about 15-20 minutes, oh yeah and for the design of the clutch cable connector at the motor. :redfaced: Anyways as I digress, a broken socket, a snapped extention, and one 1/2 inch drive torque wrench thrown out of the garage and 61 yards down the street later, I think I have a busted blood vessel in my head.....my left eye is throbbing, I decided to put the bike back together.......not 2 inches lower. The 1x4 works great for getting the bolt back in the shock too. :D Does anyone have a suggestion how to break free these two satan spawned nuts, other than a plasma cutter............or C4. I would greatly appriciate any and all inputs. I did notice that these nuts have a sort of self locking contraption built in to them. If you look at the first groove of the nuts, they have (for lack of better words) a flange built into them that looks as if it puts pressure on the bolt, helping it to hold on for dear life as if it were welded on. :dontknow:
 

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Okay, first let me say that CanadianM109 your post with the pictures is awesome. :congrats: I studied the pics and the only part that I was not sure of, not because of any other reason, but that I have not had the bike apart to this point was the bolts that hold the shock to the dog bones, and the pivot point. I got past my worries and started jerking plastics off and slinging bolt and even the "resistor thingie" (the technical term) and all the brackets and what not. I even got the bolt out of the shock mount with out taking the shock off. (take a piece of 1x4 and use it as a pry bar between the ground and rear wheel. Lift the rear wheel and the bolt will wiggle right on out.) Then I tried to loosen the bolts on the frame connecting the front end of the dog bones.............this is the part that I would love to chat with the engineers at Suzuki for about 15-20 minutes, oh yeah and for the design of the clutch cable connector at the motor. :redfaced: Anyways as I digress, a broken socket, a snapped extention, and one 1/2 inch drive torque wrench thrown out of the garage and 61 yards down the street later, I think I have a busted blood vessel in my head.....my left eye is throbbing, I decided to put the bike back together.......not 2 inches lower. The 1x4 works great for getting the bolt back in the shock too. :D Does anyone have a suggestion how to break free these two satan spawned nuts, other than a plasma cutter............or C4. I would greatly appriciate any and all inputs. I did notice that these nuts have a sort of self locking contraption built in to them. If you look at the first groove of the nuts, they have (for lack of better words) a flange built into them that looks as if it puts pressure on the bolt, helping it to hold on for dear life as if it were welded on. :dontknow:
Nothing to help you, because i will be lower my 9 in 2 weeks, but wow....that was funny :D:D:D
 

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Okay, first let me say that CanadianM109 your post with the pictures is awesome. :congrats: I studied the pics and the only part that I was not sure of, not because of any other reason, but that I have not had the bike apart to this point was the bolts that hold the shock to the dog bones, and the pivot point. I got past my worries and started jerking plastics off and slinging bolt and even the "resistor thingie" (the technical term) and all the brackets and what not. I even got the bolt out of the shock mount with out taking the shock off. (take a piece of 1x4 and use it as a pry bar between the ground and rear wheel. Lift the rear wheel and the bolt will wiggle right on out.) Then I tried to loosen the bolts on the frame connecting the front end of the dog bones.............this is the part that I would love to chat with the engineers at Suzuki for about 15-20 minutes, oh yeah and for the design of the clutch cable connector at the motor. :redfaced: Anyways as I digress, a broken socket, a snapped extention, and one 1/2 inch drive torque wrench thrown out of the garage and 61 yards down the street later, I think I have a busted blood vessel in my head.....my left eye is throbbing, I decided to put the bike back together.......not 2 inches lower. The 1x4 works great for getting the bolt back in the shock too. :D Does anyone have a suggestion how to break free these two satan spawned nuts, other than a plasma cutter............or C4. I would greatly appriciate any and all inputs. I did notice that these nuts have a sort of self locking contraption built in to them. If you look at the first groove of the nuts, they have (for lack of better words) a flange built into them that looks as if it puts pressure on the bolt, helping it to hold on for dear life as if it were welded on. :dontknow:
Those are called self locker nuts, and yes , thats exactly what they do.......I used my 1/2" drive socket set to get them off. Sounds like yours might be corroded on just a bit.Did you try a 5 point socket, over an eight point? They have better gription[technical term] If you have access to a good air impact wrench that might be of some help to you as well.
 

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Lol, I can sympathize with your situation. The first time I had mine off I had many of the same thoughts, and lingering pains. :D

The key on both of the nuts is to use a long breaker bar, and at least a 1/2" drive socket wrench. Anything smaller can break. I use a piece of 1" or 1 1/4" pipe about 3 feet long over the ratchet.

On the clutch side, use the weight of the bike. Lift it up high, place the socket and bar on the nut, ratchet it down to the floor, then carefully lower the bike. The weight of over 700 lbs on the breaker will usually break the nut loose. That doesn't work on the throttle side unless you can position the bar to the front of the bike, but give it a try. But with a long enough lever you can move the world, right?

And were you trying to use the torque wrench as a breaker bar? That's a no-no as you can strain the tension bar in the wrench and make it not read correctly afterward. I think the only reason they put a reverse on them is so you can reposition it, not for removing bolts.
 

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I had the same problem. Soak them in penetrating oil. Allow to soak for about 10 mins. Use a breaker bar, or even better an air impact wrench. I ended up needing to heat them up with a torch then used the impact wrench. No easy way around it. Funny post!:bigthumbsup:
 

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Lol, I can sympathize with your situation. The first time I had mine off I had many of the same thoughts, and lingering pains. :D

The key on both of the nuts is to use a long breaker bar, and at least a 1/2" drive socket wrench. Anything smaller can break. I use a piece of 1" or 1 1/4" pipe about 3 feet long over the ratchet.

On the clutch side, use the weight of the bike. Lift it up high, place the socket and bar on the nut, ratchet it down to the floor, then carefully lower the bike. The weight of over 700 lbs on the breaker will usually break the nut loose. That doesn't work on the throttle side unless you can position the bar to the front of the bike, but give it a try. But with a long enough lever you can move the world, right?

And were you trying to use the torque wrench as a breaker bar? That's a no-no as you can strain the tension bar in the wrench and make it not read correctly afterward. I think the only reason they put a reverse on them is so you can reposition it, not for removing bolts.
:agree: I did it the same way, minus lowering the bike down. Now Dave, as mechanically inclined I know you are. I am very surprised that you were not able to obtain this feat (with an extra set of hands) in an evening.
I am starting to think that the incident while wiring the Streble horn was not a fluke :a20: (bet you wish you hadn't sold that air compressor now do you)?
I'm sure the first post will giving me a hard time, the second will be telling us that you were able to lower the that's beating your A$$. I have faith in you my friend
 

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I agree with zoom. I always use a fairly long breaker part and they come right off with just a little grunting and cussing :bigthumbsup:
 

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yes stick a socket with a leverage bar &spanner the other side ,the nuts come

loose,then take the weight of the suspension,slide out!

its fun the 1st time!
 

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Nothing to help you, because i will be lower my 9 in 2 weeks, but wow....that was funny :D:D:D
That was funny, now I know Im not the only crazy neighbor around

4 those satanic nuts... U need Jesus brother! Hey a prayer B4 anything always helps...
 

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Okay - I've got 1.5 inch bones that I'm gonna attempt to change to in the next few months. A quick question I have on this? Do I have to take the exhaust off to get to the right side bolts?:dontknow:

I have the Cobra Swepts.
I have not heard of anyone needing to remove their exhaust to install the bones
 

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NavyDave, I have to say that your post was great, very funny, although I'm sure that you didn't think so at the time.

I have to agree with BigPapa and Zoom. More leverage is what you need to break that frozen bolt and maybe a second pair of hands to help. Don't give up, i am sure you can get that bolt off.

Keep us posted.....
 

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I can totally relate to that:'(
 
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