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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have done a search and i believe i have read all there was posted here about the lowering bones, but i have not as of yet have been able to find a step by step how to replace the bones, Is there one posted here or am i chasing my tail :confused:
 

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Latinrascal said:
I have done a search and i believe i have read all there was posted here about the lowering bones, but i have not as of yet have been able to find a step by step how to replace the bones, Is there one posted here or am i chasing my tail :confused:
Get you hands on a Factory Service Manual....there is a detailed procedure for removing and reinstalling the stock bones. Even some tips on leaving all the bolts loose and then a final tightening procedure to simplify the task! The procedure will work for the shorter replacement bones!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bob i have a manual on order but unfortunately will not be in before i leave for my trip and was hoping to get the bones on tomorrow as i am leaving this weekend.

PS unless i am mistaken i read on one of the post that the lowering bones are actually longer!!
 

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Latinrascal said:
Bob i have a manual on order but unfortunately will not be in before i leave for my trip and was hoping to get the bones on tomorrow as i am leaving this weekend.

PS unless i am mistaken i read on one of the post that the lowering bones are actually longer!!
I'm not sure of the exact lengths between stock and the replacement bones! Let me see if I can shoot a pic of the page from the manual and get it to you!
 

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lowering bones are about 1/4" longer than stock which lowers the bike 2.5". I was going to do a step by step when i lowered mine, took pictures and ran in to a little trouble half way thru and forgot to take the pics for the rest of the procedure. I might be able to make what i have work well enough for everybody to understand but it may be awhile before i get enough spare time to do it ::)
 

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bob109 said:
I'm not sure of the exact lengths between stock and the replacement bones! Let me see if I can shoot a pic of the page from the manual and get it to you!
I took a couple pics of the pages from the manual but unfortunately they are blurry when I try to post them. Sorry!
 
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If you bought the bones from Jason, the direction are pretty comprehensive. My only suggestion is to use a hydralic floor jack to lift the rear wheel and tuck it all the way into the fender after the shock is disconnected. That makes installation easier. Also remember the bike is now lower so the bike won't touch the ground anymore to get the bike off the bike jack when you are done. Put some 2x4 under the tires that will make it easier to pull the bike jack out. Good luck with the sleeve. Don't lose any needle bearings!
 

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I'll be lowering mine soon. I guess I can do a step-by-step and post it.
I've done step-by-steps a bunch for the NHTOC website.

I already did Firecats so I have the procedure down pat.

Just got to remember NOT to crush my pinky finger this time.
That shyt HURT!! When the lock nuts let loose, they let loose.
If your a wrencher, it's gonna hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Its the needle bearing that i am worried about. I am pretty handy in the garage but just didn't want any surprises when i take it apart like"Needle bearings fell out!"
 

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Latinrascal said:
Its the needle bearing that i am worried about. I am pretty handy in the garage but just didn't want any surprises when i take it apart like"Needle bearings fell out!"
The needle bearings won't be an issue.... if you take your time when removing the long bolt from the linkage. If you rush, you will find out real quick how fun it is to repack those little suckers. And let me give you a bit of first hand info.... the bolt holding the linkage to the frame feels like it's welded in place. I kid you not, I thought I was SOL when trying to remove that bolt. Here's the trick to keeping them in place..... When you are removing that bolt (which can be real fun all by itself), just keep the bone in place and pull the bolt from it. This will keep the sleeve pressed in place without any problems. If you rush, and just try to pull the bone off with the bolt still inside it, you WILL remove the sleeve and drop a few bearings. Again, that's what happens when you rush. I took my time removing it the first time, but when installing the new bones, I assumed it was a reverse order thing and mounted them to the linkage before mounting the frame, which was opposite of the directions. Well, as my previous post mentioned, I had some issues with fit and couldn't get the bones bolted to the frame, so I decided to remove them from the linkage and mount them to the frame first. Well when I did, I rushed, and didn't think about the sleeve. I just pulled the bone away from the linkage with the bolt still inserted and as mentioned, the sleeve slid part way out which dropped some bearings. I repeat, if you just keep the bone against the linkage while you remove the long bolt, you will have absolutely no problems with the needle bearings. I guess I should also mention that it's a good idea to have both bones lined up on the linkage before reinserting the long bolt. The bones will keep the sleeve in place. Wow, that was long winded.
 

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Medic1210, thanks for the heads up! I'll be lowering mine as soon as the bones are recieved. Thanks again. :bigthumbsup:
 

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No problem. Actually, repacking the bearings is a very simple deal. I realized after removing the linkage that I could have probably done it while it was mounted on the bike had I just pulled back on the sleeve. As it was, the sleeve was still over part of the bearings, keeping the bearing from seating back in the groove. A good coat of bearing grease will keep them in place up top, and the sleeve will slide right back into place. I had just never messed with needle bearings before, so I had to remove the linkage so I could see what I was doing. Removing the linkage was not fun at all, so if you rush like I did, I would suggest you try real hard to pack the bearings with the linkage mounted to the bike before trying to remove it.
 

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LOL Medic1210,

Those bolts were NO MATCH for my 1/2 inch knuckle buster!

The top bolt was the one that sent me looking for my mommy when my pinky got between the 1/2 inch knuckle buster and the concrete. When it let loose, me pinky got it. Turned all black and swollen.

Didn't hurt anymore after it went numb so I finished up and went for a beer... :bigthumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well just wanted to say thanks for the advice from everyone and also thanks for the bones Jason they were delivered as promised.. I received them at 4:00pm and 1 hour and 45 minutes later including clean up and showing off to my wife and neighbor they are on and the silver beauty is just how us latins like it, long and lowww. I must either be stronger then i thought i was (5'10 150lbs no muskles :D) Or my bolts were not as torqued as the rest of yours. I used a 14mm, 17mm, 18,mm and 3/4 inch ratchet box end wrenches. loosened the bolts while it was on the ground and no problems at all. Thanks again
 

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Latinrascal said:
I must either be stronger then i thought i was (5'10 150lbs no muskles :D) Or my bolts were not as torqued as the rest of yours.Â
The more I hear about how easy everybody else's bolts were to remove, as well as the way the threads on one of my bolts actually sheared, leads me to believe my bolts were actually seized. Maybe this was due to corrosion from riding near the ocean one day, but I would think that was not the case.... If it was, I would hate to see the bolts of those of us that actually live at the beach.
 
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