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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting my lowering bones tomorrow and hopefully bring everything I got so far to begin my mods.
My mechanic does not suggest lowering due to changes in handling and cornering. He also suggested waiting a little longer (1000 miles at least) before I lower the bike.
I would like to hear from you guys on this matter.
Thanks!
H
 

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when you lower your 9 that is all you are doing is lowering it you do nothing to the ride or handle of it. The bigest issues you will have or could have is drageing your pegs cornering and maybe pipes depending on which ones you have and how hard you lean into a corner and bottoming out on dips and big bumps in the road!! In my honest opinion it dose NOTHING to the why it handles!! good luck bro!!:bigthumbsup:
 

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What to espect when lowering the bike 3"

If u drop it 3" the bike will get heavier at slow speed turns, under heavy acceleration you will have less weight in the front, this bike is set up lower in the front from factory, under hard cornering the bike will tend to not want to lean as easy do to the lower center gravity, when riding on bad roads at slow peed you will feel the bike unstable do to the low center gravity, you will scrape a lot, you will notice more- all of this simptoms even more when tires are worn out, i have 30k in my bike and i have riden in every situation posible.

2.25 is the best set up for this bike...... 2.75 is the lowest you will want to go....... 3" is the coolest set up for the 109, hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks to all!!!! I'm going to lower 2" as I planned! I know lowering more will look even nicer but I got make sure to leave enough room when riding with my girl.
I really appreciate you guys taking the time to help me!
BTW... GhostM109, imagine that baby of yours with all that chrome and slammed?Go for it brother!
Regards to all!
H
 

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No problems lowered 2", or slightly more since it's the Yana Shiki bones. If you want to get your cornering clearance back as far as the pegs go, remove them and put two small bolts on the back of them where they contact the base. This tilts them up and not only gives you back the clearance, it also makes it more comfortable for your feet.

I think lowering it adds to the stability of the bike. I've locked up both front and back on mine and it didn't high side on me, so that made me feel confident about the stability of it.
 

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No problems lowered 2", or slightly more since it's the Yana Shiki bones. If you want to get your cornering clearance back as far as the pegs go, remove them and put two small bolts on the back of them where they contact the base. This tilts them up and not only gives you back the clearance, it also makes it more comfortable for your feet.

I think lowering it adds to the stability of the bike. I've locked up both front and back on mine and it didn't high side on me, so that made me feel confident about the stability of it.
Which brand of bones gives you exactly what it says?
 

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Which brand of bones gives you exactly what it says?
the 2" yana shiki bones have been reported to lower the bike more than the 2.25" bones that are offered by DLP. you really can't go wrong with either of the two since the difference will be very slight and 2" and 2.25" bones are the most common.
really big guys (over 280#) should go with the 1.5" bones just to be on the safe side in order to avoid bottoming out, especially when riding 2 up.

just be sure to grind down the bolts underneath the fender to avoid them digging into your rear tire in case you should bottom out.

you can also stiffen up the shock to a 6 or 7 setting in case you start to bottom out.

but i think you will be fine without having to do that. :bigthumbsup:
 

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Which brand of bones gives you exactly what it says?
It seems like just about all of them other than the 2" bones. I'm not sure if the 2" that DLP sells under their Cycle House brand lower it 2" or if they are repackaged Yana Shiki bones. Like the Yana Shiki bones, the DLP 2" bones don't use a bushing so they are visually identical. You also have the Morton, Baron and one other company that make 2" bones, but they look identical to each other and I suspect they may be the same. I don't know if they drop it an actual 2" or not.

I run mine with the shock set on #2 since I mostly ride one up now, and it will still bottom on a really big dip in the road. It doesn't hurt anything as long as you grind the bolts off above the tire, but it does lower it that much. I'd guess it's close to 2.5" lower.
 

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Doing some homework on this while waiting the delivery of my M109. Really wanna drop it to the ground but don't wanna limit handling and terrain travel. I am curious if anyone ever used threaded DOM tubing and heim joints to make them adjustable? Or do these have to be laterally rigid for handling?
 

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It seems like just about all of them other than the 2" bones. I'm not sure if the 2" that DLP sells under their Cycle House brand lower it 2" or if they are repackaged Yana Shiki bones. Like the Yana Shiki bones, the DLP 2" bones don't use a bushing so they are visually identical. You also have the Morton, Baron and one other company that make 2" bones, but they look identical to each other and I suspect they may be the same. I don't know if they drop it an actual 2" or not.

I run mine with the shock set on #2 since I mostly ride one up now, and it will still bottom on a really big dip in the road. It doesn't hurt anything as long as you grind the bolts off above the tire, but it does lower it that much. I'd guess it's close to 2.5" lower.
Thanks for the info Zoom...... I want to lower mine 2-2.5, which bones should I look at.. do you have an item number or a link?

Thanks Bro....
 
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