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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First off, thanks to Delmustator for his tutorial, but for some reason, I needed more information than his tutorial provided. I hope that the combination of both of our tutorials answers any questions that you could think of during the install. Here Goes:



This is my bike before starting the bones install. Note the position of the rim and the trim piece above.



Start by removing the skid plate under the bike before jacking. I know that some say that it doesn't need to be removed, but I noticed that the bike sat much more solidly on the jack without the piece on as it is slightly rounded and narrower which made the bike less stable....which made me nervous.



The side cover comes off first. It has 2 push in connectors on back and a third that the upper trim attaches to. pull gently until the bottom two release and then push in to release the top one. See picture below.



the back of the sidecover.



A picture of the mounting points for the sidecover. Note that I also removed the trim bolt in preparation to remove the upper side trim.



I removed the side trim which has the same push-in connectors. At the top you will see a single special connector. Take a small allen key and push the center portion down and this connector will come apart. Here is a pic of the special connector beside the hole it was in.



Set the side trim on top so you dont have to disconnect the seat release cable.



The chrome drive cover needs to come off, and is held by 2 remaining allen bolts. Remove and set aside. (the 3rd upper trim bolt was already removed in the previous step)



The side cover bracket needs to come off. 2 bolts come out and set aside. Good idea to keep all the bolts with the respective parts, so you don't get confused as to which bolts go where.



Next, you have to take off the "resistor thingie" (this is offical lingo for this part:joke:) Note the 2 connectors which have push in tabs to separate them.



Need to remove the "resistor thingie" bracket. Set aside.



Here are the exposed bones. As Delmustator mentioned, remove the bones in this order.



I had real trouble with removing the bolt on the right side bone. I ended up using a ratchet on the far side, a box wrench on the near side and a hammer to give the ratchet a few whacks to unseize this bolt. Be careful not to round off the bolt!!!

Also, note the direction of the remaining bolts, if the shock blocks their removal, try moving the jack farther forward. It will be tight, but they should come out.



A picture of the stock bone beside my cycle house 2 1/4 bones. Thanks DLP! (Shameless Plug...) Don't be alarmed if they are almost the same length, Kyrider assured me that this was normal through a quick reply to my post, and I stopped worrying that they had sent me the wrong ones.



A picture of the bones installed. Be sure to use a good quality grease before installing the original metal sleeve that just slides out of the old bones very easily.



Here is a picture of the bones installed. From here, all you have to do is reverse the disassembly procedure to get everything back together.

Note: I also used a trolley/floor jack under the rear wheel to raise/lower the wheel which will align the shock with the bolt hole and allow for easy bolt reinstallation.



Here's a picture of the finished bike. It looks much better and meaner!! The seat is noticably lower to sit on.

I did use a couple of pieces of wood under the rear wheel to allow for jack removal, and then rolled the bike off the wood. I think my jack is low enough that it isn't a problem though, but I haven't checked yet.

Hope this helps you with the install of your bones. Good Luck!!!
 

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seems easy enough. Id be interested to hear how different the ride and cornering have been affected, good or bad. Great post!:congrats:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I dont recall having to remove the shock?
I wished there was some way to avoid that step. Trust me, I moved the shock left, right, up, down to try and free the bolt without removal, but it was not to be. Perhaps having the motorcycle jack situated further forward would have assisted, but at the risk of an out of balance situation I guess. I would love input from others on that subject.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
seems easy enough. Id be interested to hear how different the ride and cornering have been affected, good or bad. Great post!:congrats:
I have noticed no change in handling or cornering characteristics.:a18: I do not scrape pegs during regular driving, but perhaps someone coming from a sportbike background and taking corners very aggressively would find any lowering treatment to be a problem.
 

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I wished there was some way to avoid that step. Trust me, I moved the shock left, right, up, down to try and free the bolt without removal, but it was not to be. Perhaps having the motorcycle jack situated further forward would have assisted, but at the risk of an out of balance situation I guess. I would love input from others on that subject.
I just lowered mine on Friday and wished this was up and running. Delmustator tutorial was pretty much right on except that this tutorial had more pics. We didn't remove the shock but it was tricky to get that third bolt off. We basically removed the jack and held the bike steady as one removed the bolt. A little different but it did the job!

Thanks for your hard work on this how-to :a18: !!!
 

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to get the shock to line up with the new bones just stack a couple 2x8s or so under the rear tire. slowly lower bike putting upward pressure on the rear tire. the bolt will line up and slide right in.
you will scrape regularly at 2.75...took mine off and reinstalled stockers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just lowered mine on Friday and wished this was up and running. Delmustator tutorial was pretty much right on except that this tutorial had more pics. We didn't remove the shock but it was tricky to get that third bolt off. We basically removed the jack and held the bike steady as one removed the bolt. A little different but it did the job!

Thanks for your hard work on this how-to :a18: !!!
That's a great idea ! It's all about the easiest way possible to get the job done. I didn't have any helpers for most of the job, so holding the bike steady would have been an issue for me
 

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That's a great idea ! It's all about the easiest way possible to get the job done. I didn't have any helpers for most of the job, so holding the bike steady would have been an issue for me
Ya! Once it was all said and done I was thinking how much of a pain in the a$$ it would've been to have tried to do this myself.
 

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I must admit...the looks are great with 2.25 bones , but it does rip the hell out of the heals on my boots and my pegs are as good as worn away now....if it wasnt for the scraping and worn out boot souls id give 2,25 100% ...but the sparks im leaving around our UK round abouts are getting outa hand now!! ???


 

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just did mine. only went 1.5 inch and it looks great. very easy install. took about 20 minutes. :bigthumbsup:
 

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Good write up but you do not need to remove the shock. I have done about 8 sets of these now. You put 2 boards under the rear tire and let the jack down and it releases pressure on bolts. You have to play with it sometimes but I have no problems. From bringing the bike in, putting it on the lift and getting the tools to the bike back off the lift and tools put away in 40 minutes.
BigPapa knows the 9 inside and out! He's done a lot of work on mine and has a vast knowledge of this steed!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Tell me how you got the bolts out without removing the shock. I am curious that maybe my jack was too far to the rear??

I will modify the install instructions to reflect this , if you can clarify what worked for you.

thanks
 

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CanadianM109R, great write and pictures bro! :bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:

I've had mine on and off a few times and never removed the shock either. Maybe I put my jack a little further forward. I usually break the bolts loose with the bike on the ground so I don't worry about it moving. I then jack it up and then lower it until the rear tire is just touching the ground, then remove the bolts. Having the rear tire on the ground takes the pressure off the bolts. I've also left the tire off the ground and placed a 2x4 under it that I could move up and down with my foot (or have my wife do it) while I pull the bolts out.

Same thing putting them back in, I adjust the bike height to get the holes to line up.

It's probably a little easier on mine with my single exhaust too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thanks, zoom and bigpapa. I have changed the instructions to reflect your input on jack placement. :bigthumbsup:
 

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I DO APRECIATE YOUR EFFORT SHOWING US THE JOB NICE CLEAR PICTURES THANKS ALOT :bigthumbsup:
 

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Excellent additional tutorial :bigthumbsup:

As for the shock, I never remove it, it's just a matter of jack placement. Then find that sweet spot by raising or lowering the bike on the jack and the shock goes on/off with ease.

Note: I have found inconsistencies when it comes to the bolts. Some have been snug while others required a jack hammer to get loose. I think I pulled my left nut muscle on one once..
 
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