Loose clutch hub nut problem in the earlier M109R's.....
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I don't think that there was any designation to it. My 08 backed off at 1300 miles. I believe there was one more 08 but as far as I know I don't think anybody with an 09 has chimed in with a problem. I could be wrong though.
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No! there ain't nothing to agree on it is NOT a serviceable part you are to REPLACE the part. I would NEVER chance it.
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1,264 Posts
Not that I totally disagree with you T-bone, but the factory didn't quite get the job done either. The guy from the UK that changed the wavy spring washer said something about proper torque specs for the nut. Other than that it is quite easy to figure it out, after all it is the threads that determine the torque settings. I may have to look that up when I get to the shop. Proper torque and quality thread locker should be a real fix for that. Not that the replacement part isn't.:bigthumbsup:
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548 Posts
Originally Posted by T-Bone©®™ 
No! there ain't nothing to agree on it is NOT a serviceable part you are to REPLACE the part. I would NEVER chance it.
Hey T-Bone I have a question...
If the part is not serviceable and gets replaced, won't the new part
need to be torqued down to some sort of spec.?
I'm not that familar with the Tube Nut and how it is held in place, LOL or not held in place for some.
Just wondering?
Jeff / Foo
No! there ain't nothing to agree on it is NOT a serviceable part you are to REPLACE the part. I would NEVER chance it.
Hey T-Bone I have a question...
If the part is not serviceable and gets replaced, won't the new part
need to be torqued down to some sort of spec.?
I'm not that familar with the Tube Nut and how it is held in place, LOL or not held in place for some.
Just wondering?
Jeff / Foo
nut should have a torque value. the way second clanks probably loosens everything up. 9 a great rideing bike but tranny ia junk. think they could get it right bye now. harley junk shifts better. guesss like they say nothing like a honda lol. no i'm glad to have my 9 rides great
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1,264 Posts
What T-Bone is saying is that you can not buy the tube nut from suzuki, you have to buy the whole hub. What i am saying is that In my opinion you should be able to put the nut back on and loctite and torque properly and it should be no different from a new hub. And yes this is just my opinion and YMMV.
I've seen a recent post about torquing it to 85 lb/ft. I don't know how that was determined, or if someone had a dealer do it and that's what they did. Most dealers will replace the entire hub per Suzuki's recommendations, but I've seen at least one that just tightened the nut.
Myself, if mine loosened I'd lock tite it and tighten it down. That's what they should have done to begin with. The only nut or bolt I won't retighten are those that are made as torque to yield bolts.
Myself, if mine loosened I'd lock tite it and tighten it down. That's what they should have done to begin with. The only nut or bolt I won't retighten are those that are made as torque to yield bolts.
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203 Posts
Tube Nut
Hello:
I have an 07, the Tubular Nut backed off at 3000 miles. I was lucky I was stopped at a red light.
It took an Act of Congress to get the information out of Suzuki.
Torque is 100 lb/ft
There is a Honda Socket / Spanner for the VTX that works.
Part Number:
07910-4630100
Cost: $55.75
Use Red Loctite
We made a wooden jig and torqued it off the bike.
Suzuki states that the Basket is non serviceable that's a crock. They changed the basket in 08. They added additional holes for lubrication. They did this for the shutter problem not the nut problem. The only time I had the shutter issue was when I started up and got in a hurry and didn't let it get a little oil in the clutch. If you don't have the shutter and there is no damage to the basket save yourself a couple of hundred dollars. Get the tool and use locktite it's better than what is coming from the factory.
I went to Platinum Spectro 20-50 ( their full synthetic ) on advice from a Bike Mech who has been in the business for 40 years. The shifting issues went away. It's Spectro all the way. It is easy for me to get Spectro they're in state for me (Connecticut)
Oh!, I now practice the Nine Lean religiously.
Ride Safe!!!
Hello:
I have an 07, the Tubular Nut backed off at 3000 miles. I was lucky I was stopped at a red light.
It took an Act of Congress to get the information out of Suzuki.
Torque is 100 lb/ft
There is a Honda Socket / Spanner for the VTX that works.
Part Number:
07910-4630100
Cost: $55.75
Use Red Loctite
We made a wooden jig and torqued it off the bike.
Suzuki states that the Basket is non serviceable that's a crock. They changed the basket in 08. They added additional holes for lubrication. They did this for the shutter problem not the nut problem. The only time I had the shutter issue was when I started up and got in a hurry and didn't let it get a little oil in the clutch. If you don't have the shutter and there is no damage to the basket save yourself a couple of hundred dollars. Get the tool and use locktite it's better than what is coming from the factory.
I went to Platinum Spectro 20-50 ( their full synthetic ) on advice from a Bike Mech who has been in the business for 40 years. The shifting issues went away. It's Spectro all the way. It is easy for me to get Spectro they're in state for me (Connecticut)
Oh!, I now practice the Nine Lean religiously.
Ride Safe!!!
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203 Posts
Tubular Nut
Hello:
What the Tubular Nut does is attach the primary gear to what ends up being the Basket Assembly.
All we did is make a simple wooden jig that allowed us to hold the basket from turning. You can come up with a dozen ways of doing it. You just need some means of holding the basket enough to put a 100 lb/ft to it. We didn't want to put the Basket into the vice without protecting it.
I would show you a picture, however, it ended up as kindling this last winter.
Ride Safe!!!
Hello:
What the Tubular Nut does is attach the primary gear to what ends up being the Basket Assembly.
All we did is make a simple wooden jig that allowed us to hold the basket from turning. You can come up with a dozen ways of doing it. You just need some means of holding the basket enough to put a 100 lb/ft to it. We didn't want to put the Basket into the vice without protecting it.
I would show you a picture, however, it ended up as kindling this last winter.
Ride Safe!!!
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2,728 Posts
I didn't know they changed the basket in 08. Every theory I've read about the lack of oil says that the holes in the basket let oil out not in. Thus they didn't feel more holes would help the problem, because it doesn't get more oil in.
Is there a new basket part#, are you certain they changed the design of the basket. It is possible that is more oil gets out, more would be pulled. Who knows.
Thanks
Is there a new basket part#, are you certain they changed the design of the basket. It is possible that is more oil gets out, more would be pulled. Who knows.
Thanks
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203 Posts
Tubular Nut
When I spoke with the Suzuki Rep in California he said that was the only change. I had asked if the new basket had some means of mechanically locking the tubular nut. The answer was no. After he gave me the Torque Spec and the Honda Part Number I was a happy camper and went away.
From reading the forum I know individuals have drilled several holes themselves. If you think about it, adding the holes will improve oil flow through the assembly. Isn't that the whole purpose of the exercise.
For the people drilling their own holes you could have too much of a good thing. If they are not careful or unlucky they could cause some serious problems. There has to be a sweet spot between the two cases. I have got to believe ( I would hope ) that the Suzuki Engineers looked at the turbulent and laminar fluid flow conditions of the Clutch Assembly and made the right choice. By that I mean the right number of holes, the right location for the holes and the right diameter for the holes.
That said, I still believe that if it ain't broke don't fix it.
If I where you and had your concerns about the clutch assembly and the basket, I would spend the money on a Cycle House Clutch, the MTC Springs and the EVO Star. If you don't have the shutter buying a primary gear assembly won't do anything for you.
Ride Safe!!!
I'm coming up on 7000 miles, we torqued it at 3000 miles, with no problems. I have heard both arguments about the holes. I haven't seen the engineering specifications on it.
When I spoke with the Suzuki Rep in California he said that was the only change. I had asked if the new basket had some means of mechanically locking the tubular nut. The answer was no. After he gave me the Torque Spec and the Honda Part Number I was a happy camper and went away.
From reading the forum I know individuals have drilled several holes themselves. If you think about it, adding the holes will improve oil flow through the assembly. Isn't that the whole purpose of the exercise.
For the people drilling their own holes you could have too much of a good thing. If they are not careful or unlucky they could cause some serious problems. There has to be a sweet spot between the two cases. I have got to believe ( I would hope ) that the Suzuki Engineers looked at the turbulent and laminar fluid flow conditions of the Clutch Assembly and made the right choice. By that I mean the right number of holes, the right location for the holes and the right diameter for the holes.
That said, I still believe that if it ain't broke don't fix it.
If I where you and had your concerns about the clutch assembly and the basket, I would spend the money on a Cycle House Clutch, the MTC Springs and the EVO Star. If you don't have the shutter buying a primary gear assembly won't do anything for you.
Ride Safe!!!
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4,699 Posts
No... Unless you want to. and "if" you can get that without buying the entire assembly. I have never heard of any one replacing anything when doing this(except clutch plates). You don't even need a "special" tool to do it. When we worked on Hinks at last year's meet they just used a regular socket.. (Sorry I can't remember the size...I'm thinking 32mm:dontknow
It doesn't take a long amount of time to do this job and you don't even need to drain the oil... While you have the clutch disks out, inspect them and you might want to soak them in oil over night since they are already out. But if you want, you can put it directly back together. There should be a how-to on here somewhere. And there's also a thread about re-installing the clutch disks and the differences between the offset and aligned installation.:bigthumbsup:
It doesn't take a long amount of time to do this job and you don't even need to drain the oil... While you have the clutch disks out, inspect them and you might want to soak them in oil over night since they are already out. But if you want, you can put it directly back together. There should be a how-to on here somewhere. And there's also a thread about re-installing the clutch disks and the differences between the offset and aligned installation.:bigthumbsup:1 - 20 of 63 Posts
