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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the opportunity to buy a 2006 M109R with 24,000 miles here in Toronto (not sure how many riders up this way). My worries are as follows; is that mileage high, is there any way of finding out if there has been any clutch/tube nut issues and is there any other things I should be aware of buying a used 109?
I am upgrading from a C50 and really like the bike but the power just isn't there for me. Have a bunch of questions but dont want to bore you folks with my jitters.
 

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Biggest issue to check before buying is that the bike will stay in 2nd gear without popping back back into neutral.
Take it for a test drive and when you shift from 1st to 2nd really get on the throttle and see if it pops out of gear or not.
Do that at least 3 times just to be sure.
If its popping out of second gear and back into neutral you would be looking at around $3000 - $4000 transmission repair depending on where you have the work done.

Also if it has not been done yet, you will certainly need to replace at least the front 2 motor mounts.
This is easy to do but for sure they will totally shot at that milage is they have not been changed already.
I was on working a customers bike today who only had 11,000 miles and his front motor mounts where already worn out.

Also have a look at the front forks to make sure they are not leaking. It could be time for new fork seals as well if they have not been changed. This is also not a hard job to do but it does require a few special tools and some time to do, so its certainly a bargaining chip to get the purchase price down a bit if they need to be done.

See if you can find out when the coolant system has last been completely flushed and refilled.
Good chance its long overdue.
Same goes for both the front and back brake fluid.

Other than that just look for the obvious things you would look for when buying any bike.

If its at all possible its always a good idea to drain the oil before you purchase the bike, that way you can check to see if there is a large amount of metal on the drain plug magnets and you can also strain the used oil through a white t-shirt (into a bucket) so you can examine the oil for contaminates. (This can't aways be accomplished, but is a good idea if you can make it happen.
You will want to do an oil & filter change as soon as you buy it anyway, so may as well use this event to help diagnose the condition of the bike before you fork over the big bucks to buy the bike. :)

If the bike checks out and does not have any substantial issues, I would not heisitate to purchase a 2006 with that milage on it. Price point should be around $4500 on the low end to $6000 on the high end if the bike is in good condition and depending on how its modded.

BCS
LGB/FJB
 

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2007 Candy Sonoma Red
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Welcome to the forum. BCS described everything to check out much better than I could have, so if you follow that you should be fine. The mileage is not an issue at all if it's had normal maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Biggest issue to check before buying is that the bike will stay in 2nd gear without popping back back into neutral.
Take it for a test drive and when you shift from 1st to 2nd really get on the throttle and see if it pops out of gear or not.
Do that at least 3 times just to be sure.
If its popping out of second gear and back into neutral you would be looking at around $3000 - $4000 transmission repair depending on where you have the work done.

Also if it has not been done yet, you will certainly need to replace at least the front 2 motor mounts.
This is easy to do but for sure they will totally shot at that milage is they have not been changed already.
I was on working a customers bike today who only had 11,000 miles and his front motor mounts where already worn out.

Also have a look at the front forks to make sure they are not leaking. It could be time for new fork seals as well if they have not been changed. This is also not a hard job to do but it does require a few special tools and some time to do, so its certainly a bargaining chip to get the purchase price down a bit if they need to be done.

See if you can find out when the coolant system has last been completely flushed and refilled.
Good chance its long overdue.
Same goes for both the front and back brake fluid.

Other than that just look for the obvious things you would look for when buying any bike.

If its at all possible its always a good idea to drain the oil before you purchase the bike, that way you can check to see if there is a large amount of metal on the drain plug magnets and you can also strain the used oil through a white t-shirt (into a bucket) so you can examine the oil for contaminates. (This can't aways be accomplished, but is a good idea if you can make it happen.
You will want to do an oil & filter change as soon as you buy it anyway, so may as well use this event to help diagnose the condition of the bike before you fork over the big bucks to buy the bike. :)

If the bike checks out and does not have any substantial issues, I would not heisitate to purchase a 2006 with that milage on it. Price point should be around $4500 on the low end to $6000 on the high end if the bike is in good condition and depending on how its modded.

BCS
LGB/FJB
I truly appreciate the time you gave to answer my question. Any way you want to travel to Toronto with me to take a look at it with me? Haha.
All joking aside....thanks. I'll do my best when I go look at it next weekend.
 

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I truly appreciate the time you gave to answer my question. Any way you want to travel to Toronto with me to take a look at it with me? Haha.
All joking aside....thanks. I'll do my best when I go look at it next weekend.
I looks it will be a long week for you! Good luck with
the purchase, and welcome to the forum.. Cheers 🍻
 

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2008 M109R, 2016 FJR1300, 1999 VMax
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Hello, and welcome to the forum!

There are 2 more issues to check on the 2006 model.
  1. There is a fuel rail recall for the 2006 models. Some of them developed leaks and posed a fire hazard. If it has been performed, there will be a punch mark next to the VIN.
  2. 2006, 2007, and some 2008 bikes had an issue with the brake rotors. The rivets between the two sections of the rear rotors sometimes became loose, causing an unsafe condition. If you grab the outside section of the rear rotor and try to move it front to back, there should be minimal movement. Note: I am not recommending the following, but some owners whio have had that issue have "resolved" it by placing the rotor in a vice with an appropriately sized ball bearing on each side of each rivet (one at a time), and have tightened the vice to press the rivets and take up the looseness.
You must accept full responsibility for doing so if you decide to try pressing the brake rotor rivets and experience any problems or failures.

I mention the brake rotor "hack" because you say you are in Toronto, but state the bike has 24,000 miles. If it is a US distributed bike in Canada, Canadian dealers will not honor the US warranty.

Good luck, and best wishes!
 
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